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Restoring old hand me down tools

 
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One of the things I found and kept after doing our big five year cleanup of this place was tools. Actually I already got rid of heaps... It was overwhelming, but I still have quite a lot.

I'll post my repairs and restorations here.

A lot of these will probably coincidentally fulfill badge bits.

I've already restored a lot, and I'll try to hunt down some pics. For now I'll post the big pile of tools that need handles and saws that need sharpening and general maintenance.
 
L. Johnson
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These all need new handles. The real question is do I need all these... My needs will determine which get new handles.
IMG_20211202_122505730.jpg
Need handles
Need handles
 
L. Johnson
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These saws are in pretty rough shape. Some are missing teeth, one has its handle split. Even the ones in the best shape need sharpening and oil.
IMG_20211202_122843429.jpg
Old saws
Old saws
 
L. Johnson
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I think I cleaned, sharpened, and oiled these back in 2017, they were not buried under hordes of other things, so I found them relatively early.

The pruners still need some attention. Hey, that's a BB!
IMG20170618110151.jpg
Nata, sickles, and chisels
Nata, sickles, and chisels
IMG20170618150035.jpg
Cleaned up
Cleaned up
 
pollinator
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Hello,

Nearly all your gear will come up brand new,
You just need to sharpen and hone in the teeth,

Some may have some imperfections, and your chisels appear to have had the first angle removed so now they have a angle of the blade that is very steep and uses a lot of steel to sharpen.

Your tools are worth a fair bit! They are so beautiful, Mate I wish I had them, except for the Japanese saws, I just find Japanese saws weird, and I find them to flexible.

But yours are fantastic, and all the tools look like all the parts come apart easily,



[



 
L. Johnson
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Alex Moffitt wrote:Hello,

Nearly all your gear will come up brand new,
You just need to sharpen and hone in the teeth,

Some may have some imperfections, and your chisels apear to have had the first angle removed so now they have a angle of the blade that is very steep and uses a lot of steel to sharpen.

Your tools are worth a fair bit! They are so beautiful, Mate I wish I had them, except for the Japanese saws, I just find Japanese saws weird, and I find them to flexible.

But yours are fantastic, and all the tools look like all the parts come apart easily,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3cdT9GZcVg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btB03IMXDdY




Aye, that was my first time ever sharpening chisels 5 years ago. I think I actually accidentally rounded the bevel that time!!! The second time I sharpened them took forever to get the proper angles back. I've learned a bit since then.

As for the other tools I haven't gotten to yet, we'll see how they look after some work! Thanks for the encouragement.

I've never sharpened a saw before, so by the time I finish sharpening all of these, I might be decent at it.
 
Alex Mowbray
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L. Johnson wrote:

Alex Moffitt wrote:Hello,

Nearly all your gear will come up brand new,
You just need to sharpen and hone in the teeth,

Some may have some imperfections, and your chisels apear to have had the first angle removed so now they have a angle of the blade that is very steep and uses a lot of steel to sharpen.

Your tools are worth a fair bit! They are so beautiful, Mate I wish I had them, except for the Japanese saws, I just find Japanese saws weird, and I find them to flexible.

But yours are fantastic, and all the tools look like all the parts come apart easily,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3cdT9GZcVg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btB03IMXDdY




Aye, that was my first time ever sharpening chisels 5 years ago. I think I actually accidentally rounded the bevel that time!!! The second time I sharpened them took forever to get the proper angles back. I've learned a bit since then.

As for the other tools I haven't gotten to yet, we'll see how they look after some work! Thanks for the encouragement.

I've never sharpened a saw before, so by the time I finish sharpening all of these, I might be decent at it.




My first time was with a set of 8 bahco chisels, I can not remember how many years ago, but I did something very similar!

I love this youtuber Matt estlea, on wood working he gives great lessons and he is engaging which is important!

 
L. Johnson
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Axe number one. This is clearly a small spitting axe. It had a rather long handle that was very thin and not well balanced. The handle on this as well as most of the rest of these was probably at least 60 years old if not more.

I used a piece of castanopsis log that fell on my mountain land for the handle and a little bit of cedar for the wedge. Making something useful from a dead tree from my own property was very fulfilling.
IMG_20210908_104440358_HDR-2.jpg
The 60+ year old handle broke after about an hour of use
The 60+ year old handle broke after about an hour of use
IMG_20211024_141528074.jpg
Loading the length of castanopsis on my wheel barrow
Loading the length of castanopsis on my wheel barrow
 
L. Johnson
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The log didn't split very cleanly. It had an internal knot and a bit of twist, probably where the tree grew around the branch.

