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Victory Gardens! How-to, what to grow, and so much more!

 
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Douglas Alpenstock wrote:

Jesse Glessner wrote:Unfortunately we are also out of production of Sear's Catalogs too!     :-)


Even as a kid these catalogues (loved 'em!) were glossy paper. Not a great tool for the job.



Well, they were similar to newspaper in the older versions.
I'm not sure when they went to color prints - maybe early 50's.
But, YES, the color versions could be rough on the posterior!
 
Steward of piddlers
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Location: Upstate NY, Zone 5, 43 inch Avg. Rainfall
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Growing up, I would go with my grandfather onto a family friends property and help maintain the yearly garden.

With my adult eyes, I see that his layout for his patch in the earth was very similar to the victory gardens designs advertised back in the day. It made sense, he was alive during the Second World War and did everything he could to make sure his family had something on their plates.

While I garden in a much different way these days, I fall back to this memory about my start in gardening fondly.

 
pollinator
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Location: New Hampshire, USA zone 5/6
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I build my beds using culled/reclaimed lumber. Each one was first lined with cardboard then filled with whatever organic matter I could get my hands on including sticks, logs, leaves, grass clippings, pine duff, horse manure, aged chicken manure, rabbit manure/bedding, hay, home compost, and seaweed. I also included any soil that may have been dug up from projects elsewhere on the property when it was available.

I build the beds 2 each year, rather than all at once making it easier to get enough to fill them. And continue to add a heavy mulching to top them off each year. I heap this mulching at leas 6 inches over the top of the sides as filling the bed with only organic materials leads to significant shrinkage of the soil level each year.

Some of the beds are lined with hardware cloth (wire mesh) underneath to keep rodents from digging up into the beds. I found this to be most important in my strawberry beds (which are also covered with bird-netting over top).

Whenever I can get my hands on wood chips I use them (with cardboard underneath) to line the paths in between so I don't have to mow or weed between the beds. Every few years I dig the composted (now rich soil) woodchips into the beds and bring in new wood chips for the paths. This has the added benefit of being a great winecap mushroom growing area. with new "food" for the winecaps each time I renew the chips.

In another area of the yard I created an herb spiral containing all of my perennial herbs. I used whatever rocks I had at hand. For this I had an old garden bed, where the herbs used to be, that I used the soil from. I also layered in my home compost. You can see in the pictures that I then layered cardboard and shredded leaf mulch north of my herb spiral to make a space for a green bean tipi.

IMG_2746.JPG
The fist few garden beds and one hugel mound
The fist few garden beds and one hugel mound
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Many more beds over time
Many more beds over time
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The beds with thier fall mulching
The beds with thier fall mulching
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start of herb spiral
start of herb spiral
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finished and planted with my perennial herbs
finished and planted with my perennial herbs
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sheet mulching on north side to make room for tipi
sheet mulching on north side to make room for tipi
IMG_3171.jpg
herb spiral with green bean tipi, and a brick path
herb spiral with green bean tipi, and a brick path
 
Jackie Frobese
pollinator
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Location: New Hampshire, USA zone 5/6
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Here's a series of pictures showing the fall mulching ...
IMG_2886.jpg
cleaned out garden bed, with a few weeds still growing
cleaned out garden bed, with a few weeds still growing
IMG_2888.jpg
a layer of seaweed, note that I did not bother removing the weeds
a layer of seaweed, note that I did not bother removing the weeds
IMG_2890.jpg
and now a heavy layer of shredded leaves
and now a heavy layer of shredded leaves
 
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