OK, here is an example......from a very well meaning guy......of what NOT to do. Has installed and is learning use of a Liberator.
Some random observations..........
First, even though they have been working on design for a bit, if this is current state of art, it appears to have problems. This owner felt compelled to install a cookie sheet heat shield as was concerned about how hot the pellet bin was getting. And with good concern. Pellets do get hot and catch fire. I've used them in the bottom of a gas grill for supplemental smoke.....in what looked to be a protected area several inches below burners.......and they still catch fire. I have no idea what would happen if a large pellet load caught fire in that bin, but it would not be good.
With no massive heat sink downstream of burn barrel, under some conditions, stove putting out too much heat, so owner was attempting to damper burn. Blocked off air intakes with tin foil and yam can to slow fire down. Thus ending the clean burn attributes. This install needs a massive heat sink or bell, as most certainly flu temps remain very high meaning a whole lot of heat from very expensive pellets being lost to the outside.
Speaking of pellets, seems to me to defeat the purpose, but is a source of fuel. "Pellet" concept however, has a whole lot of appeal. Massive amount of appeal. Instead of pellets.......use a wood chunker to make huge stockpiles of baseball to softball sized wood chunks that can be handled and fed mechanically to a continuous burn setup.
Owner did a great job on his install, with one exception. What is distance to the combustible wood trim on top of his corrugated metal heat shield?
This stove appears to have an easy to use ash removal method, which is often glossed over with most designs. Ash is a byproduct of wood heat and has to be dealt with. Remarkably, I can't really describe how that works with either a RMH or masonry heater, as that part of design is hardly ever mentioned.