Unfortunately when I split it the stress put some extra cracks through part of the wood. In retrospect I should have sawn off the portion with the major imperfection that was visible from the outside.
IMG_20211024_143527848.jpg
Getting the wedges started
Getting the wedges started
IMG_20211024_151525578_HDR.jpg
Ehhh... Meh
Ehhh... Meh
 
L. Johnson
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I really wish I had a carving axe to clean up this stock... Oh wait that's broken axe number two... My very versatile nata will have to serve.

This oversized drawknife doesn't let me get into narrow angles, but it serves until my new chair makers draw knife is ready.
IMG_20211126_134317062.jpg
Cleaning it up with a nata
Cleaning it up with a nata
IMG_20211126_135030482.jpg
Drawknife for bark removal doing double duty as a carving tool
Drawknife for bark removal doing double duty as a carving tool
 
L. Johnson
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With small stock like this I don't have a lot of extra material, so I had to be thoughtful while carving the handle to keep the grain orientation and centerline straight.

I kept the taper about 5 inches too long to start, but I was being very cautious. And it finally fit.
IMG_20211126_140404197.jpg
Checking the eye size and orientation against the grain
Checking the eye size and orientation against the grain
IMG_20211126_150940876.jpg
It's a tad bit long...
It's a tad bit long...
 
L. Johnson
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I continue paring down the taper until the head hung to a good working length, then cut off the excess.

I've been recommended to make the kerf for the wedge by sawing, and also recommended by splitting... My last failure involved a split kerf, so I opted to saw it.

There's apparently a big debate about softwoods versus hardwoods for best wedge material. I opted for cedar, a softwood, because I have a lot and it is easy to shave down to the right profile.

Edit: after looking at the picture carefully, this kerf sawing photo is from axe number 2. But I did the same on both axes.
IMG_20211201_095544094_HDR.jpg
I sawed the kerf for the wedge
I sawed the kerf for the wedge
IMG_20211201_110340595.jpg
I shaved the cedar wedge down with a kogatana
I shaved the cedar wedge down with a kogatana
 
L. Johnson
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And the finished handle with the axe head on and wedge installed.

I might still clean up the handle a little bit, but it's comfortable to use now.

Next job is sharpening it.  Hey, that's a BB!
IMG_20211203_135808560.jpg
Not bad for a first success
Not bad for a first success
IMG_20211203_135803828.jpg
The wedge shifted forward a little, I can always add a metal wedge later if needed
The wedge shifted forward a little, I can always add a metal wedge later if needed
 
Alex Mowbray
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Hello,

Have you considered, making a wire pin the the centre of the handle, or use handle improvements, such as sanding shaping, use of overstrike guards. and Grip coverings.

Here is an 19th century hammer, I applied all of these onto years ago!


Regards,
Alex
20211204_145536.jpg
[Thumbnail for 20211204_145536.jpg]
 
L. Johnson
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Alex Moffitt wrote:Hello,

Have you considered, making a wire pin the the centre of the handle, or use handle improvements, such as sanding shaping, use of overstrike guards. and Grip coverings.



I would be interested in reading a thread about handle improvements like these Alex. Would you be interested in writing one up? I don't know much about any of those except grip coverings.
 
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Howdy,

The rope wrap that you see below the ball-peen head of Alexs' photo, looks like the same type used on White Water rafting oars. I have used this on other types of "handles" that have cracks, or I am trying to make a hand grip type of thing.
 
Alex Mowbray
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randal cranor wrote:Howdy,

The rope wrap that you see below the ball-peen head of Alexs' photo, looks like the same type used on White Water rafting oars. I have used this on other types of "handles" that have cracks, or I am trying to make a hand grip type of thing.



Its just an over strike guard, and shock absorber, made of bungee cord and electrical tape to reduce risk of cracks and splits, I also used wax from a candle to coat the wood and protect it.

I use a piece of waste wire to make the wedge, and bent it over and made a couple drill holes before tapping it into place.

I then used Some fibre glass bog to protect the top of the hammer head.

