regards, Peter
regards, Peter
Life on a farm is a school of patience; you can't hurry the crops or make an ox in two days.
Henri Alain
regards, Peter
regards, Peter
regards, Peter
regards, Peter
regards, Peter
"The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow"
Anonymous Agrarian Blog
Ezra Beaton wrote:Can you clarify please what the %eta datapoint (red) represents? I'm assuming overall burn efficiency but I'd like to be sure. Is there a standardized formula for calculation or does your tester output this point itself?
regards, Peter
Peter van den Berg wrote:
Ezra Beaton wrote:Can you clarify please what the %eta datapoint (red) represents? I'm assuming overall burn efficiency but I'd like to be sure. Is there a standardized formula for calculation or does your tester output this point itself?
Yes, it represents overall burn efficiency, lower heating value. No standardized formula for it, the gas analizer is coupled to a computer and the Testo software generates a diagram and a spreadsheet. Only three of the values are measured directly, being temperature, carbon monoxide and oxygen. Other numbers are calculated from those three. The data is saved with an interval of 10 seconds so the spreadsheet is quite extensive.
"The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow"
Anonymous Agrarian Blog
Ezra Beaton wrote:Thanks, now I can feel more comfortable commenting on the hardwood burn vs the softwood burn. If you could oblige one more test on the matter, I would suggest a burn where the bottom half of the charge is hardwood and the top half is softwood. I understand the end goal is to be able to burn a range of different charge types in one batch, and I think understanding the differences might help. Possibly it will only matter where in the charge you load different types.
Ezra Beaton wrote:Due to their physical properties, hardwoods naturally resist heating up quickly. Softwoods are more like insulation, and hardwoods are more like thermal mass. They will not burn quickly and will take some time to get to temperatures necessary for efficient burn rates. My solution for my own primitive woodstove is to split up a good core charge of kindling roughly 1/4"x1/4" (6mmx6mm) to make sure flames are hot enough to heat the firebox enough to get to secondary gas ignition as quickly as possible. While they resist temperature change, they do contain more energy (BTU's per volume) than softwoods, so it would follow that using hardwoods for heating should be a natural thing to do. I feel like the data charts speak to these differences pretty well. The hardwood burn did do quite well, but only later in time after everything has heated up.
Ezra Beaton wrote:If you do not have softwoods available for a particular charge, I would suggest splitting the hardwoods down much further than you would think necessary, at least for the top half of the charge, to a maximum size of 1"x1" (25mmx25mm) and see how those results pan out.
regards, Peter
"The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow"
Anonymous Agrarian Blog
regards, Peter
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