thomas rubino wrote:Just got a new candy temp (T&G dragon breath monitor) gauge to check the gas temperature in the studio RMH.
Its been running since 7 am, outside temps up from 10 F to 22F . room temp is 74F , READY... stack gas temperature 2' above the mass is over 400F ! seemed to settle in around 420 F or so ! OMG I had no idea I was loosing that much heat !!! Hmmm maybe a bell at the far end … (wife will strangle me if she reads this ) She hates when I interrupt her happy artist life … with trivial things like heat!
I informed her the other day, I intended to install a 5 minute riser in that stove this summer... After the lecture … I will be shielding my work area from her work area during that project.
Eric Hammond wrote:In the simplest terms, judging from what I see, the battery monitor is bad.
(using Paul's numbering system)
145) The battery monitor being plugged in to the circuit should not increase the voltage in the circuit, making me think there is a voltage leak internally to it.
198r) The very last picture tells me the monitor thinks amperage is always coming in to the battery all the time, and never leaving the battery at night, still charging through some miracle X
23b) The amperage of 1000 amps at 48v = 48,000 watts from the panels at night seems excessive (this one was slightly a joke)
I also at this point would like to razz you about the wire nuts, and that you should get rid of them, we aren't building a house ;)
Eric Hammond wrote:
Hey Gerry, sorry it wasn't something simple! I'm a little confused by some of the readings you said, mostly because without pictures its not clear what your referring to. Also, not to second guess you in any way, but I would like a picture of the meter screen when your make your measurements. We are dealing with REALLY small amounts of voltage here and the measurements are critical.
First, you did install the shunt in the NEGATIVE battery cable correct? Were the fasteners torqued with a torque wrench?
You need to set your voltmeter up to read mV. I highly recommend this specific meter for ease of operation and accurate results/ with cost in mind.
You'll notice on my shunt, all the terminals were coated with a conductive electrical grease (NOT di-electric)
Does that make sense? That should be enough info to pinpoint the culprit. It's worth noting, Voltage drop only works with the circuit intact and functioning. We cannot unplug anything to make measurements.