Nursery-grown, grafted trees are a pretty expensive investment to risk on profligate planting. For these it seems wiser to carefully pick a few sites that will give them the best chance, and then propagate the successful ones into other more risky sites later. Planting on a slope is often helpful for early bloomers since cold air can drain off and reduce the risk of late frost. This might be less likely if the slope faces south, though.
If you can obtain cheap propagules.....seed, seedlings, cuttings, etc. you can use these for more here and there, take-your-chances plantings. You can plant nuts directly from seed and the taprooted seedlings will thrive better that way.
If you are really serious about useful trees on any scale, set aside an area for a nursery where you can plant seeds, cuttings, new grafts, etc. in containers and baby them for a year or two. I've discovered the hard way that plants in gallon containers survive better than smaller ones.
Another hint, which might not be easy to implement on a slope, is to tuck your new fruit trees into plots devoted for the first few years to annuals, whether vegetables, corn, etc. Prepare the area as you would for a garden, by mulching, making beds, whatever, and then plant the trees right in there. Grow your annuals for the next few years around them till the trees begin to cast significant shade and take up space. The young trees will benefit hugely from the additional water and attention primarily directed at the annuals. Later, fill in the space with perennials, improved pasture, whatever. meanwhile move your gardens to the next spot. The permaculture word for this is managed succession. Trying to tuck isolated new trees into existing meadow, pasture, woodland, etc. starts them out at an extreme disadvantage from the surrounding established plants, the roots of which will be attracted to the water, amendments, etc. given to the new plants. So try to work with patches of disturbance and replacement, rather than isolated plants.
Last hint....if your soil is a heavy clay, do NOT put manure,
compost, or anything else mixed into the soil in the planting holes. Fill them back in with unamended clay, and apply the amendments on top as a mulch. The reason for this is the improved pore space in the organic matter will fill up with water after a rain and this will only very slowly seep into the surrounding tight clay.....if this happens when the trees are in leaf they will quickly drown. If you want to use humanure or something else nasty that just has to be buried, dig a separate hole off to the side....the roots will find their way over to it at leisure.....