thomas rubino

Today I finished assembling the front of the motor, set it in the car, and bolted it to the transmission.
Care must be taken in starting and running a newly rebuilt engine.
A special high-zinc 30-weight oil is used for the first 500 miles.
Care must be taken not to overrev the new motor; rpm must be monitored and varied while driving.
A conventional motor oil (not synthetic) is then used for the next  2500 miles.
Finally, after 3000 miles, a 10-30 full synthetic oil may be used.
Your new rings should have seated in their cylinders, and there should be no oil consumption.

Here are some new photos from this year.
The three females are thriving, and the one male is plugging along.
Unfortunately, my cuttings did not survive the winter.

Superb Job, Jonas!
That is beautiful, thank you for sharing it with us!
Information about RMHs has always been freely shared, and builders like you help to spread the warmth around the world!
Keep up the good work, and help others build their own RMH.
Talk to random strangers about RMHs and spark interest for another new builder.

Good choice, Matt!
From 2005 on, they are not the same 400,000-mile car.
Repair whatever goes out next (rear wheel bearings) and keep that car for another twenty years.
Do you try to do your own repairs?
Know how to change the timing belt at home yet?

What you see in the final photo is called a long block, and it weighs apx #200

Ever wonder what the inside of your Subaru motor looks like?
Following up from my thread "That funny rattle" https://permies.com/t/371523/funny-rattle-noise.
For years now, when I needed a Subaru motor, I purchased a Japanese "take-out" motor.
Due to stringent pollution standards, cars are taken out of service around 50,000 miles, and their engines and transmissions are sold to countries with less stringent standards.
And most of those engines arrive right here in the USA... it doesn't say much about our concern for environmental damage.

My own personal favorite years are the "second generation" Outbacks built from 2000 to 2004.
With a little care, I consider them to be bulletproof, the best of the best!
Seeing as that was 22 years ago, these take-out engines have been rising in price and becoming harder to locate.
Due to their design, using a split case to hold the crankshaft and pistons.
Normal machine shops can not reliably bore cylinders or crankshaft journals to rebuild these engines.
There is a small shop in Medical Lake, WA, just outside Spokane, that specializes in rebuilding only Subaru and Toyota engines.
Specialty equipment is used to properly hold these blocks to get a perfect alignment between case halves.
I was able to purchase a rebuilt "short block" (no cylinder heads) for a few hundred less than a take out motor would have cost me.

The following is a picture heavy documentation of the internal parts and pieces that make up a 2003 2.5 Subaru engine.



 

I agree,  treats should help calm the savage beast.  
After all, freshly-baked cookies will change my attitude any day, should work with a lonely donkey.

Hi Matt
All four walls, floor to ceiling, and the ceiling itself are measured.
The core and core door are not measured.

Hi Matt;
The exhaust box is not counted.
It is very small, located at floor level with an opening of apx 8" x 12".
The walls and roof all count inside the box, unless insulated.
The height of the core will change, where the highest heat is concentrated.
It does not affect the output of the Batchbox.
Peter calculated the correct ISA for each Batchbox size's output.

We have two.
A poor man one, for Liz in her art studio, this gets daily heavy use.
And my 1940's WW2 surplus vice, it gets used quite often itself.