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Hobbit Home Progress.

 
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Bit more help the other day....
Almost 800 linear feet of plank loosely laid in place and cut too length.

Gonna have to put in some lights soon. 😁
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roof planks laid for underground home
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roof deck planks laid for hobbit house
 
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From the picture, your window is still boarded over... how about your doors? We *know* your smart enough not to do a version of "painting yourself into a corner, but last I read, you hadn't decided exactly how you were opening up some of the planned openings!
 
Dave Lotte
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Jay Angler wrote: you hadn't decided exactly how you were opening up some of the planned openings!



I know how i am going to do all the openings....  i have just not gotten to them yet. 😁
The windows are going to be covered with sheet waterproofing and insulation to get through the winter - and boarded up on the inside - then in the spring, the windows and wells will go in.
 
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Half of the outer walls waterproofed. . . Including the front wall.
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waterproof sheeting on the outer walls of a hobbit house
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Bituthene sheeting to waterproof the walls of a hobbit house
 
Dave Lotte
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Center span is done !
1/3 to go, and then onto the back porch.
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center span of hobbit home roof decked
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Jay Angler
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That looks lovely! Nice to be doing a project where as slow as the progress may seem to you, there are milestones that mark that real progress is happening!

Some areas of Ontario have been getting an over-abundance of rain. Has the weather been cooperating where you are?
 
Dave Lotte
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Had too move a stack of 16 foot planks too be able to finish the last 1/3 of the house, fit the back porch perfectly !

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Dave Lotte
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Jay Angler wrote:Some areas of Ontario have been getting an over-abundance of rain. Has the weather been cooperating where you are?



For the most part, yes.
Within an hour it all drains away, so that is a plus.
 
Dave Lotte
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42 runs of planks cut too size, and dry fitted in place.

Getting dark in there.
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Dave Lotte
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17 rows of planks fastened down.
On the " home" stretch !
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Dave Lotte
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Overhang cut.
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This has been fun to watch so far, thank you for sharing!
 
Dave Lotte
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Devon Olsen wrote:This has been fun to watch so far, thank you for sharing!



No problem.  Just getting started though - hasn't  gotten interesting yet. 😁
 
Dave Lotte
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Another 5 hours in and the main house is almost completely closed in.
Nice and cool and dark in there.
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Dave Lotte
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Finally !
Planks are all screwed down.  4,500 screws, each rated at 1,000 pound shear force.
Like the guy at work says :
" i don't  care WHAT rips your roof off - i just don't  want to be ANYWHERE near it when it does" 😁😁

Onto the waterproofing !
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Jay Angler
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Can you just imagine if you lived 200 years ago and had to drill 4,500 holes and make 4,500 dowels to pound into those holes, and then cut 4,500 of them flush?

It makes me understand why houses were much smaller back then...
 
Dave Lotte
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Jay Angler wrote:Can you just imagine if you lived 200 years ago and had to drill 4,500 holes and make 4,500 dowels to pound into those holes, and then cut 4,500 of them flush?

It makes me understand why houses were much smaller back then...



Or you could try to drive in 4,500 - 4 inch screws by hand... i LOVE my dewalt drill
 
Dave Lotte
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19 feet waterproofed.

No fancy indoor pictures now 😁
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Dave Lotte
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All the wall waterproofing is done.
Second picture is the inside of the Hobbit Home.
Lights and power are quickly moving up the list.
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Dave Lotte
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Getting it closed in before the cold weather....
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pollinator
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Instead of back filling with heavy clay, would it be practical to use good quality top soil and use the backfill as a garden bed for trees and shrubs?
 
Dave Lotte
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John C Daley wrote:Instead of back filling with heavy clay, would it be practical to use good quality top soil



No room on the property to store soil, so whatever i bring as backfill will be well draining, light sandy stuff...

It is nice to have all the planks done.
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Dave Lotte
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One of the things i have been mulling over, is how to get the 6 truckloads or so of dirt onto the 7 foot roof of the Hobbit Home.
Anyone use one of these ?
Figure i can make a slope, by just driving up and keep dumping...
Looks like it may even fit through the back door too.
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Jay Angler
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That looks pretty cool. I've only got its little brother:


(Also from Princess Auto, but no longer carried. I've actually got 2 of them, because Hubby made the mistake of asking me a second time if I wanted one. With 10 acres of a *really weird shape* at least one of them is usually only half out of reach.)

