David Wieland

Joylynn Hardesty wrote:Good info, Kaarena! Brrr!!! Lake!!!

I've never heard of adults not liking showers or anyone getting cold from them.

At the time the OP wrote the original post, I'm pretty sure he was at Wheaton Labs, taking rocket heated showers in an unheated outdoor facility. In the Montana winter.

Okay, now it makes some sense. I didn't know my attitude and practice regarding showers was so unusual. I normally shower to get clean and have a hot shower only rarely when I"m trying to ease muscle ache.

In the summer, I take a quick shower in cool water to rinse off the sweat before bed. In cooler weather, I shower to get clean, starting with washing my hair in warm water (using a very modest amount of 'poo), followed by a quick loofah rubdown and warm water rinse, ending with a full cold water final rinse. Then I towel off while still in the shower. When I step out onto the bath mat to do a final towel drying, I find the cooler air to be pleasantly bracing. This isn't a sauna experience, but it's leaning in that direction. All in all, it feels healthful and part of what keeps me going strong at 80.

Riona Abhainn wrote:I know next to nothing about substack, I think one or two people on here have it...

Surely there are more. I discovered Substack in its first year and have found it an excellent way to a broader and deeper understanding of a variety of topics. I'm sure it has some dubious content, but what I've subscribed to is is informed, thoughtful observations, research, and analysis. (There's some humour too, such as Dave Barry.) Permies is a worthy addition.

r ransom wrote:...We usually use Methyl alcohol (also known as methanol or wood alcohol) is the simplest alcohol...

Some light research suggests that ethyl alcohol is the usual solvent for shellac -- but denatured with methyl alcohol.
From a Duck-Duck-Go search assist:
The best solvent for shellac is ethanol, often found in the form of denatured alcohol.

r ransom wrote:...
Unfortunately, I can't seem to find it in the shops and now I'm wondering if it's a controlled substance due to people mistaking it for drinking alcohol.  I really don't want to use the major toxic stuff and drinking or medical alcohol doesn't bind to shellac.

Methyl alcohol isn't hard to find in my neck of the woods, but it's also sold as gas line antifreeze.  Methyl alcohol is also called methanol, methylene, and methyl hydrate.

Alcohol of various kinds is a well-respected solvent and sanitizer. (I'm not talking about the "social lubricant" use of ethyl alcohol.) I've never heard it described as dangerous except around flame.

I presume that the original problem was dealt with a long time ago. But for future reference, I'll offer some relevant comments. A branch that's just 6-8 feet above the ground is in easy reach of a polesaw (manual or chainsaw type). I have a lot of trees, so I also have both kinds, the chainsaw type being cordless.

To protect plantings below them, it would be very helpful to have a second person to hold the end of the branch to be cut. Then starting from the end -- not from the tree trunk -- cut it in pieces short enough for the holding person to handle. That way each piece can be lifted away from the planting. Near the starting tip, a long-handled lopper might be better than a saw, depending on the springiness of the branch.
Update: I just realized that the 6-8 foot height that the original poster (OP) described must have referred to where the branch came off the trunk. Silver maple branches angle steeply upward, so the tip might have been much higher. Still, cutting the branch in shorter pieces,  with whatever saw can reach, is the best option short of a motorized bucket (or crane!).

In my experience, having a maple tree nearby makes a poor garden, because maples develop a lot of fine roots near the surface. Within two years of establishing such a garden, it was invaded with such roots that out-competed the garden plants.

Thekla McDaniels wrote:Let’s not forget alfalfa as a nitrogen fixer.  It’s not a very demanding plant, has very deep roots, and can be cut by hand a few times a year.  It can be fed to rabbits and chickens.
...

I grew it for hay, pasture being the other agricultural use. After manuring the field, it grew well. Like all crops that are harvested, fertility must be provided in some way. Growing legumes as a way to provide nitrogen works if you turn them in rather than harvesting. Otherwise the nitrogen is just feeding the plant. Some interesting information about nitrogen fixing is at https://www.ruralsprout.com/beans-nitrogen-fixing/.

If you really want to dig tough roots out directly, without cutting them first, you probably need something like a mini excavator with a sturdy rake attachment replacing the bucket. You may be very strong, but an excavator is stronger.

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:..
As an alternative, have a look at the Radius Root Slayer. I have one (bought on sale) -- these things are absolute tanks, seriously overbuilt. Might suit you.

I second the Root Slayer recommendation, especially if you take the time to sharpen it. (A new one isn't sharp, probably for safety.)