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Cristobal Cristo

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since Jul 20, 2020
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Sierra Nevada foothills, 350 m, USDA 8b, sunset zone 7
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Recent posts by Cristobal Cristo

Alix,

Have you seen/tasted any grapes yet?
Please provide an image of a leaf, aiming the camera perpendiculary to the leaf. A few such images may help in identification as they will present the average shape.
1 day ago
I do have an anvil (100 lbs) and I use it on regular basis to make functional objects, modify, repair and fabricate. I use gas forge, torches or my outside stove with hand blower and eucalyptus firewood (produces excellent dense coals).
1 day ago
Ben,

My Layeroka has more spreading branches and some flowers now so I'm excited about a possibility of first crop. With my three new beehives there is a chance.
I have also got in January a massive seedling of Colossal. It was so thick - around 25 mm/1" trunk, that I could not resist to not purchase for only $30. Maybe it's not the best cultivar, but all the best that I had have died, so I will be happy with any living chestnut. Just in case in summer, I'm going to shade it with some cloth.

Your location should be more agreeable with chestnuts. When I travell I see chestnut orchards north of Sacramento, but never at my lattitude. It's just more moist there. and the sun is getting less intense. If you planted in half shade they should be fine. I'm using some sulphur pellets mixed into compost to increase soil acidity.
3 days ago
I got the bees for the third time - two previous installations were failures due to leaking roofs of the beehives. I have dedicated winter months to build 3 top bar hives from redwood and eucalyptus with rabbet joints, oversized roofs, tung oil finish and stainless fittings. Doing it I have realized that summer and fall months are devoid of sufficient amount of flowers here. I decided to plant some best native nectar producers:

California Buckwheat Eriogonum fasciculatum 1/2 lb
White Sage Salvia apiana 1/4 lb
I have also purchased California Poppy Eschscholzia californica. Not a serious producer, but iconic and pretty.

The first two are drought resistant (crucial, because I will not water them at all) and bloom in hot months. I have spread all seeds in early February in my orchard between tree rows. Additionally I have added buckwheat between my figs in my two fig and grape gardens.
So far only poppies have grown and bloomed, because they need the lowest germination temperature from these three (around 65 F) and are easiest to propagate. I'm really counting on buckwheat though, as buckwheat honey is one of my favorite (I do not know if it tastes the same as European version) and the bushy plant is loaded with flowers.
If they grow I will share some images.

I'm going to plant more native wildflowers in the next rain season.
6 days ago
Is it a seedling or it's grafted?
If it's grafted, have you buried the graft union?
If you did, I would dig the tree delicately and lift it so the union is exposed. and you will know if the suckers (plenty in mulberry) are from the scion or rootstock and you will be able to remove them.
If the tree is young, make sure you don't damage roots. If it's older, it will handle rather with no issues.
Mulberries are strong (even for my extreme sun and arid conditions) and you are located in delicate and wet climate so even if you damage some roots, there will be enough moisture and not enough sun to destroy it.
1 week ago
Leigh,

Some pictures.
On the main line ends I always install a bushing that can accept a firehose adapter - I have 3 such outlets.
Emitter should be pointing towards the watered plant, so when the dripper tube falls off, the emitter will still water the plant.
Sometimes plants die and I need to rearrange things and do not want to use a brand new tubing so I melt emitter's spout with hot piece of steel to make it stop working and install a new one in a new spot. Easier than buying dedicated emitter plug for which I would have to destroy the emitter anyway (cutting the front and flushing out the barb) to remove it.
My system consists of:
-a filter
-main line of 1.25" pipe buried shallowly and directly connected to the well pump
-3/4" risers with ball valves to supply water to 3/4" black lateral tubes with emitters
-lateral tubes are plugged at the ends or on some lines I have a valve, so I can fill a bucket at distant parts of my orchard
-pressure compensating 40 l/g (10.6 Gph) emitters
-1/4" dripper tubes so I can direct the water to exact spot; they should be as flexible  as possible so they will not disconnect when the laterals move (a lot) due to temperature changes

There is nothing more and I like keeping it this way. When I need to extend the system, I add more underground pipes and more tubing with emitters. I have tried 2 types of micro sprinklers before, but they did not work too well due to too low pressure.
I use stainless metal clamps for all tube fittings.

I irrigate around 200 fruit trees and 60 fruit bushes. I use 2 emitters per tree and 1 emitter per young fig/fruit bush. I use the same emitters on the 3 vegetable rows which I just set it up this year.
The well pump yields 100 l/minute so it can supply 150 emitters at a time.
In summer I irrigate for 30 minutes per 150 emitters, so in theory a tree should get 40 l of water, but despite the fact that the emitters are pressure compensated, the upper part of the orchard gets even 2 times less water.

I clean the filter once every 8 irrigations or when i notice lower yield.
I irrigate usually in the evenings so there is less evaporation loss.

There is a fair amount of plastic, but I hardly ever trash anything. The black poly pipes, if destroyed accidentally by me with the tractor, I use for some short runs. I always cut out the emitters from the damaged tubings and use them somewhere else. The filter has rings that I just clean with water.
I have to say that only with the irrigation I'm finally having some crops - more and more every year in terms of amount and variety. In my area, sometimes it will not rain a drop for 6 months.
Your distance and the power of gas appliances is greater than what I planned (tiny gas stove to be used in summer only and on demand water heater) and I have used 3/4" pipe after research several years ago.
2 weeks ago
Easy in metric system:
4 lbs = 1.8 kg
1 acre = 4047 m2
1.8 kg/4047 m2 = 0.44 g/m2
10 sq ft is around 0.9 m2 so for this area you would use 0.9*0.44 g = 0.4 g

Specific gravity of borax is around 1.8 g/cm3 so 0.4 g  would be around 0.22 cm3. Measuring spoon has 5 cm3. Precise 0.22 cm3 would be difficult to scoop with a tiny measuring spoon. I face these problems when preparing test enamels for ceramics. In your case I would use 1/8 measuring spoon (0.625 cm3) per 3 trees.

For plants boric acid should be used, as borax has lower boron bioavailability.
When I was using boric acid for my pistachios I dilluted half a spoon in a 5 gal bucket and used it for watering one tree.
2 weeks ago
Daniel,

For #1 you can use a heat loss calculator to determine the heater size.
For #2 there is not much work-around. It takes time: planning, collecting materials, more planning and building.
3 weeks ago