tony uljee

heres two that where repurposed into a comp-air tank----he was rebuilding a boat --wanted to replace the on board unit that had rusted out---his method failed ---the weld joint ---to many pinholes ----leakage----and it was also suggested by some that the stresses of repeating compressing cycles on the s/steel would lead to failure----but his background re search on the strength of these was interesting---he connected one up to a heavy duty compressor ---placed it in a field ---stood well back ---and pumped till it burst-----seems they are safety rated to 750 psi---if my recall is correct.----so home brew beer which you could then barrel carbonate is well within that limit ---just another use for someone----or champagne ---root beer---cider-----i could go on ---someone please stop me.

well given the size width of that trail and the fairly rugged terrain ,the grand backdrop of  hills and the good cover of nice size trees all over ,the understory of  planted out food crop----you are creating a habit trail ----for a bigfoot---right past that big rock ---im just saying ---not implying -----heres my daily walked on path towards the polytunnel---thats a size 9 flip flop---my wellies are leaking so under going some glue repairs ----my apples and quinces from seed are nearly tree sizes but no blooms yet---great to read that it can be done and get nice eating/taste results.

when we bought our cottage i inherited a dozen old kegs --found in the sheds ---most  had been damaged ---kept the best two for my beer making, best thing ever for this ---i had 5 very large glass vessels before ----only one left and its out of service now---kegs are easy to handle and clean ---i use wet builders sand and swirl around to scour out the sludge and crud ---if it is really stuck to the inside ---i use the dairy line and bulk tank cleaning acids---this really cleans and passivates the surface of the keg----large corks and airlock bubblers ---and its brew time. Cut a few up --removed the bottoms of them ---to make large pot/tubs for herb growing ----keeps my mint varieties from spreading out to wild ---the large hole makes good drainage with a few bits of broken plates and mugs---to stop all soil washing out ----the bottom makes a  nice wok or roti/tava pan on the open fire if you weld/bolt a handles on ---Some i cut the top off with a  4 1/2  small angle grinder used the bespoke stainless steel cutting discs ---skinny ones ---only ones up to the job---made up a bolt on jig to attach/fit into the fill spout and hold the grinder ---cut a neat circle off the top ---to take an old pot lid---store my layers pellets , dog cubes, and some seaweed/chicken dropping pellets--plant food ---no more rats eating holes in bags

grew them in 4 large tubs in my tunnel --they did very well and multiplied from a 6 corms in each tub-- quickly filled each tub---they need the  warmth ---tried them outside --i am west coast ireland---but they grew slow and died off eventually----but ----big problem for me ---rats ---love them and dug up and ate every single one over a night or two ---i didnt cop on as the tops were still green for awhile..  ---so next attempt is mesh cage over the tubs

Thomas ---perhaps that most of us seemingly bypassed/ignored the satire in the posting ---and have instead responded with various methodologies on how we start up stoves---- be  the satirical response to your satire----or am i just over satirerising this and trying to cover up for my having missed the satire in the first instance

thats sugarcane being prepared for harvest---they burn off the leaf-----makes it easier to manually chop down the cane---the leaf has a fine cutting edge on it---also drive out the cane rats and ---the snakes---with machine cutting it lessens the waste/extra material on the stalk-----for fire starting my stove and no paper to be found--  i have used gorse---goes up like petrol---and i use my homemade spoke shave on a round dry pole of wood to make wood curly-- wurly s as the kids call them---but old newsprint and small kindlings are the best/easiest by far ---and i can understand why you would be prepared to buy it in .

yes i have read through that link before , but its not the path(s) i will be trying to follow---making any type of battery requires high quality purified  chemicals as electrolytes  , same goes for the metals for anodes/cathodes ,and the housing/container to be rugged and suitable---for redox batteries its the ion membrane needs high quality as well---which i think  why most of the attempts at diy builds seem to fail ---contamination just poisons the reactions-- as most of the pure components are expensive or too exotic/difficult to source ---hence the small prototypes and limited lifespans of many---i have collected the basics of materials required to build one , 100 liter cell---at a reasonable cost ---i think---for my purposes and expectations--but its not a true cost/outlay ---as some of the stuff i had to hand already---but only for one cell ---maybe two---but enough to complete these ---allowing for one to be a failure--then  on to measuring in put/out put afterwards---and then next stage of sourcing solar panels ---to then justify going further--

another open source and all about iron redox battery---8 years of study and design testing ---version3 --- is from Dr. Peter Allen , its full of detail on sizing ,and building plus the use of low cost chems to enhance the process ,he  gives a good explanation on its abilities and its limits and comparison to the lithium /iron cell-----and yes again ----all open source ---no need to recreate all the experimentation in a backyard shed---instead fill that shed with large batteries you could build inside that shed.

might be the two 90 bends are fresh air intakes