Matt Walker continental stove build

the hot water connection---top red knob is the temperature and pressure release valve --its rated at 90 C and 7 bar---too much really ---found another one rated at 85 C and 3 bar---the capped tube next to it ----will be used when i want to acid flush out the water jacket---which would require the system to be drained ----by opening the large valve at the bottom ----this drains into a pipe through the floor and exits outside into a runoff channel----the capped tube would be then opened and the flushing acid poured in ----cap back on and let it sit for awhile ----start to refill the system with some water -----start up the stove---to warm up the descaler mix ----then open lower valve and flush out the system with lots of water---the copper pipes are connected to the stainless pipes of waterjacket by truck/car radiator  hose rated at 120C and 20 psi -----as trying to find a brass connector to match the two differant OD of the pipes is not possible ----my small local hardware store just does not have the largest stock or hard to source items---and thats it for now ---hot water to fllow when the supply tank is connected and the main line in from my borehole.

for Samuel , sorry did not answer a lot of what you asked , as i had not been running my stove for very long , my cooking experience on it is not much ---as it not in my main house , i have done a few experiments of boiling pots of water and keeping them warm on the stove top surfaces to try and establish the best spots or how to use the stovetop for best effect---the old cottage that the stove is in ---is still being worked on ---so lots of dust ----not good for cooking ----no water connected---plumbing is being  done ---and i need to make some concrete worktops either side of the stove---to  place the sinks in and for he taps to be positioned----asking about making the entire stove top from one piece of steel ----this would not work ---there would be too much distortion from the different levels of heat across its under surface---even if you used a steel plate of very thick cross section---perhaps 20 mm or thicker that might work ---but thats only a might ---there are fabrication methods and techniques to deal with this ---but then you are building a welded up steel stove ---look up the types of stove made by the Amish . I used a modular type build method /construction for my stove top-- to suit the size of the glass cooktop i had found---and to make best use of the granite paving slabs sizes ---these could have been steel plates cut to suit ---but i wanted the stone---the modular construction also allows the worktop to expand and move as it needs to with out distortion or warping---my stove top granite surface on the left side barely gets warm --whilest on the right side that can simmer pots of water.  My ceramic glasstop has the 4 sections , first one above the core exit goes to over 400 C within 10 mins of fire start up ---i can only read up to 400 with my meter ---the second plate area will read 380C --third one 320C , forth one reads 260C --this drops down after 30mins----will answer some more later

Samuel , placement of the water heating jacket can be seen in the start of my build pictures , i did not make the unit ---was a lucky find ---i just modified/changed the water connection points to better suit my plan ----its rated for 4 or 5KW  according to the sizing ---for use in a traditional wood burning stove/range --and would be placed in the back or side of the firebox  ----plus be exposed to direct flame--- possibly in 400 to 600 C -----were as in the position in the continental stove this would be not in a direct flame and instead heated by the flue gas at a temperature of around the 200/230 C---maximum , so i am expecting it to be a slower build up of heated water---- and as my hot water tank is much smaller than the tanks needed to match a 4/5 Kw  plate water jacket----perhaps it will be a better match up ---of course a wood burner is not a constant heat source at a constant temperature---and i dont need the water to be supplied at a scalding heat ---50/55 C at most----temperature control you asked about ---well thats not a real precise option for wood burning ---and approximates can only be found by experience ----by using  my stove over a longer period---plus each stove is different and has its own quirks or tweaks to operate it.

Yes, Tony, I asked a bunch of questions at once. Sorry about that. I ended up being impressed with your system and asking too many questions.

I thought about using cast iron tops/plates instead of just one big one, maybe 2 or 3 smaller ones, since they are easy to find around here.

Well, as for the water, everything needs to be thought about and analyzed on a case-by-case basis, size of the stove, type of coil material, amount of water. I realized that there are many variables for a concrete answer.
But from what I understand, you have a bypass below the glass plate. After the heat rises, there is a passage on the left where you heat the water.
Is it used to heat the water faster? Or is it to provide air flow when you turn on the stove?

I will have to think of a project that is well adapted to what I expect from it and the materials I have access to.

Thank you very much for your attention. I look forward to more updates on your stove and hot water system. When you have more information about how everything works, and have time, make more videos of everything working. Thanks.

all the Matt Walker stoves have a bypass system in the design , it exits as a short more direct path to the flue pipe --used when the fire is first started up ---very usefull when the stove is cold ---gets the fire to burn hotter/faster for the first 10 mins or so---heats up the flue pipe and the core ---gets the stove to start drawing the gasses through its channels ---then it is closed off to redirect the gasses to pass over the oven box---not over the hot water jacket-----you do not want to expose the water jacket to intense direct heat----there is a danger in trying to do this ---this object here is to safely build up heat in the hot water tank ---no need to make it boil as quick as possible----we are nt going to run a steam locomotive----if you want instant hot water ---place a pot of it over the glass were the core is exiting at over 400C  up to 600/700 C .

sorry you mentioned videos ? ---i dont do those ---it takes all of my computtor skill as it is to just one finger type  replies on here-----making a video ---well thats all voodoo to me ---i would run the risk of tripping my brain switch.

It makes sense, the risk of explosion from steam must be really high. It could be photos, it's great.

hope to install the oven side of the stove ---soon as some warmer dry weather returns --then i will be able to update some more running experiences of it ---till then ---heres another stove build picture ----from japan ---very nice build---and his permaculture documentry film ---Life at Kuras Hinone

sorry i ask here , not sure if this is the right place .I ask about secondary air, i had different versions;
1 a tube through the bricks, entering in the middle of the bottom of the riser
2 a hallow channel at the back of the stove , which i covered , too cold air
3 a tube though the top of the fire entering in the middle of the port, seemed fine but was too thin and craked
Should I replace the tube ?make it enter further inside the venturi port ? or try experimenting with air coming through the ash tray 's front but near the door , that would go above the burning wood?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/THGkDZXadu4 , and please tell me how to remove the shorts part pat in the url

sorry i can t be much help on this , my stove build followed a set of plans from Matt Walker Stoves and these  are built very different to what you are trying out ,  i have no experience with other stove builds , i think your build is closer to the batch box style  ,perhaps advise from reading up on Peter v/d Berg s site or if you log into the Vortex type stoves from the donkey 32 site ,were they build experimental masonry stoves and its members would have tried out many more ideas ---they would have more valid experience and comments to offer, goodluck with the build.