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Geothermal Air Temperature Modifier

 
gardener
Posts: 2115
Location: Gulgong, NSW, Australia (Cold Zone 9B, Hot Zone 6) UTC +10
1005
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This project is designed to cool the internal house temperature by drawing the air through an underground pipe system and then pumping the cooled air into the living areas.  The cooler air will displace the warmer air upwards and into the ceiling cavity.  This project will be updated as each part is constructed.
Part 1 is construction of the hole 15 M long X 4 M wide X 1.5 M deep.  The intake will be in an area with tree overhang and the outlet to the house is 200 mm inside the verandah.  Complications to date: rain, bogging the digger in the mud, collapsed sewer pipe and access to the outlet hole through the verandah (bugger, another pipe).
Part 2 to follow once pipes are in the ground
Bogged-in-the-Mud-Buggar.jpg
Had to wait 2 Weeks for Rain to Stop and Mud to Dry
Had to wait 2 Weeks for Rain to Stop and Mud to Dry
Hole-to-the-West.jpg
Hole Looking West
Hole Looking West
Hole.jpg
Hole Looking East
Hole Looking East
Outlet-Hole-Top.jpg
Another Pipe to work around
Another Pipe to work around
Outlet-to-House.jpg
Excavating to under the verandah 1.6 M down
Excavating to under the verandah 1.6 M down
Pipe-collapse.jpg
Sewer pipe collapsed. Long unsupported span
Sewer pipe collapsed. Long unsupported span
 
Posts: 60
Location: Central Chile (zone 8-9?)
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Hi Paul,
Great project and great use of geothermal energy for cooling!
Is the water in the pictures only after rainfall? Or do you have a groundwater level that high? You migh consider burying the pipes at least 50cm deep in order to avoid dailiy T fluctuations, but above any water table.
Cheers
Lukas
 
Paul Fookes
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Posts: 2115
Location: Gulgong, NSW, Australia (Cold Zone 9B, Hot Zone 6) UTC +10
1005
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Lukas Weissberg wrote:Hi Paul,
Great project and great use of geothermal energy for cooling!
Is the water in the pictures only after rainfall? Or do you have a groundwater level that high? You migh consider burying the pipes at least 50cm deep in order to avoid dailiy T fluctuations, but above any water table.
Cheers
Lukas


Thank you Lukas, The water is as a result of rain.  We had a horrendous year - drought so the ground was undigable  and then we went into a la nina weather pattern where we were getting 100 mm (4") in a 24 hour period. We are now transiting into a el nino pattern so it it is drying out.
We have sodic soil so it is like a bog when wet, over worked and extremely acidified from the long term application of NPK. There in little to no bio activity or biomass.   The other problem we have is that the extremely high clay content causes ground shift so we are mindful of the pipes needing to be well connected and not tight when we lay them.
 
Paul Fookes
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Posts: 2115
Location: Gulgong, NSW, Australia (Cold Zone 9B, Hot Zone 6) UTC +10
1005
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In Part 1 I said that Part 2 would happen when the pipes were in the ground.  The problem with that you need to see how the pipes are joined - or at least the method we used.  There are many more ways on YouTube. In our case the joins need to be water resistant/ proof because our ground is clay as you can see from part 1 and holds water perfectly so any water in the pipes is destined to stay and go moldy and smelly.  Part 3 will happen, you cannot rush
GAHTS-Part-2-Piping-pic-1.jpg
PVC Pipe
PVC Pipe
GAHTS-Part-2-Piping-pic-2.jpg
Agricultural Pipe
Agricultural Pipe
GAHTS-Part-2-Piping-pic-3.jpg
The Marriage
The Marriage
 
pollinator
Posts: 3827
Location: Massachusetts, Zone:6/7 AHS:4 GDD:3000 Rainfall:48in even Soil:SandyLoam pH6 Flat
555
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In those smaller black pipes, condensed water vapor will get trapped in the groves and then get moldy, which could affect your health.  
It would be good if you could slope the pipe towards the inlet, then add a sump pump where the water inevitable collects.

 
Paul Fookes
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Location: Gulgong, NSW, Australia (Cold Zone 9B, Hot Zone 6) UTC +10
1005
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S Bengi wrote:In those smaller black pipes, condensed water vapor will get trapped in the groves and then get moldy, which could affect your health.  
It would be good if you could slope the pipe towards the inlet, then add a sump pump where the water inevitable collects.



Thank you for the guidance.  It is something that I have not thought about - the condensation as the air cools. I will do some mods.
In the ceiling cavity is a HEPA filter which is OK provided that I change the filters regularly.  
Again, thanks for picking that up. 👍😊
Cheers
 
S Bengi
pollinator
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Some folks have a string in the smooth wall earth tube that goes from one end to the other. And every couple months, they tie a rage and pull it from one end to the next. (Always leaving some string at both end).

You could also just filled the pipes with Ozonated water, every once in a while to kill the microbes.
 
Paul Fookes
gardener
Posts: 2115
Location: Gulgong, NSW, Australia (Cold Zone 9B, Hot Zone 6) UTC +10
1005
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Ground pipe work is completed.  Next step is to attach the intake to the HEPA fillter.  Decided to put at the intake because it will be easier to service and minimise the system contamination risk by taking in unfiltered air. There will be two pre-filters will stop insects accessing the system.  The house end will attach into the already installed ducting.
GAHT-Pipes-Completed.jpg
Ground Air Heat Transfer System in Ground Pipework Completed
Ground Air Heat Transfer System in Ground Pipework Completed
 
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