Maruf Miliunas

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since Mar 03, 2019
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forest garden foraging writing
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Recent posts by Maruf Miliunas

Learning how to use a ratchet strap is one thing, however, finding where to learn how to tie ratchet straps for RTF is another. I've made progress using constrictor knots with ratchet straps, however, I find myself tearing up my frame bed, trying to tighten tenon & mortise joints, where I've seen in pictures how ratchet straps hold joints together without any external supports. I've searched youtube and google and I can't find anything on this subject. Anyone have any tie down methods to share?
Thanks Robert, I need to make a single cast of where my home's beams will sit on the boulder, then a cast of that cast which I will use to cut out of the wood. I'm wondering if a paper machė mold would work for the first cast, then plaster of Paris for the second.
1 month ago
I have a project to make a mold of the surface of a boulder and searching the web all I can find are silicone molds. Anyone know of natural alternatives, even if just single use molds?
1 month ago
Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I've seen this video, however, I don't see how to apply his solution to my situation, hence I'm leaning towards making molds. The frame raise requires a lot more people and risk, whereas the casts I could make myself.

@John, those round wood poles in the video are indeed crucks, according to Ben Law's Roundwood Timber Framing book, that I'm following.

The second floor would support a sleeping loft, basically a bed, maybe some drawers for clothes, maybe a desk and what not


A recap of the video:

  • 1 – How can I stably raise one side of a boulder so the surface is flat? What's the most stable thing to put under? Can I get away with putting rocks underneath, if so should I stabilize them somehow?
  • 2 – How do I transfer the surface of the boulders to the legs of the crucks, as both of them are separate up until I finally raise the crucks? Are there any special tricks, like clay and paper mache?
  • 3 – The crossbeam of the crucks, can it also support heavy loads or is its purpose primarily to stabilize the crucks?
  • After more consideration, would it not make more sense to build the framebed first, constructed the crucks frames, then bring in the boulders, and reassemble the framebed around the boulders if needed, then prepare for raise.

    Regarding scribing, how would I transfer the boulder's surface onto the foot of the crucks joint while it's lying, if they're both stationary until lift day? Making a cast molding seems overkill. There must be a simpler way.

    Lastly for now, I thought I've seen this, I could be mistaken – would it make sense to raise the wall posts with the crucks frame as a single piece on raise day?
    I have filled ~60cmx60cm rubble trenches underneath the corner posts outside of the rubble trench. With boulders on top, I was told it will suffice. I figure I would fill the spaces in between the boulders with smaller rocks and lime, though I'm curious if there's something simpler.

    If I understand you correctly:
    - I the corner boulders in their final places
    - I build the frame bed separately to use as a template, possibly, right below the boulders to have less to move (assuming the boulders wouldn't get in the way of construction)
    - I would prepare the tenon + mortise joints. and build both frames
    - Once the boulders are set, I'd know their height, and how much to cut off each leg of the crucks
    - Once the frames are in place, next would come lift preparation

    Slowly but surely I'm making way towards starting my roundwood timber frame. With the rubble trench filled, I've already harvested the trees over a month ago and I'm almost done debarking them, and pulling them the last 70 meters to the construction site. I decided I will build my home's frame on large, maybe 1 meter long boulders, which I have yet to order from the quarry. The boulders complicate how I envision the order that things should occur in. Here's how I envision the steps:

  • Assemble the logs so they don't get in the way of the truck bringing in the boulders
  • Order the boulders from the quarry
  • Install the boulders in their final places
  • Make the boulder surfaces for each corner level
  • Build the framebed
  • Build the crucks frames


  • Questions:
    - Where do I build the framebed in correllation to the house? My understanding is to build the framebed where the house will sit.
    - If I build the FB on the house site, should I install the boulders in their final positions, and build the frame bed on top of the boulders?
    - If so, it would be less work to lift the crucks legs onto the final resting positions, however, once I'd construct the first crucks frame, I'd have to move it off the framebed to make room to build the second and final crucks frame, might I run out of space?
    - Am I overcomplicating this?
    In preparing the wood to build my house, I recently discovered you can get the bark off a tree cut in late winte/early spring quicker and cleaner by peeling it instead of using a drawknife, which leaves me with intact sections of bark, instead of loose shavings, which leads me to the question: What can you do with pine or spruce bark?

    The bark, while still green, is sturdy and flexible. I'm curious what transformation it will go through with time + drying, and if there are any ways to prepare it for some other uses. I've heard birch bark was used to line the bottom of sod roofs, and I'm curious if anyone knows of what properties these other common tree barks have.

    I've read here and there spruce bark can be used for medicinal extracts, I'm guessing, similar to the use of willow bark but I haven't found *how* it's prepared for that.
    3 months ago
    I found sheep's wool is good as a general mulcher. Some grasses get through, but little and I'm overall very pleased with it, although I dono if I'd use it as a replacement for garden fleece which helps the plants underneath it grow
    3 months ago