Ernie Wisner wrote:Dave fire brick is what you use for a permanent stove that you dont plan to tinker with... Ever. The other types of heat riser where developed to make building easy, make cast-able heat risers, and or make something that could be fiddled with. brick heat risers work fine and will make an indoor stove perform better in some ways. the torus is not affected much that i can tell.
Thanks Ernie. I guess I had better get started preparing the spot in my place where I intend to build my RMH. I don't plan to take it with me but rather make it a selling point when I put this place up for sale.
Does a fire brick heat riser still have to be insulated or do the bricks provide enough insulation?
Is it important for the next layer outside on the heat riser be metal? Or put another way is the choice of a steel drum functional or mainly for cost savings? Is the cooling/heat transfer of metal required for this system to work?
I did notice from the podcast that some of the choices you make are due to needing to teach a workshop for people that are not masons. While my brick laying experience is low, I have access to people that do it for a living. Of course trial runs will be conducted outside or maybe in a metal pole barn on a concrete slab.
no need to metal in the heat riser at all; and i recommend brick if it can be gotten. RMH's are designed to use the waste stream as much as possible; sometimes you cant get bricks, sometimes you cant get ducting, so we develop the stove to use other materials if we can.
As i said in the pod cast just build one by the numbers first and fire it a couple times. at least get a base line to make changes from. i dont have a problem of folks thinking of changes its making them before they have any experience at all.