I'm amazed how much I can move with it, so I'd say the concept is reasonable. I suggest you wander over to the gear forum and ask there, as I think you'll get more of the right eyes on your question. https://permies.com/f/91/gear

Hubby and I discussed the concept and we're hoping someone will come out with an electric/battery version before we're in need of it! Hubby thinks the technology is there, but no one's executed it yet.
 
John C Daley
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Can you set up some sort of conveyor system?
 
Dave Lotte
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Jay Angler wrote:That looks pretty cool. I've only got its little brother.
I'm amazed how much I can move with it.


John C Daley wrote:Can you set up some sort of conveyor system?



Thanks for the replies.

Looks like getting the power wheelbarrow is moving up the list.
With my door frames almost 40 inches wide, i am finding that i will be able to move the old sandy mixed gravel out of the house ( gotta dig down 6 inches ) - over the two 8 inch footings, up out of the 5 foot hole, and along the side of the house.... and then move the clean gravel back in using the same route.
Then when i am ready to bury the house, move all that dirt up onto the roof.

Oh, ya, gotta get one of these.  It will earn its cost...
 
Jay Angler
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Dave Lotte wrote:With my door frames almost 40 inches wide, i am finding that i will be able to move the old sandy mixed gravel out of the house ( gotta dig down 6 inches ) - over the two 8 inch footings, up out of the 5 foot hole, and along the side of the house.... and then move the clean gravel back in using the same route.
Then when i am ready to bury the house, move all that dirt up onto the roof.

I don't disagree - but - that horrible "but" word - my safety alter ego is saying to consider air quality. It might be as simple as a fan blowing clean air in. And maybe a CO tester?

And wrote:

Oh, ya, gotta get one of these.  It will earn its cost...

I agree that it will earn it's cost - both in time saving and body saving.  Equipment like this doesn't devaluate as quickly as many things, so if you decide when you're done that you'll never really need it again, choose the right venue to advertise it through, and I suspect you'll get at least 60% of the cost back, but maybe even more. Particularly if it meets your needs as well as you're hoping, because you'll genuinely be able to vouch for it.
 
Dave Lotte
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The final tally is in.

I would like to thank the guys up at the sawmill ( rough lumber ) and the guys at the millers ( tongue and grooving ) for doing such an excellent job with my order.
They provided me with exactly what i needed, before i even knew I needed it.  By sizing the boards too fit the 32 inch on center beams, i was able to finish this project with minimal wastage and only FOUR planks left.
They could have just given me a ton of 10 footers - with lots of waste cuts, but they didn't.
My estimation of having 4,000 linear feet of planks - with some left over for countertops - was a bit off, granted,  but then that is why i ordered extra.

FOUR planks left, and a small pile of cutoffs.  Hell ya.

This is white pine i have here, so it has too be engineered for load bearing capacities ( this project is engineered ).
I am told by the miller, that he has a variety of moldings in stock and,  when i do my chair rail, he can supply whatever i need.  He currently has 200 - 16 foot 1x6 T&G kiln dried planks ready to go. As well as working with the customer for anything else required.

At 1 $ a board foot i will be visiting again, even if the price has gone up a bit since my last order 3 years ago.

Thanks guys.
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Norman Shtler
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Roadside Pine contact info
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Very minimal wood waste
 
Dave Lotte
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Temp lights, ventilation, and ceiling fan are in.
Makes a big difference, trying to warm the room up, and you put a sheet of pink over the back doorway....
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Lights and ventilation in an underground house build
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Exhaust fan in an underground house build
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Pink insulation in a doorway to help warm an underground house up
 
Dave Lotte
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One more thing off the list.

For those who are asking .... why haven't  you backfilled YET ?  One thing in the way, is installing the primary feeder pipes for the ground source / geothermal heat pump.
I would like to thank Arnold, at Bosstech Mechanical ( my gotto guys for geothermal ) and the guys in the back shop for helping me tie these down.
Roof racks bolted down to the roof, and the pipes are looped around and underneath the racks - tied at all 4 corners.  Safe and secure all the way home.
Thanks for also reminding me, that both the intake and return pipe of the heat pump have to be insulated where it goes under the footings - so the ground underneath the footings does not freeze and cause heaving.
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Ground source heat pump feeder pipes strapped to the roof of a car for transport
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geothermal heat pump pipe tied to a roof rack on a car
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John C Daley
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You could have wound them through the windows and not had to tie them on.
Just sit in the drivers seat and hope somebody is at the job to unload so you could get out.
 