This was many years ago!
 
pollinator
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I'm always finding old tools around the farm, no real idea how to make new handles, and replacement handles at the farm store cost as much as a new tool... and I have to install them!  So... I've been lazy.  I do have an old scoop shovel head that I mounted on the handle of a sledge hammer (I broke the sledge hammer head off when I missed the wedge one too many times).  It works great to clean the chicken coop!  Short, sturdy handle.  I've also cut the broke ends off broom and rake handles and re-attached them (shorter, but still functional)
However, I don't know how to begin making a new handle for, say, a shovel or axe.
I assume hard wood?  I live in a forest of ash (all of it dead/dying), poplar, and "soft" maples with a few oaks (but not many) as well as a few wild apple (not cutting those down - good for foraging from) and a small stand of softwood (various species planted around 30 years ago - spruces, pines, cedars - planted as deer cover, windbreak, and to fill an un-farmable location.  Anything worth using on that list?  I also don't have any fancy tools.
 
L. Johnson
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So far as I can tell every log is different.

If you can find a piece of wood the right size and shape with grain running the right direction and it isn't too old or dry it could become a handle.

The handles I've seen posted in the PEP badge bits come in all varieties. It's hard to know how long they'll last and how comfortable to use they'll be without trying for yourself.

The wood I used to make my axe handles is similar to oak theoretically. I've never worked with oak though, so I can't say.

Do you have any recently fallen trees? I'd try to split one and see what's inside.
 
Alex Mowbray
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Thomas Dean wrote:I'm always finding old tools around the farm, no real idea how to make new handles, and replacement handles at the farm store cost as much as a new tool... and I have to install them!  So... I've been lazy.  I do have an old scoop shovel head that I mounted on the handle of a sledge hammer (I broke the sledge hammer head off when I missed the wedge one too many times).  It works great to clean the chicken coop!  Short, sturdy handle.  I've also cut the broke ends off broom and rake handles and re-attached them (shorter, but still functional)
However, I don't know how to begin making a new handle for, say, a shovel or axe.
I assume hard wood?  I live in a forest of ash (all of it dead/dying), poplar, and "soft" maples with a few oaks (but not many) as well as a few wild apple (not cutting those down - good for foraging from) and a small stand of softwood (various species planted around 30 years ago - spruces, pines, cedars - planted as deer cover, windbreak, and to fill an un-farmable location.  Anything worth using on that list?  I also don't have any fancy tools.



I would try copicing or looking for fallen old logs,

Hard wood is good, Ideally anything without a lot of knotts and curves in the grains. Your cedars are going to be the best.
Now some woods produce very fine bits of dust this can destroy your lungs for years after one event. Particlarly cedar.
I would research it

Tools needed,
a cleaving tools such as an axe, a knife, chisel.

A file and sand paper,



Johnson is correct the best way to understand is to pick up a piece of wood and learn that grains of wood are like a bundle of straws, which you carve.



You may want to also think about over strike protection on sledge hammers, I have been through over 30 in my work.
full metal handles bend,
fibre glass still break and they vibrate more on to your hands.
wood is great but you need to protect it and look after it.

I do love sledge hammers I can make them dance!

 
Thomas Dean
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I have cherry trees as well.

Do you work with "green" wood or age wood?
 
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Thomas Dean wrote:...and a small stand of softwood (various species planted around 30 years ago - spruces, pines, cedars - planted as deer cover, windbreak, and to fill an un-farmable location.  Anything worth using on that list?  I also don't have any fancy tools.



Softwoods are not suitable for tool handles, unfortunately. Only hardwoods need apply; the denser the better.
 
L. Johnson
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Thomas Dean wrote:I have cherry trees as well.

Do you work with "green" wood or age wood?



Green-ish wood seems to be the best for me. My castanopsis tree fell in August or September or so I think. I finally got it down off the mountain in November and split it around then. It dried out a lot more after splitting, and quite swiftly. I'm not sure how much it's still going to dry and shrink, but it's not "wet" anymore.

The issues are two -  Dried wood is hard to work compared to green wood, and it is less pliable. and Green wood shrinks as it dries, so if you make the part of the handle that fits the head of the tool when it's green, it will shrink and the head will be loose. You can work fully green and then kiln dry the head of the handle, but I'd be afraid of cracking from the quick drying. I think most pro handle makers leave the head blank quite over-sized to be carved dry when putting the new handle on.

You could make a handle out of cherry. Depending on the tool it might not be ideal, but what matters more is the grain orientation and clarity, as in if it has a lot of knots in it.
 
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What a great bunch of tools!

