Jose Manuel Bonilla

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since Feb 02, 2012
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Recent posts by Jose Manuel Bonilla

Thank you very much, Satamax!

The permies one was the one I was looking for. But the Donkey's one looks great too!

Maybe this summer we'll have the opportunity to try one of this designs.

Have a nice day!
6 years ago
Hello all!

My RMH is working fine, and we're thinking now on makins some more in a friend's big house. They'd like the idea to have a RMH to heat water (yes, I know it's dangerous and we only want to think about it...) and I was looking for a post in wich some one uploaded his photos of a great looking RMK with a water tank after the barrel, and it seemed really well done work.

Do any of you know which I'm talking abotut? It's a pitty I forgot to bookmark it and I'm not sure if it was posted here or in some of the facebook RMH groups I'm into....

Thanks a lot and have a nice day
6 years ago
Conbgratulations Aurelio!

Waiting to read for your comments on how it works when it's fully dried!


Esperamos comentarios de cómo rula el chisme cuando esté seco

6 years ago

Jose Manuel, my Spanish friend :As usual a well laid out and planed job with much beauty and the bones for even more ! I just wanted to share with a few of your
Fans that the floor patterns seen are Real Tile and not just a piece of linoleum ! Please keep sharing with us ! Big AL !

Late Note : I have never seen a wooden rack under a doggy bed before, and am convinced that there is a story there if you want to share ! Big AL !

Oh, yes, the patterns are tiles, and In fact I had to take some of them appart, clean the bottom and re-glue them again in place, since the house's floor is not well done (no good foundations, and hummidity coming from the earth...) and they have moved and unleveled a lot since they were laid time ago... I should have token all the tiles under the stove away because maybe some of them are not well "glued" to the floor, and I'm afraid the stove could move a bit over time, but now it's too late I hope they won't

And this is somehow related to the problem we do have with "Cuca" (the little female dog you see in the pictures). She's got some kind of "mouldy" or "fongus" allergical skin affection, and it itches her a lot. She's very old and spends lots of hours in her bed, so she sweats, and hummidity being not good for her skin, I've made such a wooden rack so the bed has good air circulation from beneath. It works well, and now the cotton of her bed uses to be dry. It isolates her a bit from the floor's cold, too.

We want to make a nice litle "cave" just in the same spot you see her in the last photo (over the left side of the pillar) so she would enjoy some warmth. Just above her bed we'll have another rack for the firewood basket.
We do have a cat, too, but she's young and able to jump any place over the benches as she wants to

Late, late, note great use of old carpeting to make a great kneeler A. L.

It's an old insulative camping rug, a truly multi-purpose thing Good enough to work bent on our knees

6 years ago
Hello all!

Kitchen bench (almost) finished yet

The "pillar" is a slowly work in progress:

We do cover the thermal cob with cotton bandage in order to prevent it from collapsing or separating from flue. A foot at a time (aprox) to let it dry before adding more wet weight.

Galvanized iron preventing heat to go to the wall and the "pillar", as Allen suggested me. Thanks again folks!

Now it's cold here and we'll have to wait some days to footle more cob for the pillar, I'll keep posting as we go.

Have a nice day
6 years ago
Hello again.
First spanish, then english writing:

Vamos allá con una respuesta bilingüe
El aire aisla.. si está "encapsulado" entre otros materiales. Si tienes un gran volumen de aire en contacto con y dentro de la estufa este se irá calentando poco a poco hasta que deje de resultar eficaz como aislamiento. Si lo que haces es usar partículas de aire entre algún material ignífugo entonces no podrá pasar el calor de burbuja a burbuja, por decirlo de algún modo (explicación científica todo-a-100) y conseguirás el efecto deseado.
Puedes rellenar el espacio entre los dos bidones con arlita (el nombre que se le da en España a la perlita) "mojada" en barbotina (clay slip, pasta ligera de arcilla). La arlita es muy barata, unos 5€ el saco, y con uno o dos tendrás suficiente. La mezcla de arcilla y perlita para los "risers" de metal es más complicada de hacer porque es importante conseguir una proporción adecuada como para que una vez "evaporado" el metal del riser se mantenga en pié, pero en tu caso no tendrás ese problema así que será sencillísimo, y económico. Yo la mía la he aislado con manta cerámica, que me costó unos 35€

