klemen urbanija

1. Smooth seas do not make skilled sailors. (Don't know by who)

2. Speak only if you improve silence. (Don't know by who)

3. :-)
Better have your mouth shut and appear stupid, than open it and release all doubt :-). - by Mark Twain

Jim Reiland wrote:I agree with William--great sketch!

Question: What's your seismic activity like?  

Another concern I have about the straw-clay is that it takes quite some time for the material to dry when it is exposed to air on both sides.  The general guide here is one week per inch of wall thickness, so your proposed 15 cm to 20 cm thickness might dry in as soon as 8 weeks if it could dry to both sides.

Hi.
Seismic activity is not a problem here.
I thought the drying is meant for 1inch per week from each side... I did have a concern about this, too.

At present my wall is 30cm thick. Adding 20cm extra is quite a lot for me.  Comparing the R value of 20cm lightstraw to 12cm mineral wool is quite a difference :-/.
Also the easiness of attaching it compared to Larsen trusses or similar is quite a difference, too.

Hi, William.
The tyvek functions here as vapor barrier and secondary rainscreen. Over it come wood boards to protect it from the elements - right part of sketch.

First, thanks for replies.

The weather here is so that we get about 1500mm of rain per year and about 75% of rain comes in the colder third of a year. We do get snow, temperature falls to -10C. It's southern alps, but we are not under the influence of adriatic sea.

I would make some frames to the outside of existing walls so that it would hold the insulation in place. Something similar to this system:
http://www.greenmaterials.se/steico-wall.html

But i would change the infill material with something strawlike.
I imagine that using only straw it might compress in time. But if i would add some clay slip, just to make the straw dirty  i could lessen the compression problem- i wouldnt compress that lightstraw at all. Also the "dirty" straw wouldnt be interesting to insects.
On the outside i could just put some 1x4 to hold lightstraw in place or maybe i wouldn't need to if i add some "anchorss" inside strawclay.
I added a sketch of what would it look like. The strawclay would be 15-20cm thick.

Would i even need tyvek/vapour barrier?

Hi, all.

I have an unfinished building built with fired  porous clay bricks (named porotherm here). I would like to add exterior insulation.
Is there any system to make it insulated with 12 -15 centimeters of straw? Something like that straw gets infilled inbetween the walls and some outside barrier, maybe just wood boards or something.
I saw similar insulation with blown cellulose or wood fibers and on the outside there are wood fiber boards..

Does anyone have a suggestion, idea or a working example of something like that?

Looking forward to answers,
Klemen

Beau Davidson wrote:

Webinar: Breeding Locally-Adapted, Resilient Plants: Epigenetics and Seed Saving by Alan Booker
https://permies.com/wiki/194153/epigenetics-and-seed-saving

Hi,
my 2 cents:

It says epigentics instead of epigenEtics on the picture for a new stretch goal ;-)

Have a nice day, and another daily kickstarter success!

Klemen

Beau Davidson wrote:

Klemen, how is your door-slot working?  Does it help keep temps up between a quick succession of pizzas?

Hi Beau,

I think that this addition doeant play any significant part. IMO the major role, when baking pizza, is radiant heat directly from the surface.... This addition would help with convective heat.

Btw this year i made another oven for larger baking trays ( 60x 53cm gastronom size) we were baking full size pizas lasagnas in two trays, chicken and vegetables. It performed great. But because of its inner size i didnt use barrels but it is made ( i did the plans) from stainless steel sheets.

The burner is L tube, not J tube as i needed more power with smaller diameter..

Hi,
I have been searching for ripping chains for my chainsaw.
Does anyone know of a quality supplier from Europe?

I only found this from USA and the postage is really too much....
https://www.granberg.com/product-category/uncategorized/discontinued-granberg-ripping-chain/

Any suggestion is welcomed.


Have a nice day,
Klemen

Hi, people!

I will be designing Rocket oven from sheet metal - another larger version where i can accept 65x53cm trays (GN2/1). All the details will be available on the donkey32 forum:
https://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/3844/steel-rocket-lenghtier-option-version?page=1&scrollTo=36701

Quick sketch (door are not sketched yet)


My previous (second one) lenghtier rocket oven that i made with steel drums performed very well for two years but now i need a larger one...
I do have a question regarding what burner should i use -i posted that in a donkey32 form that i posted a link just above.

Have a nice day,
Klemen

Chad Johnson wrote:Has someone tried an adjustable bell (barrel) height to control the amount of rocket?

If you have a bell the exhaust to the chimney is at the bottom. Say that the system is 6x6 inches and exhaust to the chimney is square, too, you can try to make exhaust rectangular say 6in width and 12inch height. The upper 6inch height of exhaust can be closed with guillotine style doors ( so you can choose the exhaust to the chimney will be 6x12 or 6x6 or anything in between. The more it is open, the sooner this bell will "spill" gasses to the flue. How much difference this makes also depends on the bell horizontal surface size... But it should work. Imo this can work as a bypass and as a regulation of speed of glasses. Obviously the lower parts of the bell would receive less heat if the rectangle exhaust would be full open (6*12).
This option is not possible with flue-only systems...

If it doesn't make sense, I can draw