I am going to be building a Produce stand for the front corner of our small farm. I am trying to utilize materials we already have to both save money and clean up the barn. I have a door with frame that my husband says is an interior door. As this is a shed, I was wondering if there was any kind of alteration I could make to it so the door I have would work.
Those doors LOOK solid, but are pressed masonite (heavy cardboard) and they don't use the best glue (less toxic, but not so water resistant).
If you get a really good coat of paint ALL AROUND it (including bottom, top, inside doorknob hole, under hinges) it may last a while if you have to use it now, but eventually would need replacing. I would save it for an interior job where it will last a lifetime if you can.
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O.k. that helps, I will try to take what R. Scott wrote a few steps further. If the door is indeed some form of "particulate materials," it is best left to the interior of a structure. How you tell will also assess your skill sets. Take a "block plane," and plane some wood off the ends, sides, and a little off the face of a rail or panel. If solid wood is revealed great, if not, the door will only last a few seasons at best in most cases. Especially with a modern paint applied to them.
Now on finishes, I won't say "don't paint" but I will stress that most "modern paints" do little more than trap moisture inside wood and/or the material they are applied to. I typically use natural oils and if I want color, I will pigment the oil which can create an opaque stain or actual oil paint depending on formulation. You can also use a "Milk" or "lime paint" which will last a few seasons. The senescence of these natural milk and lime finishes reveals a gradual, and pleasing effect over time. With all of these natural finishes, the key element is the protection of the underlying material they are applied to, thereby acting as a true "sacrificial layer" without inhibiting permeability, like modern latexes and other contemporary paints, which traps interstitial moisture and facilitates decomposition and deterioration.
Location: Piedmont, NC
posted 5 years ago
Thanks. The door seems to be solid wood, as you can see the wood under the hinge. Also, the inset on the door has a dent in it. My experience with masonite has been in the past that if it had that kind of dent, it would have torn to pieces.
Another question: I'm using a framing nailer to put together the walls. The wood seems to have a tendency to split (which it hasn't done before using the same paslode nail gun.) The nails do seem to be overdriving a bit. The reg. pressure on the air compressor looks to be on about 85, while the tank pressure looks to be about 140. Any helpful hints?