Por otro lado: cuidado con los morteros que utilizas en el interior de la estufa: a no ser que utilices los refractarios adecuados ser irán desintegrando con el calor, y se te puede desmoronar todo. El barro, económico, es la mejor opción. Lo digo porque ví en tus fotos algún mortero blanquecino que no sé lo que será... ten cuidado!

Me alegro de que vaya funcionando tu dragona! Ya nos irás contando.


English now ((excuse me, please, not enough time to look for the dictionary now :p )

You wont't be able to make the air isolate the heat unless it is "confined" like bubbles inside some refractary material. If you have big volumes of air next to and inside the stove, this air will get hot and will transfer heat to the outside. You can make air work for you trapping it between some refractary material, as cheap perlite is. Clay slip with perlite is somehow difficult to mix in a right way for steel risers isolation, as you want them to stand upright as time, heat and oxidation make the metal disappear, but in your case you don't have to worry about that. So it will be a very easy and cheap way to isolate your riser and burn chamber.

I'd liket to advise you against the use of non refractary mortars on your stove! I could see some whitiss mortar used on your RMH test and I wouldn't like you to have problems with it as soon as heat makes his job! Cob is easy, cheap and GREAT for that things!

By the way: happy to read your RMH test is working so far! Let us know

6 years ago
Both benches are made, kitchen one waiting to dry in order to put the finish on,

and workshop one just need some touch ups and finish.

Now just putting the thermal mass on the vertical column

There are only 2/3 of the thermal mass still, and not completely dried, but when we wake up in the morning temperatures only have fallen down 2 to 4ºC!!! (20ºC at night, 16-18 in the morning, great!!!)

It's a slow work in progress, but this winter we'll be much better at home and will have to burn far less wood, and of course, lot less somke!

You can have a look at some more photos in the Picasa Gallery

Thank you again, folks!
6 years ago
Hola Aurelio! No pongas esto en el traductor automático, que te lo explico en español

Hello Aurelio & co.

Here it comes another spaniard to help if possible (thanks to Allen who said me about the languaje problem). Not very good at english writing, you know, but at least I'll be able to say it right in spanish
I'll try to explain you in spanish what the fellow friends are talking about.
I'm doing it right here instead of using personal message just in case some other spanish speaker should be reading.

Hola Aurelio!

Un compañero que me estuvo ayudando desde aquí (Allen) me ha pedido que te cuente lo que seguramente te está pasando y que es lo mismo que me pasó a mí hasta que entre él y otros me fueron encaminando:

Una vez que tienes montada la "cámara de combustión", y llega el momento de poner el bidón exterior, comprobamos cómo la velocidad del tiro disminuye mucho, y provoca que parte del fuego y el humo vuelvan hacia atrás por la "boca" de la estufa. Yo pensaba (y supongo que tú también) que la fuerza de la "bomba" de succión que provoca el tiro interior (heat riser) junto con el enfriamiento rápido de los gases al pasar junto a las paredes del bidón bastaban para tirar con fuerza de los gases en la dirección de la salida, pero la realidad es otra, y ésto sólo funciona así si se dan ciertas condiciones que no se dan tan amenudo (cuestiones de presiones de aire que se ven afectadas por diversos factores como la dirección del viento, cercanía de tapias o tejados que modifican las corrientes de aire, etc). Así que la REALIDAD es que NECESITAS CHIMENEA para probar el sistema, y necesitas que esta chimenea suba cerca de un metro por encima de cualquier otra cosa.

