klemen urbanija

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since Mar 31, 2015
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Recent posts by klemen urbanija

I am from EU and althoug it is said in the movie that we banned significantly more chemicals (to be used in products) than US i am far from feeling safe.

When i go to the store it became a habbit of first reading the ingredients in the microtext at the back of the package...
Sometimes reading the front shiny part of the package and then the microtext labelling feels like a joke :-).
A year ago i checked hazelnut spread (not exactly but the title suggested very firmly that it is maid from hazelnuts). Anyway the price didnt seem right - at the back i checked the text and it said that it contains mighty 0.1 grams of hazelnuts - come on, is there even one whole hazelnut in this glass. This is almost hazelnut in traces :-).

Anyway - in stores it helps to:
-first read the back text. (Or ONLY read the back text)
-if it feels like something  to good to be true, it probably is

They replied (from official Stink" movie website) and forwarded me to vimeo.


There i was able to get it!

Hi, Jocelyn...
I tried amazon prime, netflix, google play, vudu (theirs page doesnt load at all). I just contacted them via stinkmovie website to see if there are any possibilities...  will see
Hi, people.

I tried my best to watch this movie online but aparently i am not able to view it because i am from EU... If anyone has a link to watch or to download the movie i would be very thankful...
Cheers, Klemen

jessie franks wrote:Would it be feasible to char the wood under the glass instead of using the paint? Or would that be problematic?

When i was young we put a candle under the piece of glass to make it black - then we used it to look the solar eclipse - the sun was dark reddish in color... Darkened glass (soot on top) was really totally dark and matte.... I think that could work...
I would think that charring of the wood might add some additonal flour to a dehydrated food because charred wood is not soot only but also partially charred wood.... But if there is only soot layer it might be a better option...

4 months ago

Another feature for improvement is to add a 4-inch rocket mass heater under the ramp.  Maybe there can be an 8-inch thick mass under the ramp so you can heat the mass, but it doesn't heat the air too much.   And then when the fire is out, the mass is still something like 100 degrees and keeps pushing warm air through the system.   So in the fall when you have 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night, then you get 24 hours of drying time.

In our country i don't count on longer periods of sunny weather, especially not in foggy autumn days.
If i would build a drier of a larger size, i don't like the long burning of a 4-incher to get enough heat. Our local heritages used slow and dirty burning to heat large driers overnight or even longer - this i don't like either... Maybe there could be a solution with a small batchbox and a small bell with fat wall. I would make a bell with metal fins pointing from inside the mass towards the inside of the bell. This would make a larger and a more effective ISA that could store thermal energy quicker into the thickness of the bell's walls. Emitting that energy from the outer side towards the drier would be slow because of the fat cob walls...

Burn some kilos of wood in one batch and then walk away for a day would be really convenient... If only air inlets could be closed automatically ;-)

4 months ago

I just watched it and i would like to add something.

Ii tried one similar to hot aussie drier but it didn't perform well in my place -too much morning humidity, rainfall etc... But i remembered my research about updraft and downdraft driers...

The thing i found was interesting: the air with more humidity in it is lighter than the one with less humidity (relative humidity). The gas law from chemistry explains that because at the same pressure there can only be certain amount of molecules present in the same volume. Since the molecules of water vapour are lighter than average weight of molecules in the air, the drier air is denser (or heavier per volume unit).

https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/air-density gives a simple calculation of air density:

few calculations:
at 50C and 20% density is 1,08 kg/m3
at 50C and 50% density is 1,07 kg/m3
at 50C and 70% density is 1,05 kg/m3
at 40C and 70% density is 1,10 kg/m3

The faster the airflow through the drier, the lesser is the cooling effect and the lesser is the humidifying effect - my conclusion would be that faster air flow saves it all, but it need some more solar gain surfaces to get that air faster to the appropriate temperature...

I would say that in this particular example there is not much of an information but maybe for the future projects it might come handy: humid air is lighter than dry air - contrary to obvious conclusion...

Thinking of it i can't help to think about rocket stoves with low temperature exhaust - now it looks like humidity in them helps to add upwards draft even if cooled to the temperature of the surrounding areas... But the CO2 highers the density of exhaust.

There is also an interesting point:
"Humid air containing water molecules as liquid - droplets - may be more dense than dry air or humid air containing water only as vapor.  "
I found that one here: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/molecular-mass-air-d_679.html

Pretty complex problems and with so many variables it is hard to walk safely on the edge -


4 months ago

Some years ago I was a shepherd on a mountain with milking cows and making cheese. I had an opportunity to be by the cheesemaker all the time and I did some cheese wheels then and later at home.

There have been some old wooden cheesemaking hoops and some new ones that were plastic. We were making cheese wheels 2 to 4kg in weight, up to 15 wheels per day.

Search for cheesemaking wooden hoop. Since you will work with smaller quantities go for the smallest ones. Here is a link for clarification.


Since it is simple to make you can DIY. The  wood used at our place  is maple, but ash would be a good choice too, IMO. The rope around the hoop is to tighten it to a desired size. You also need a cloth - the hoop is just for a desired shape...

Hope this helps,
5 months ago
1st Wofati microdoc

close 2nd skiddable structures.

6 months ago
You can make it round easily with bells (stratification chambers) instead of pipes for extracting heat.

One example is here:

It could be round like a cylinder or like a sphere or an egg. But some may be more difficult to build;-)
9 months ago