I've gathered information on plants and mordants in preparation for dyeing using the three methods described in the Straw Textiles Badge.
Resources Walsh, P. (2010). Spinning, dyeing, & weaving: Self-sufficiency. In Spinning, dyeing, & weaving: Self-sufficiency (pp. 60-85). New York: Skyhorse Pub.
Kendall, T. (2011). The fabric & yarn dyer's handbook: Over 100 inspirational recipes to dye and pattern fabric. London: Collins & Brown.
plants with dyes that are colorfast, reliable, and easy to use that you can grow woad
more plants and weeds Alkanet
gallnuts - gall wasp nests on usually found on oak trees oak bark (tanins give brown - seen used on pig hide)
natural dyes without a garden - most need a mordant avocado skin - pinks
tired spinach leaves
mordant dye and mordant as two separate steps for plant material/fiber to ensure colorfast (see pages 68-71 (Walsh) for recipes)
mordants improve takeup of dye and to fix the color
ALUM: gives truest color - other mordants five greenish or yellowish tinge
use 10% - example 32 ounces fiber & 3.2 ounces alum
mordant recipes from Kendal p.24) for 4 ounces of wool and silk use 1/2 tablespoon alum, 1/2 tablespoon cream of tartar, and 2/3 cup of water for 4 ounces of cotton and linen use 4 teaspoons alum, 4 teaspoons tannic acid, and 1 cup of water
Opalyn Rose wrote:
plants with dyes that are colorfast, reliable, and easy to use that you can grow
Not sure if this is actually easy. I think it has to be fermented or treated with ammonia to dye blue reliably. This video shows what unsuccessful woad dying can look like:
But, I've also never attempted working with woad or indigo, so maybe there's a trick others know to make it easier?
copper coins surface is alkaline and reacts with acid - not sure how to use as mordant
Apparently, older coins work better, as they have a higher copper content. You soak them in vinegar, or vinegar+hydrogen peroxide (aka paracetic acid) to get a coppery liquid.
I used copper pipes to make stain for my son's chessboard, to get a truer copper mordant, and then ignored the remaining stain and came back to nice blue copper crystals that work as a mordant. (I wrote about it here in the PEP Oddball thread)
Here's the liquid mordant/stain I made before it was used/evaporated down to crystals:
Maiwa has some nice, free PDFs on natural dying here.
Aurora silk also has free ebooks on natural drying --you just have to give them your email address to get them. Here's the link