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George Tyler wrote:
Has anyone tried making something like this? See any pitfalls?
Steve Zoma wrote:All I can think of is to use the waterproofing they used to waterproof boats. They have been making boats for 9000 years so maybe use pine tar which is what they used right up to1920 for waterproofing.
But here is the problem. It is not so much that people are not willing to try something beyond asphalt tar or plastic for waterproofing, it is that the cost of failure of experimental materials is going to be devastating. Redigging the earth, then reapplying something else to waterproof, and then reapplying the soil is all really hard work. That is not counting the destruction done to the interior of the home or its contents.
I think it is one of those things that while plastic is bad, maybe by getting something to recycling at least, in an underground home it can be a one and done thing.
Gerald Smith wrote:Learned that this was indeed a 5,000 square foot home with 8 bedrooms. Here are some more photos of this home, but have not yet figured out who's home it is. I would love to know the history of this home, especially since the roof was poorly (wrongly) engineered to be flat and it was predicted to have leaks:
Sonja Draven wrote:I had planned on putting in a fire pit next year since I don't need it until then (actually, I hoped to do it this year but *everything* is taking longer this year than expected and I expected it to take a long time...), but I have family visiting next month and I thought it would be a fun project to do together rain or shine.
I have a mix of big and small rocks and I plan to use the big ones as primary construction and thought I'd fill in the gaps with the smaller rocks and old concrete chunks. I thought I better ask the collective permies mind if it's safe to heat concrete that way, if it's a bad idea for practical reasons, etc.
Basically is there anything I need to know before I just jump right in?
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Standard texture spray guns want air pressure in the range of 60-90 psi for spraying clay slips or lime base earthen plasters because of the density of the material.
You will want a compressor with at least a 20 gal. reserve tank for the air so you don't have to stop and wait for pressure build up many, many times during the spraying.
(I have used 80 gal. tank two stage, 5 hp., 230v compressors for plaster spraying and I have also used 6 gal. pancake compressors, believe me, the more air available the happier you will be with the end results).
Any time you stop spraying plasters (as in you ran out of air supply due to too small a tank) you need to watch the consistency in the hopper or you might end up with a clogged gun and that means stopping to clean out the gun then put is all back together and starting again.
Trace Oswald wrote:
Where do I find out the specifics on how to do this? I'm fascinated.
Cécile Stelzer Johnson wrote:
Amy Gardener wrote:This inspiring article is from BBC's Heritage Architecture series: "Spain's ingenious fairy-tale houses".
Any permies working on round buildings or organizing a circular space? Please share your progress, challenges and/or experience. I for one would love to hear and see more about what's happening in circular building and organizing round living spaces.
The main difficulty, I think is that everything is made to fit in square buildings: shelves, furniture, closet space, appliances...Placing a flat furniture along a curved wall wastes space. IMHO, one can make straight walls in the center of the building and place furniture there.
I wish that folks who live in tornado alleys would consider rebuilding in round buildings: a shorter, squat, round building is wonderful to resist high winds!