James, I am assuming the property is the entire picture. I don't see you say otherwise. It would also help to know the climate and soil type.
Step one in my opinion is to understand your use of the land. Essentially what you see it looking like in ten years or something. If you are getting only a small amount of rain (which seems odd in England unless you are in Essex) I would look at what the mature landscape looks like and recapitulate it to a degree. If there are no ponds, is it because of sandy soil? Is it because of evaporative loss? This will dictate how your water features will look.
I would try to find out as much about your soil as possible (looks like depleted production agriculture from overhead, but underneath??) from geologic data in your area. That will determine if you have clay, at what depth, and then your water features need to match your access and building plan.
Check out
Sepp Holzers work in Montana, you can see work on a gentle grade. Then read all you can about it, because it is not esoteric, you just have to see it as you stand on it. I like the iterative approach of putting in higher features first that
feed the lower ones, that is mostly what I have done. That also allows you to scale a little better- we had a tropical storm and the relief area never got damp, so I went a little overboard. Your weather may be so mild as to not require much additional capacity.
If you are looking at doing it all at once, you can overlay a dam on the high part of the topo map and then see where the offload will go, then add a
pond there, and a channel riparian area connecting them, and so on. Gentle grades should give opportunity for lots of possibilities.
I wouldn't worry about 20", Gabe Brown does with less. Sepp's
Extramadura surely has far less precipitation. But you do that kind of
project, you need to know what is underneath...