I would be interested in learning how to wrap a handle.  Has to be better than duct tape!!   lol
 
pollinator
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Great videos about repair. Even a 62 year old who's never done any repair and knows little about tools feels capable to try this. Thank you very much. I usually buy old, rusty stuff (otherwise known as affordable) and it's winter so I'll be trying this very soon!
 
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For those tools that have a lot of life left, but the handle is splitting, or if you just want to protect the wood handle from taking hits when you forget you know how to chop wood, look into these handy tools. They'll make saving all that baling wire, over the years, worthwhile.  

I made my own, which I copied from one I bought. I believe they are a must have tool in the emergency tool toolkit.
Wire-Clamp-Tool-1.jpg
[Thumbnail for Wire-Clamp-Tool-1.jpg]
 
pollinator
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Kelly Craig wrote:For those tools that have a lot of life left, but the handle is splitting, or if you just want to protect the wood handle from taking hits when you forget you know how to chop wood, look into these handy tools. They'll make saving all that baling wire, over the years, worthwhile.  

I made my own, which I copied from one I bought. I believe they are a must have tool in the emergency tool toolkit.



Can you show an example of them in use? What exactly are you using it for?
 
Kelly Craig
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It seems the greatest enemy to axes, hoes, shovels and rakes is, drying.

As wood handles dry, they become more brittle. Just as the blade of a knife may chip, more brittle wood can splinter from vibration impacts, or actual contact with another hard object.

Too, when wood dries, it shrinks, which causes cracks and splits.

To avoid some or all the above, handles should be treated with non-hardening, penetrating oils. This can be achieved by thinning the oil with paint thinner, turpentine, or Naptha (I go the cheapest route).  

Handles can be soaked in a capped pipe filled with thinned oil, or the oil can be, religiously, applied to the wood.

The oil may appear to evaporate off the handle, but it doesn't. Instead, it wicks into the dry parts of the wood. As such, applications of oil is cumulative. In time, the applications will become more evident and will show years down the road.

Wood saturated with non-hardening oil will swell. This will cause small cracks and splits to seem to disappear.

Once a handle is well treated, it can be washed off with dish soap and water, allowed to dry, and a hardening finish applied.

I do not recommend tung or linseed oil. They do not hold up well to the elements. However, many soak the head of their handles in slightly thinned boiled linseed oil to swell it. Then, when the linseed oil reacts to oxygen and hardens, the head of the tool is less likely to become loose, due to wood shrinkage.

For non-hardening oil, the cheapest oil you can find is fair game. Be it a pint or three of Walmart mineral oil or a quart of Dollar Store automotive oil.  I might even have used some of my used motor oil for a project or three.
 
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A page on how to use "Clamptite" type tools:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=982bm_fEm7c
 
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You have quite a few tools that look like what I would call a whacker. I put an arrow on the ones I would like to know what they're called and what they're for please.
Screenshot_20211211-123529-2.png
[Thumbnail for Screenshot_20211211-123529-2.png]
 
L. Johnson
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denise ra wrote:You have quite a few tools that look like what I would call a whacker. I put an arrow on the ones I would like to know what they're called and what they're for please.



Those are called "nata" in Japanese.

The Nata is something between a machete, an axe, a billhook, and a froe. Dictionaries give it as billhook, froe, machete, or even chopper. Wikipedia calls it a billhook.

It is in any case a versatile outdoor blade with a variety of design variations for different specialized purposes such as working with bamboo, chopping branches, small trees and heavy weeds, splitting logs, preparing campfires, etc.

I use them for peeling bark, removing branch nodes, a bit of hewing and carving, splitting, riving, pruning, cutting down banana stalks. They're quite thick in the blade, maybe 2-4mm.
 
L. Johnson
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I just noticed how you worded it. Sorry.

The leftmost is called a tobinata. The extended part of the top of the blade is supposedly so you can get close to the ground/roots of a tree or bush and cut it out without damaging the blade. Though I've also heard it helps when splitting firewood. I don't use firewood much, so I can't speak to that use personally.

The second from the left is a general purpose nata.

The tool you indicated on the right is the head of a hoe.
 
pollinator
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Great videos. I would have never thought of using boiled linseed oil on metal...I will now.
 