La manera habitual de comprobar si la estufa en sí misma está bien hecha es conectar directamente a ella (en lugar de los tubos para los bancos) un codo o "T" y una chimenea vertical que suba por encima de cualquier obstáculo cercano (en mi caso era una tapia y un tejadillo, luego te enlazo a las fotos). Si al conectar la chimenea todo vuelve de nuevo a funcionar "como un cohete" sabrás que la estufa está bien hecha, y podrás seguir probando las conducciones horizontales tras las que tendrás que poner, una vez más, la chimenea. Si ni siquiera con ese tubo vertical funciona correctamente entonces será cuestión de la cámara de combustión y tendrás que ver cuestiones como escapes (el aire que se cuela por las rendijas entre los ladrillos es una faena) o el diseño de la zona del "embudo" para conectar con los tubos.

Allen también me pidió que te sugiera el uso de un ladrillo (o similar) para tapar parte de la boca dependiendo de la cantidad de madera que tengas quemando. Regular la entrada de aire es clave para una buena combustión y yo (que llevo sólo un mes más o menos usando la estufa, todavía en proceso de construcción) al principio no le prestaba demasiada atención a esa cuestión que resulta vital tanto para la buena quema como para el aprovechamiento del calor.

Espero que con una chimenea directa te funcione de maravilla, ya nos irás contando.

Ah, aquí puedes ver el hilo en el que yo he ido comentando la construcción de la mía, está en inglés, por supuesto, pero podrás ver las fotos del proceso. Fíjate en que todo vuelve a funcionar una vez que pongo una chimenea más alta que el tejadillo junto al que monté la estufa. Ahora va de maravilla!
my own RMH building process thread here
Un saludo desde León



Dear english-spoken friends: what I've told Aurelio is just what you said (as previously you did to me with just the same issue with my own RMH making) about the need for a chimnney and how to use a temporary one just next to the barrel to test the stove itself. As Allen asked me to do I've mentioned the use of a brick to adjust the air intake and improve the burning. Excuse me for not translate it all again to english now, but I'll do if you feel I should do it.

By the way: my own RMH it's working pretty good. It isn't yet finished, but mornings are far more confortables now at home thanks to your kind support I'll post some more photos of it soon on it's own thread
6 years ago
Thank you very much, John.

Today we'll have to mix some more batches of cob to finish the second bench and begin with the column. I do think I have some hidrocloric acid at home so I'll be able to test the clay.

But we have put lots of cob yet, and the "J" is really covered with it (I've used clay slip to stack the bricks and hold the perlite insulation) and it would be a pain to have to take it all out now (winter is here and we're in a hurry if we want to have nice warm benches for the new year). So what I would like to know is wether the sulphur inside the clay would estabilize somehow and stop going out into the air with the repeated firings... hope so!

Soon I'll post some photos of the ongoing benches.

Have a nice day!

6 years ago

In all my years as a chemist, this is the first time I've heard the phrase "phosphorus smell". Do you mean it smells like burnt matches? Or firecrackers that just went off?

I'm sorry, I'm not so good at english writing neither at chemist so I didn't explain good enough. I said "phosphorus" because we here use the same word for "matches" and I thought it was because they should be made of that...

Most of that type of odor can be ascribed to SO2, as there are various sulfur compounds used in gunpowders and matches. A lot of things, on their first firing will offgas strange smelling fumes. Generally, repeated firing cycles will reduce the amount of these compounds until there is no residue to cause the odor. If it really bothers you, take it outside to air it out. If it's not really movable, blow air through it and vent it to the outside.

It's more like firecrakers. I've asked the ceramist friends about it, they've asked a friend who knows about soil composition nearby... and they think it's because of the iron (among others) sulphide that happens to be on these clays.

I'll keep firing it and hoping it will dessapear as soon as everything burns oot and the clay get dry. I'll let you know how it goes.

Yesterday we cob-covered the flues of a complete bench and half another. Tomorrow I hope we could built the column. So far so good.

Thank yoo for your answers.
6 years ago