Mike Barkley wrote:Nice write up Cam. Already looking forward to the next installment.
2 amps x 575 volts = 1150 watts. Now if we convert the 1.25 horsepower into watts we get 1.25 x 745.7 = 932.13 watts. Why the mismatch?
A. The true measured current is probably slightly less than the label indicates. To give the person building something with the motor a safety fudge factor in determining an appropriate circuit breaker to use.
B. The horsepower to wattage conversion calculation doesn't take into account losses like friction, eddy currents, skin effect, hysterisis, etc. That conversion is accurate for purely resistive circuits.
If memory serves TIME CONT indicates it can be run continuously.
I think FORM KXM refers to the form factor of the stator & possibly some other parts.
Wondering if that hefty motor is actually a generator? Could be, the 2 things are basically the same. Anytime there is current through a conductor an electromagnetic field is produced & vice versa. In one an electromagnetic field moves magnets to cause rotation. The other uses rotating magnets to generate electric fields which then induce current into conductive wires. The devil is in the details.
Don't lick the terminals. Check.
Mike Barkley wrote:Any interest in kicking this up a notch with explanations of inductors & capacitors? How series & parallel components interact? Or something else along those lines?
William Bagwell wrote:
If your going to pursue this long term, search for "security bit set". Have a 100 piece set in a nice case that comes in handy from time to time. See almost the same with an added handle for $15 and a 214 piece set for $31. Actually bought it for tiny Torx and the smallest was too large, had to buy a smaller set of just Torx...
And yes I did! Both enjoy and learn.
Mike Barkley wrote:
Do you think the shaded pole got knocked loose or something?
Yes, a very good chance it did.
Mike Barkley wrote:
I recently "repaired" a fan by cutting a hole in the cage that usually blocks the blade. It's so you can get your finger in there to get the blade moving initially.
AC motors often have something called a shaded pole. It's a small piece of shielding inside the motor to cause a tiny bit of electromagnetic disturbance. If the motor magnets happens to stop in exactly a neutral position between the coil windings the electrical unbalance helps insure that the motor starts. Do you hear anything rattling inside the fan?
Mike Barkley wrote:Actually, the L1 marking by the green component indicates it is an inductor. Sometime called a coil. Here's the color code for those. https://www.basictables.com/electronics/inductor/inductor-color-code
It looks like there are some diodes & a simple integrated circuit of some sort on that board too. D9 is the diode & U4 is the IC.
T usually indicates a transformer but T6 doesn't appear to be a transformer. The manufacturer might be calling a coil a transformer there. Or it might be a misprint. It looks more like a diode but it doesn't have the cathode stripe.
CX might be some kind of proprietary component. That's not a standard designation. Is it ceramic? It kind of looks like a power resistor.
F1 is a fuse.
Capacitors are usually labeled with a C. Some of those are marked with E. For electrolytic? I guess ZhuHai does it their own way.
Another thing to note on this board is the RoHS label. That means restriction of hazardous substances. Specifically lead solder on circuit boards. Which means if it needs soldering use silver solder & the appropriate flux or the board will likely be destroyed trying to fix it.
Mike Barkley wrote:
If they are hooked together in parallel it increases the amperage & the capacitance. If they are hooked in series it is to increase the voltage. Either way ... don't lick them!!!
Thomas Dean wrote:
My coffee pot stopped working. It was just a standard coffee pot. I couldn't see buying a new one... I took it apart, hard-wired the electric cord directly to the heating unit (same unit keeps the bottom of the pot warm and boils the water to put over the grounds) Now, it runs when plugged in, unplug when done.