Hi All,
I wanted to share this project with you all at Weaton Labs. I live in VT at an intentional community called the Center for Transformational Practice. Its a small community that tries to meld spirituality and meditation with sustainability. There are a lot of gardeners in the area that are friends of the community and as you may have noticed there are as many opinions on what the best gardening techniques are as there are gardeners. Although I escaped long ago to become a carpenter I do have a background in Chemistry, so I decided to try to take the opinion out of two gardening techniques by using scientific design to do a controlled experiment. I wanted to test both Hugelkultur as well as no-till gardening.
I set up an experimental design so that two variables can be tested using only 4 trials (see the attached pdf). The beds all have the same soil mixture and amount. The soil is 50% finished compost and 50% sandy loam. Two of the beds have a mulch cover that consists of small branches and leaves (chipped) from a medium sized Box Alder. The mulch is about half green leaves and half ramial wood chips and is already composting at the soil surface. Beds B and D are no-till, mulch covered. The two right hand beds (beds C and D) have about a foot of box alder wood under them. I have more pics of this if you are interested. I've been taking a lot of pics of the plants progress over the Summer.
All the plants are the same variety and are placed in the same relative position in each bed. I have been watering the beds as needed, but if I add 4 gallons to Bed A, I'll also add 4 to bed C etc. So far the mulch covered beds only have needed about 1/2 the water of the bare dirt beds. I weighed the mulch and made sure that beds B and D had the same amount of mulch, and this fall I'm going to till in an equal mass of finished compost to beds A and C. I've also been weighing the weeds on each bed. Not too many weeds so far. I've also been taking height measurements each week, and will plot those out as growth rate for each bed. I should have gotten the soil in each bed tested at the beginning but I am not into becoming rich so I don't have that much money.
It might sound crazy to test it this way, but the beauty of this design is that for each parameter being tested, (like pounds of tomatoes for instance), you get two trials. Subtracting the weight of tomatoes of Bed C from bed A is one test for the hugel variable as well as subtracting the lbs of tomatoes of bed B from bed D. The no-till variable will have two trials as well. By Subtracting Bed C from Bed D and bed A from bed B both will give data that should be due only to whether or not it is no-till(mulch covered) or tilled (bare dirt).
So far the best bed is bed D (hugel and no-till) followed by bed B(regular and no-till) followed by bed C (hugel tilled), and bed A (regular tilled)
A few surprising results however. The tomatoes and peppers did a little better in the bare dirt beds at first. I think it was because of the hotter soil. We are in VT and the soil tends to be cooler in the early summer.
I don't want to bore you with all the gory details, but its been a lot of fun. I hope other people want to do similar experiments testing hugelkulture and no-till. I have had a lot of great results with both techniques over the years, but since it wasn't a controlled experiment it can't be said with certainty that it was the wood underneath that had the effect unless you had another bed just like it without wood underneath to compare it to.
So let me know what you think and if you are interested in replicating this experiment or modifying it or if you have done anything similar in the past. I would love to hear about it. It would be cool to see some solid evidence that goes beyond opinion.
Download Attachment
I wanted to share this project with you all at Weaton Labs. I live in VT at an intentional community called the Center for Transformational Practice. Its a small community that tries to meld spirituality and meditation with sustainability. There are a lot of gardeners in the area that are friends of the community and as you may have noticed there are as many opinions on what the best gardening techniques are as there are gardeners. Although I escaped long ago to become a carpenter I do have a background in Chemistry, so I decided to try to take the opinion out of two gardening techniques by using scientific design to do a controlled experiment. I wanted to test both Hugelkultur as well as no-till gardening.
I set up an experimental design so that two variables can be tested using only 4 trials (see the attached pdf). The beds all have the same soil mixture and amount. The soil is 50% finished compost and 50% sandy loam. Two of the beds have a mulch cover that consists of small branches and leaves (chipped) from a medium sized Box Alder. The mulch is about half green leaves and half ramial wood chips and is already composting at the soil surface. Beds B and D are no-till, mulch covered. The two right hand beds (beds C and D) have about a foot of box alder wood under them. I have more pics of this if you are interested. I've been taking a lot of pics of the plants progress over the Summer.
All the plants are the same variety and are placed in the same relative position in each bed. I have been watering the beds as needed, but if I add 4 gallons to Bed A, I'll also add 4 to bed C etc. So far the mulch covered beds only have needed about 1/2 the water of the bare dirt beds. I weighed the mulch and made sure that beds B and D had the same amount of mulch, and this fall I'm going to till in an equal mass of finished compost to beds A and C. I've also been weighing the weeds on each bed. Not too many weeds so far. I've also been taking height measurements each week, and will plot those out as growth rate for each bed. I should have gotten the soil in each bed tested at the beginning but I am not into becoming rich so I don't have that much money.
It might sound crazy to test it this way, but the beauty of this design is that for each parameter being tested, (like pounds of tomatoes for instance), you get two trials. Subtracting the weight of tomatoes of Bed C from bed A is one test for the hugel variable as well as subtracting the lbs of tomatoes of bed B from bed D. The no-till variable will have two trials as well. By Subtracting Bed C from Bed D and bed A from bed B both will give data that should be due only to whether or not it is no-till(mulch covered) or tilled (bare dirt).
So far the best bed is bed D (hugel and no-till) followed by bed B(regular and no-till) followed by bed C (hugel tilled), and bed A (regular tilled)
A few surprising results however. The tomatoes and peppers did a little better in the bare dirt beds at first. I think it was because of the hotter soil. We are in VT and the soil tends to be cooler in the early summer.
I don't want to bore you with all the gory details, but its been a lot of fun. I hope other people want to do similar experiments testing hugelkulture and no-till. I have had a lot of great results with both techniques over the years, but since it wasn't a controlled experiment it can't be said with certainty that it was the wood underneath that had the effect unless you had another bed just like it without wood underneath to compare it to.
So let me know what you think and if you are interested in replicating this experiment or modifying it or if you have done anything similar in the past. I would love to hear about it. It would be cool to see some solid evidence that goes beyond opinion.
Filename: Exp-Garden-diagram-at-CTP-2016.pdf
Description: Experimental design can be seen in the garden plot plan
File size:
55 Kbytes
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