Sourdough Al

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since May 24, 2022
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Recent posts by Sourdough Al

That sounds good.  

We are planning to start building an in-ground geo-thermal greenhouse (similar to a Walipini) this year.  The engineered design we got show attaching the greenhouse frame to 4-foot concrete pillar/posts.  The reason being is to secure it from winds and swelling ground due to harsh freezing weather we get here in Montana.  Also, that keeps our wooden beams above the dirt and supported by the concrete posts.  

The greenhouse design calls for not less than 12" (305 mm) diameter "sonotube" which we can get from our local hardware store to make the concrete pillars/posts.  They go up to 30" (762 mm) wide x 4ft (1,220 mm) long at our store, but the design only calls for 12".  If we had different soil, we would have to go with the wider ones.

When I was a kid, my parents moved a big 2-story house to a hillside cut.  Most of the house was on the fresh cut (which was hardpan/compacted clay and gravel), but the west wall was partly on fill.  Every summer dad had to re-level the whole house so mom's cupboard doors would close again.  It took about 10 years to finally stop shifting.  Dad just poured footers and walls to set the house on.  I suspect if he poured some 3 or 4 foot pillars under the footers, the house would have been more stable.

In the 90's, my wife and I bought in a 1950's house in the Helena Valley in Montana - USA.  That valley is filled with 1,000's of feet of loose alluvial gravel.  We had a small 4.2 earthquake one spring and the kitchen area sunk ~ 1".  I had to shim that area up so doors would work again.  What was strange was none of the other rooms had any noticeable effects, just the kitchen.  

Later that year, we visited a guy across the valley from us and his new house (~5 yrs old) had massive cracks and ripped sheetrock throughout the whole house.  It looked to have differentially sunk at least an inch or two (25-50mm).  We felt so sorry for him...    

So there are my fun experiences with "shifting" houses....

In closing.  From our experiences with 3 different building sites in two different states, a lot of the final details will come to you just by taking time to walk around your area multiple times in multiple directions to "listen" to what it tells you.  Sounds weird, but it does happen.   Things will just seem to pop into your mind from out of the blue...

Enjoy and wishing you a lot of fun.  It looks like a beautiful area!
2 years ago
Be caution of doing too much on the fill area because it doesn't look like it was packed and anchored to the hill.  With the right seismic activity and moisture it may become liquefied and "flow" down slope.  

How deep are your posts?  

2 years ago
Thank you, that is very interesting.  Love the concept - the more natural, the better!

Can't wait to try in our geo-thermal greenhouse...

2 years ago
Hi,

I see your Hawthorns are sold out.  We have a red Hawthorn, but it has never reproduced even though it makes lots of seeds every year.  There are plenty of other Hawthorn trees around our neighborhood.  

How can we get a start from it?      

2 years ago
Hi,

Here is my experience after +20 years of dowsing.

Several old-timer's from Wa and Mt worked with me for years before it stared working.  I was skeptical and at first it did not work.  But later it started working little by little.  One of the lessons I learned is not to get in a hurray, don't rush!  But the most important lesson I learned was from an old Sourdough (93 yrs old) from Washington who had prospected and mined all over Ak, Wa, Nv, Az, Or.  He told me very sternly, "Never dowse for greed, dowse for need!"  

Over the years I have mainly dowsed for prospecting and have found several nice mineral prospects (copper, silver, gold...) along the way.

Dowsing does work, but I have also found there are a lot of factors that go into it and a lot of unseen factors that can really mess you up.  An old-timer in Montana I worked with told me a story of digging a 30 foot prospect pit on a strong gold signal he got only to break into an old stope below.  Thankfully, he was tied off so when the thin layer of rock at grassroots collapsed into the stope below, he was able to scramble out just in time.  

I recently dowsed for a well for myself and everywhere I went on the property showed water a 6-7 feet.  I knew it couldn't be shallow because I had already dug down to +7 feet in one area and all I found was heavy, saturated, clay-sand mix from 4ft down.  I finally hired a driller and gave it my best guess.  He hit heavy, saturated, clay-sand mix from near surface to about 65 feet where he hit a 15 foot thick layers of heavy, wet clay, before finally punching into fractured bedrock and water at 120 feet.  

I have noticed similar interferences in prospect-dowsing where a specific rock layer will mask a vein.  I now realize this is a similar situation because the multiple clay seams acted like barriers to the "signals" water creates as if flows through the ground beneath our feet.  If it was just soil or gravel or even rock, no problem, but clay is like a "wet blanket" - it inhibits the signals from coming through, especially 15 feet of it.  

The best way I can explain dowsing is it works just like modern day geophysical surveys.  But, instead of a magical black box hooked to all kinds of sensors laid out on the ground for 1,000's of feet, one's body acts like a receiver and can provide insight into one area at a time.  The cool thing with the geophysical surveys I have worked with in the past is they can give you a pretty picture of a large area, whereas dowsing is basically just of the area where you are standing and then you have to connect all the dots - like several posts here have mentioned.

Every time I dowse, I learn something new...So enjoy it and don't stress so much as to how it work, but what you can learn about the area you are dowsing.  And remember, "Don't dowse for GREED, dowse for need!"

Cheers!


Sourdough-Al
2 years ago
Hi John,

Very good idea.  There are conventional stoves that utilize soapstone to store heat.  

Thank you for sharing.

Ag
2 years ago
I know farmers used reject gypsum in Oklahoma and lime in western Washington.   I have heard some granite product is beneficial.

I am in Montana and am thinking about trying some of the local rock to see if it shows any beneficial value...

Where are you located?

3 years ago
Lots of good replies.  I suspect depends on where it comes from.  

3 years ago
All very good discussions.

I use to keep bees in the good ole days and usually donated my wax to the local bee club I belonged to.  The mappings mostly came out beautiful yellow while the brood frames took a bit more work to get away from darker colors.

I don't have anything else i can add different to this very informative conversation other than to say thank you for asking us and enjoy the fascinating world of bees!
3 years ago