Some folks showed interest in the idea of a food forest so I made this flyer about how to design and install one. Again, it lacks certain aspects of a perfectly
permaculture food forest as it lacks things like nitrogen fixers (I may add them in, I just couldn't include everything or it would've been overwhelming). Here is what I have so far:
Steps to planting a food forest:
1. Assess the needs and resources of the community.
Does the community need the food forest to be low maintenance longer term?
Do they need it to save on water down the line?
Do they need food year round, or do they want the forest to produce only seasonally?
How large is the space, and how much labor will be available for installing and watering it the first few years?
2. What does the community like to eat?
In the Pacific Northwest we are capable of growing a tremendous variety of food (see bottom for a few examples). Are there any foods that people like but that are scarce or expensive? Examples include foods like persimmons, nuts, peaches, apricots (which don’t ship well and are better off the tree), and rarer foods that are sometimes culturally relevant such as hawthorn or quince.
3. What’s the space like where the planting will take place?
Is there full sun or is it shady?
Is it wet or dry?
What is the soil like? Is it sandy, or heavy clay?
Is there pollution? If so, what kind? Fruit is generally considered safe to grow on polluted soil, as it doesn’t imbibe most pollutants, but leafy vegetables have other considerations.
4. The process of actually planting generally goes as follows:
Cover the area with
cardboard (this can usually be gotten for free from
local businesses as they throw it away anyway). Cardboard smothers weeds, feeds worms, and helps build healthy soil.
Cover the cardboard with woodchips. These can often be gotten for free from PUD and local arborists and landscapers who need a place to dump them. Woodchips build soil and hold water during the dry season
(summertime in our region). They also insulate the
roots of trees and shrubs during winter.
Punch holes in the cardboard (using a shovel) and dig a hole for each tree and shrub. Simply place the plant in the hole and back fill with the soil you took out. If the soil is not clay you can add
compost. If it is clay the compost
should go on top.
If the plant is coming out of a pot break up the roots before planting.
Water deeply at this point.
Cover the base of the plant with mulch, but don’t place mulch within a few inches of the base of the plant as this could cause rot.
5. The process of early maintenance is as follows:
Water each tree or shrub deeply once or twice a week during summer for the first two years of each plant’s life. After this water needs drop spectacularly in most cases.
In the spring spread a layer of compost on the mulch around each plant and water in to increase fertility. Other methods of fertilization can be used.
6. Long term maintenance involves replacing plants which have died (which does happen), deep monthly waterings during severe drought, and pruning. Pruning is another topic entirely but is not usually difficult or complicated.
Examples of fruit and nut trees that do well in the Pacific Northwest:
Peaches (curl resistant varieties like Frost and Avalon only), plums, pears, apples, quince, persimmon, medlar, edible hawthorn, apricots (puget gold; possibly others), gooseberries, currants, raspberries, blueberries (not very drought tolerant), goumi berries, silverberries, autumn olive, aronia berries, figs, mulberries, cherries, seaberries, chestnuts, hazelnuts, walnuts, and some varieties of almonds.