Forrest Landross wrote:
1. The fruit trees (and a couple other shade trees) are in rows at two different elevations. Should the trees be inline w/ swales, or in the trench, or?
This depends on the needs of the plants and trees you are trying to grow. Look at the images below, first:
The above image demonstrates how the downhill side of a swale slowly stores water that is captured by the swale's trench. If you add a
hugelkultur bed into the mound on the downhill side, the
wood will store the water, and as the wood decays, heat is released. As a result, riparian species and more tropical species can grown on the downhill side of a swale. Therefore, I think it would be advisable to plant your fruit trees either on and below the mound on the downhill side of your swales. Here are some good videos, from
Geoff Lawton and Paul Wheaton, to deepen your understanding:
Forrest Landross wrote:
2. Should I build and plant them now in late July? What perennial cover crops could I successfully plant this late? (any suggestions on where to get the seed?)
For the trees, I think it would be best to
plant them around mid-Autumn or early winter. There are still cover crops that can be planted this late into the year: winter rye, hairy vetch, oats.
High Mowing Seeds provides a hairy vetch and winter rye seed mix. More seed companies can be found at these permies threads:
here and
here.
Forrest Landross wrote:
3. Should I make the swales hugelbeds?
That depends on you. As the soil develops, you will start to build humus on the bottom of your soil which is a great store of nutrients and water. Humus lasts longer and and stores water in huge quantities when it is properly cared for. While you are building the humus in your soil, hugelbeds will have a similar effect, storing water and releasing it as it decays.
This link goes into more detail of what humus is.
Forrest Landross wrote:
4. Any other suggestions for the high desert (that is getting a lot of rain this year)?
I think that
keyline swales might be useful.