posted 6 years ago
It does seem to come down to how many hours the tick has been attached.
But....I've removed plenty over the years myself, and I have the least amount of redness and welt by making it back out by itself.
I put a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol or Bactine on it for maybe 5 seconds, not enough to suffocate it, just saturate it, then tickle its butt about once every 30 seconds to annoy it. In another couple minutes give it more alcohol or Bactine, keep tickling its butt. In about 5 minutes put a piece of sturdy tape on either side of it, give it a little tug, it will disconnect it. If it doesn't, then just wait a little bit more. Then I use Bactine on it, and Cortaid. By the next day there is hardly a mark.
We all might have a different reaction to the anesthetic it uses to insert its probiscus, so I can't guarantee everyone's skin reaction to it, but so far this method has left the least amount of swelling for me.
You do want to be ready with a piece of tape if it disconnects before then, because it could hop away. It won't hop farther away than a flea would, but you don't want to have to hunt for it. I also put a piece of duct tape on the dash of my car to catch any wanderers, or any I find on the ceiling of the interior of the car. They usually walk upwards until they get to the highest point.
When I have used tweezers to "unscrew" the barb on the end of the probiscus, I get really big welts. And honestly, I think squeezing it also could inject something else in through the probiscus. The swelling I get shows something else is going on when I use tweezers.
So try not to freak out, try to be patient, it won't feel like anything. It definitely wants out of there, but it's not very fast. I've tried just waiting 15-20 minutes, but psychologically and practically it's hard to wait that long.
If the tick is swollen with blood, it's been connected for a long time, and in that case save it in a jar with a tight lid, and take it to the doctor, let them decide what's going on.
Mediterranean climate, hugel trenches, fabulous clay soil high in nutrients, self-watering containers with hugel layers, keyhole composting with low hugel raised beds, thick Back to Eden Wood chips mulch (distinguished from Bark chips), using as many native plants as possible....all drought tolerant.