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Food forest alley cropping according to harvest times

 
Posts: 108
Location: PNW zone 7
14
forest garden chicken food preservation
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This may have been discussed already and if so,  please point me to the appropriate thread.

Goal: An alley cropping food forest (sustainable agriculture style) where all harvest of that row of multi species/layers are complete within a couple/ few weeks.

Function:-upickers could be concentrated to one area at a time.
- maintenence on that area is completed at the same time
- animals could be rotated through at peak food times, just after humans harvest.
- pest cycles could be interrupted at correct times
- no plant's harvest is forgotten about and then missed.

These are a few of my considerations .

Now, this is my point of consternation. .. Every time I go to plan this i get a huge "aaagh! Too many details to keep track of!!!" And I wander away to dig potatoes,  or something instead of getting the list of possible plantings together.

Has anyone done this?  With almost all 7 layers?  Or am I missing something?
I'm in the pacific northwest.
 
pollinator
Posts: 3828
Location: Massachusetts, Zone:6/7 AHS:4 GDD:3000 Rainfall:48in even Soil:SandyLoam pH6 Flat
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forest garden solar
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To better help, can you give some more specifics about your site:
Area in total/section
Slope
Rainfall
Climate (summer heat, winter cold, etc)
Soil
and anything else that you can thing of.

In a regular commercial/monoculture orchard we would have rows and rows of 15ft trees. Within the rows the plants would be 15ft apart or even closer.
But the spacing between the row would be in a bit bigger say 25ft apart, so that a tractor can drive down between the rows.

I recommend increasing the spacing between rows from 25ft to 60ft. With this we would have space for more than just a tractor, we could have space to grow alot of grass to feed some cows/pig/etc. We also cant just think of the trees as just human food, we have to think of it as tree fodder for the pig/goat/cow/bees/chicken, you are growing blossom for the honey and fruits to turn into bugs/worms for the chickens. And fruits for the wild bird to turn into "free" nitrogen fertilizers from their droppings. Maybe only 1/3 of the fruits/nut will be directly harvested by us/humans, so we really have to think of this space as a pasture with a tiny bit of human fruits.  What we are trying to get is a oak-savannah (grassland), with lots of big animals roaming the ground, not dense forest/woodland with lots of animals swinging from trees to trees.

So lets break down that 60ft = 15ft semi-dwarf fruits/nut (hazelnut/hybrid persimmon), 10ft dwarf fruit (dwarf apricot/beach plum), 5ft shrub (blueberry/currant),  3ft herbs (mint/thyme/garlic/cilantro/etc/mushroom growing in the mulch),  6inch to 6ft annuals (tomatoes/beans/melon/corn/cabbage/carrot/etc). we can also turn a couple of 15ft semi-dwarf fruit trees onto natural arbors for vines such as grapes/artic kiwi/akebia/etc.

I would also like to hear a bit more about what you are finding to be too complex.
 
Carma Nykanen
Posts: 108
Location: PNW zone 7
14
forest garden chicken food preservation
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S Bengi, Thank you for your clarifying questions.

To start with we will be doing this on just 2 acres.  This picture shows it a bit but the slope is roughly 40%. We plan to make one access road through the middle acting as water redirection swale style just a few % off contour. The other lanes will not be used as tractor lanes, just animal grazing or holding bee hives. We plan on having animal shelters in line with the crop row that can be used as a pass through for people on foot, animals, animal's shelter, and arbor for viney things.

I like the idea in Regenerative Agriculture where there is a plan for plants that will give back forage/fruit in the short term while waiting for the second wave of more productive/profitable/easier to harvest plants get to their optimum production.  Even if that means cutting down or thinning the first plants/trees.  (Great theory - I have a hard time solidifying what that means for me)

We plan on building a swale, of course, as part of each planting.

We have 1 other acre planted this way. We have had lots of trees die, and have random ripening times and I have missed out on the human 30% harvest on many plants. When replacing trees at random, other than trying to not have the trees that share the same pests beside each other, I just plugged in whatever.  I'm observing that if the plantings were more intentional,  to ripen within the same 3 weeks or thereabouts, it'd provide lots of benefits as I mentioned. For example: One tree is dropping fruit and i'd like to get the pigs in there, but whoops the bees are still in there and the peaches are just coming on and drop easy if the tree is bumped. But If I wait until the peaches are done there are the seaberries that are hanging down and i bet the pigs would eat them before we could get to them. Just a made up story to show how it goes.  In the end the pigs go into that area after everything has fruited and miss out on all the food because it has rotted on the ground, the pests burrowed where ever they go to bug us next year.

The idea of this being more than human food was my entry way into lane cropping.  I had, long ago, looked into and put into action fedge (food hedge) that was just for animal food and medicine on the outside of the fence line.  Having a human crop is an added bonus with the right planning!

I'm ok with having more standard size fruiting trees for just this 1/3 for me, 1/3 farm animals, 1/3 for wildlife reasoning. I'm also thinking to plant my 'most likely to thrive, with predictable fruits', store-bought trees on a grid like you mentioned within the 60 feet, as you nicely mentioned, and plug in seeds or started from my seeds trees that may or may not be worthwhile just for the fun of it, to see what happens. If the tree grows healthy but the fruits are tossers, I can always graft. If it's all bad I can just cut it down and inoculate it with mushroom spawn if it is big enough. If it's too crowded, I'll have to make choices..