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Moved this into the new house ....
Getting closer to the install.
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Dave Lotte
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John C Daley wrote:You could have wound them through the windows and not had to tie them on.
Just sit in the drivers seat and hope somebody is at the job to unload so you could get out.


That's the problem with being the manager / supervisor / worker -  building your own house ....

Your it.
😁
That's also the good thing too, since NOBODY i have talked to would know how to build it properly. ( insulted footings/proper drainage)  it's all too much of a new concept.
 
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One of the things i insisted on, was that i HAD TOO insulate all the footings of this house.
Well, turns out it was a good move on my part.
Measured the temp of the main footing ( insulated with dry sawdust on top - no moisture at all ) and compared it to a pile of "spilled " concrete sitting in direct contact with the dirt ( no insulation- looks darker - damp )
Almost a 5 degree temp difference - that could be the difference between a moldy corner and a dry corner.
Good thing i did not listen to the first 18 different architect's that told me " you cant do that "....
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Dave Lotte
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Had too make some time to deal with moisture control inside the Hobbit Home.
Ever since i closed it in, ( open dirt floor - damp scrap cardboard and stuff layin around ) it has been between 80 and 90 % humidity.
Spent a few days cleaning and laying down 6 mill plastic sheeting, and with the entire floor covered with plastic, for the first time - the house is below 75 % humidity.
We will have too see how much more it drops over time....
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Jay Angler
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So have you trapped the moisture under the plastic? Do you have a plan for getting the ground under the house dried out?

My gut feeling is that if you could get the ground dry, it might stay that way. But gut feelings aren't always reliable!
 
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Jay Angler wrote: if you could get the ground dry, it might stay that way....



NO !

In researching the Hobbit Home, there are few examples of people thinking that you don't need to insulate the floor / footings of a house, it "should" be o.k.
Don't fall into that trap !   The ground is a planet sized chunk of rock that takes a huge amount of energy to change - either to heat or too dry out.
I am in a well drained gravel pit, and i still have moisture in the dirt - you have to isolate the house from the ground - both thermally and from liquid.
If not you live with it for the rest of your time in the home - and it wont be pleasant.
 
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After cutting 8 inch strips of pink foam for around the outside of the footings, the footings are now thermally isolated from the dirt outside the building - pink foam underneath and around the sides. (no cold spots inside the house for condensation, mold or mildew )
Then picked up 250 feet of big O drain tile.
Time to call in the stone slinger !
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Dave Lotte
pollinator
Posts: 375
Location: Ontario Canada
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One of the MAJOR ITEMS that i have run into with building this type of earth shelterd house, is the topic of " you dont need to insulate" - either the floors, or walls.... someone is always arguing about this item.  As the ground is always 40 degrees and will keep this house too cold too live in if i do not insulate.

Well, for right now, i am not insulating the floor - so it will keep the house warm over the winter.

You see, the earth is ALWAYS 40 - 45 degrees F.  4 feet down.  It will stay that way for a very long, long time.
So, i am using that too my advantage.  32 degrees outside and snowing, while i have a 300 cfm blower ventilating the house - sucking in cold air to do it, with no insulation on the roof.  Does the house freeze ? No.  It should stay around 40 degrees all winter - the ground is heating the house too 42 right now, and should keep doing that for a very long, long time ....
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Posts: 1907
Location: Longbranch, WA Mild wet winter dry climate change now hot summer
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Dave Lotte wrote:

Jay Angler wrote: if you could get the ground dry, it might stay that way....



NO !

In researching the Hobbit Home, there are few examples of people thinking that you don't need to insulate the floor / footings of a house, it "should" be o.k.
Don't fall into that trap !   The ground is a planet sized chunk of rock that takes a huge amount of energy to change - either to heat or too dry out.
I am in a well drained gravel pit, and i still have moisture in the dirt - you have to isolate the house from the ground - both thermally and from liquid.
If not you live with it for the rest of your time in the home - and it wont be pleasant.


Another case of principles and context.  If your principle temperature load is to cold for comfort your moderating mass needs to be insulated from the heat sink of the earth.  If your principle temperature load is heat then the heat sink would be valuable if it would not drop the ambient temperature below the comfort level.  That provably is only where temperatures are too hot every day and not too cold every night.
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