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Well I couldn't figure out what the clamping tool was all about till I watched this video which was detailed step-by-step.  Now I get it:  
 
Denise Cares
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Alex Moffitt wrote:

Thomas Dean wrote:
Now some woods produce very fine bits of dust this can destroy your lungs for years after one event. Particlarly cedar.
I would research it

I would like to know if the fine dust mentioned applies to chain sawing thru cedar logs to make firewood or kindling.  Is that bad for the lungs?  
Is there a way to avoid damaging the lungs - would you say by wearing a mask?


You may want to also think about over strike protection on sledge hammers, I have been through over 30 in my work.
full metal handles bend,
fibre glass still break and they vibrate more on to your hands.
wood is great but you need to protect it and look after it.

 
Kelly Craig
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That is why I posted the link on the Clampamatic, above.

Denise Cares wrote:

Alex Moffitt wrote:

Thomas Dean wrote:
[Y]ou may want to also think about over strike protection on sledge hammers, I have been through over 30 in my work.
full metal handles bend,
fibre glass still break and they vibrate more on to your hands.
wood is great but you need to protect it and look after it.

 
Kelly Craig
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Another method of protecting metal is, Penetrol. It's purpose is to make oil paint flow better (the winterbourne version, for latex paint, is Flotrol) .  Many a car buff use it to seal raw metal inside car doors and so on.  

A little bit goes a long ways.  

It can be purchased at any paint store, including hardware and big box stores that sell paint supplies.
 
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Many years ago I had an artist friend who had collected a box full broken and warn out tools -- hoping that one day he could have them reforged.  I was visiting him one day and asked him what was stopping him.  He said he did not have a forge, and did not know how to do some of the basics of forging and heat treatment.  Since I had served two formal apprenticeships with a tool and die machinist and with a master blacksmith, I explained that building a forge was easy (given some stuff out of the junk pile), and a couple of hours later I had him a little coal forge built from a break drum and salvaged cast iron water pipe.  The next morning I showed him how to do some of the basics of drawing out and upsetting, and then started redressing a couple of tools for demonstration and then had him do more.  By the first day he had most of the box of tools he had collected over decades redressed and heat treated.  So, even if the tools are warn out or broken, you might be able to get them working again.

BTW, I love the airplane wire clamp above.  I had only used one once years ago and would love to have one in my kit.

You also might want to know about using electrolysis <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dtDLQHjHBc>; to remove rust.  This is nice because it removes the rust from the piece without removing healthy material.  Once you get the rust off you can decide if you need to sand/grind the surfaces down.

One other tip I learned back in my early 20's when I worked fighting fires with the United States Forest Service, and helping to maintain the tool caches, is if you are not going to use a tool for a long time (like our axes,pulaskis, and mattocks which will not be used for a year or sometimes much more), we sharpened them, then placed a thin strip of duct tape sealed around the cutting edge, and then painted over the metal portions of the tool and the tape.  The duct tape protected the cutting edge of the tool from moisture, and using one of the tools protected this way for about 2 minutes will strip off any tape residue off the edge, and the tool can be kept at the ready for years into the future.

All that said, simply setting up a schedule to clean and oil them a couple of times a year (or maybe more depending on your climate) should keep them in good order.  I would be curious ho quickly an oiled tool will start rusting in your environment, and if it is reasonable to set up a seasonal or monthly practice of cleaning and oiling the tools or if some other solution like painting when appropriate.

Hope that all is helpful.
 
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Its sort of not very permie but Evaporust is amazing.  Its a deoxidizer and turns the rust back into metal which might keep you from tossing something aside.  Its not smelly and not caustic so I consider a win for things I need to get the rust off but don't want to use a destructive process (e.g. citric acid, aluminum foil, naval jelly, etc.) to remove it.  
 
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L. Johnson wrote:I think I cleaned, sharpened, and oiled these back in 2017, they were not buried under hordes of other things, so I found them relatively early.

The pruners still need some attention. Hey, that's a BB!



The photos of your refurbishing of these tools are wonderful.  

You gave a great series of photos and explanation on making new handles but I couldn't find anything on how you removed the rust and any pitting on the steel heads.  I have a sickle like the ones on the right of the photos that spent years in the dirt and came out pitted, as well as some much older tools with deep pitting in the steel. The old tools, however, are very thick metal and could stand to lose some layers and still be strong.  Could you give an explanation of how you go about getting the rust and pitting out of old steel?

Also, what is the "bench" you are working on to shape the handle? And what is that big round piece of wood sticking up from it for?  Is it home made or based on something traditional?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
 
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