Benjamin Dinkel

Hey, thanks for clarifying. The flour is essentially for structure in the mix I imagine. A lot of lime paints use fine sand or other powders for that. In the combination with linseed oil I can’t imagine a lot of problems. But I haven’t used it, so I can’t vouch for it. You could try a patch and worst case sand it off if it discolors in an unwanted way.
Please share your findings! And good luck!

Hey Tiffaney,
I’m struggling to understand what exactly you’re asking, I’d like to help.
What is it that you want to paint? A cob bench?
What exactly is flour paint? And what are you trying to achieve?

For a while now I've been pondering a BBR for my home.
I want to build a 6" BBR with a bell, possibly as a bench.

I really like some of the features of the 7 inch batch box rocket mass heater in the woodshop at wheaton labs such as:

gravity plunge door

no metal bracing used, but cob holds the core together

I'm wondering whether the plunge door could be implemented on a "Shorty core" if the necessary air channels are built into the frame it leans against.
I like that the Shorty doesn't rely on the secondary air channel that needs replacement.

Could the "cob" bracing work on a shorty core? Or are we entering weird experimental ground here?


Thanks in advance fellow RMH enthusiasts

Hi Claire,

I strongly advice to put the RMH in a room you will be in regularly. To tend to the fire and to enjoy the radiating heat. I don't think the basement is a good option unfortunatley.

Here's the list of professionals that could potentially build a RMH for you:
RMH builders list

Maggie Quinn wrote:My concern was that it wouldn’t form a proper “key” to the lath. I was thinking of possibly stapling the wool (sheep’s) to hold it down a little bit to possibly leave some extra room for the key

I would't compress the insulation. It needs to be fluffly to do it's job.
When you apply the first layer of plaster make sure your plaster penetrates. That is make it somewhat more liquid and actually use pressure while applying.

Did you already install all the lath?
Did you look up what distance the lath usually was installed at?

Hey Maggie.
I don’t think that lime plaster touching the wool (mineral wool or what type is it?) should be a problem either.
And also I think you could have an easier (and cheaper) solution by attaching (split) bamboo rolls or willow rolls (the ones used for shade etc) to the studs. We usually space them 20-30” apart and then plaster over them. First layer of plaster quite liquid in consistency so it penetrates between the bamboo or willow.
Best wishes and keep us updated!

Hey Gerry,
thanks for the answer.

I don’t see any other way. But then there are lots of benches with the chimney at the far end.

When I go check the site on Sunday I’ll keep your idea in mind. I like it.

So I'm still wondering about the usefulness of this "top of the bench" bypass.



I would only gain about 6" height difference between the regular opening into the existing chimney and the "top of bench" bypass opening.

I will go for a T (or other opening) anyways. For inspection and priming. But I'm wondering if the bypass will be useful.

Hey Marc, nice progress!

Looking closely at your foto I think I can see a new layer forming. Is that the case?
If yes, it’s definitely still alive. The kombucha might not be as bubbly, but just drink or compost some of it and give it another round of new sweet tea and it’ll probably gain some more vigor.