I've had a nursery area of my yard for the past 8 years that I have planted favorite plants and helped them to propagate with the layer method till now I can do larger plantings of the same things. Plants such as Black and other Currents, Grape, Black Locust (where I want future fence posts or building supports), blueberries, and Garlics, Rosemary, Artemisias, Sunchokes, Lots of herbs, I'm missing some, but you get the drift. I have a stash of 4 different types of hazelnuts for doing this same layering to get more plants, but it hasn't been done yet.  I know when these fruit, but I'm missing the variety to make harvest times in a wider range. I likely need not only different species, but wider varieties of plants in what I have.

Some other details:

Rainfall 65 inches total per year, July - September gets very little rainfall. Temperature average in summer is 80 degrees f. Winter average in January is 33 degrees f.
Soil is clay with very little topsoil. Wet and boggy in any low areas in the winter and dry as a bone in the summer. Because of rotational grazing the last 10 years we have seen improvement and a move of natural vegetation move away from thistle towards grasses.  Someone came and did a grasses analysis some years back and I remember them saying we have a good wide variety of grasses, they are just small.

So,               I get this far and then I stall.  I'd really love to find the right apple/nut/shrub/vine/herb/annual/mushroom that all 'fruits' say..... early june, another set that is ready mid July and other set that is early fall.... And such.  Then I'd like to have that on map plus a huge timeline in my barn to have it obvious to first myself, then to others what would be available when.... ( I know each year it can vary, but have it be the closest possible)

I haven't even started mentioning about the same plant having multiple harvest times, such as an elderberry that you could harvest flowers in spring and berries in the fall..... Or some plants that flush again with growth with the start of the fall rains.

Another detail that's worth mentioning is that it is the dream and therefore a major part of my design plan to turn this farm operations over to a non-profit that we will be starting for  our disabled son who has deaf/blindness and a bunch of other stuff and his 'friends'.  For the purposes of vocational training, employment, camps, respite care living, and live in. I need to make it as easy as possible for someone, in time, to be able to pick up the reins and have it make sense.

Just being forced to write all this down in a more concise manner for someone else to understand has been enlightening for me, things like this usually are.

In appreciation of anyone giving this two thoughts.... Carma
 
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First I would like to say, I love the idea and it will really make things easier to manage if you can get it to work.

You're going to need standard trees and a ladder or to fence off every tree row and probably you'll need to fence off the trees for the first 5-10 years anyway you don't want animals browsing on them or rooting them up.

Why not make a huge list of every plant/tree you want and then assign it  week numbers for when it is at peak harvest,  I hope you have kept records of when your existing trees fruit, because exactly when any given tree/plant will be ready is very location specific. When trees die if it's random trees dotted all over I would try to replace like for like, but at least if you have row 4 as mid August harvest then you will be able to find a tree with the right harvest window to replace with.
 
S Bengi
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As a rotational grazing pasture/paddock it would be nice to move the animal daily and revisit say every 28day. (aka 28-45 paddock)
As a vegetable garden you would have to most likely leave the plants for 60-120days to get a harvest
As a mix species orchard (fruit nuts), with only 20% of the plants from the rose family (plum/apple/raspberry/etc) it will be hard to get 2 harvest week windows, when it implies diversity in harvest time.

Given that that the above have conflicting modes of operation, you will just have to find a balance that works for you and then accept that fact that you will not be able to create "perfect" balance it will just have to be a good enough balance.  But not all hope is lost. Maybe you can get smaller pigs that don't trash the trees as mulch, maybe you can get sheep or dwarf cows vs goats. Its just matching the right species/cultivar. maybe you will have to get standard 30ft, and only get the fruits off the top of the tree.

If we harvest from June-October and cut it into 2week windows we would get around 10 section/rows wach with their own harvest times.  We will have to find as many cultivars within each family/species that ripens during each 2wk harvest window/row. As you have seen from your current tree dead and diseases, try to limit each plant family to no more than 20%.
20% nitrogen fixers (these dont have to be all trees it could be dutch clover/alfalfa in the alley/pasture)
20% rose family (these EU are filled with pest, so be ready to spray and replant alot of trees. I like rubus, and native sand cherry/beach plum/etc)
20% nuts
20% vines
20% other fruiting family

Plant Family/Species
grape
kiwi
maypop
akebia

citrus
Jelly palm
fig/mulberry
pawpaw
persimmon
jujube
seaberry/goumi
pomegranate
elderberry
currant/gooseberry/jostaberry
Rose family/bramble/prunus/apple

rose family/almond/sweet kernel apricot
hazelnut
yellowhorn
pistachio
chestnut
walnut/pecan family

I would recommend reaching out to local nurseries/gardeners/farms/parks/university/extensions/etc and seeing when their fruit tree ripens, figure out which of the 10rows/section it fits in and then get scion/clones from them to plant/graft/etc. And even if the fruit isn't the best quality you can always dehydrate/ferment/juice+honey/sugar-jam/bake/etc

Attached is a chart with harvest times for quite a few cultivars. While the chart is from Cali which is a zone or so warmer, it should still point you in the right direction.
harvest-time.png
harvest times for fruit in california
 
I agree. Here's the link: http://stoves2.com
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