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Temp range along the bench: how much does it go down along the way?  RSS feed

 
pollinator
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I have already read about temperature in the heat riser, but not further, in the bench.

What is the temperature just after the barrel, after the ash tray, when it goes into the bench pipe?
What is the temperature 1-2 meters further, and then further on?
How fast does it go down along the way?

I think I never saw anything about this, so,
(more over than the difference for sitting between the beginning and the end of a bench)

How far from the barrel can I use some ordinary red brick for the smoke inside the bench?

I want to build the bench gas canal, or else I would have to buy some expensive pipes (I live in an island...)

I would start with refractory bricks if needed.
I can also use stone with refractory cement.

The cheapest for me is what we call "bardo" of "termo-arcilla", the hollow red clay brick,
because they exist in a large size of 1 meter.
I would fill them where I do not want them to insulate, and leave them hollow on he ground, and may be on the sides, according to what is best.
(I have found some local light stone with air bubbles to insulate from the ground.)

I do not want bricks to crack because the temperature exceed what they can stand!
Thanks for any experience and known measurements.
 
gardener
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Hi Xisca; I switched to regular red brick apx. 2' after my horizontal run started, but my brick is on the surface not buried to form a heat tunnel. With an 8" system, the temps I read are 1100 degree on the barrel top, 900 + on the side of the barrel, the horizontal transition area reads apx 200 on the surface; the mass reads 130-140 for the first 3-4 ' then drops to around 100-110 for the rest , temp at the stove pipe leaving the mass runs around 130 . remember these are surface temps not internal temps. If i was making a tunnel out of brick for the heat to travel down i would go no less than 2' away from your transition area before switching to regular brick. Hope this helps Tom
RMH-rebuild_74.JPG
[Thumbnail for RMH-rebuild_74.JPG]
 
Xisca Nicolas
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Hi Tom, yes thanks, that helps.
It might be thaqt some people have measured the internal temperatures?
(by the way are you talking in F or in C º?)

Your bricks are what I have seen before as "tipically American"!
I thought about some hollow bricks,
the kind we use also for building in Europe.
I just guess that brick is brick and that it can stand the same temperatures!

In your stove, are the hot gases directly into contact with your bricks?
 
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Hi Nicolas.

Well, he's talking fahrenheit. I'd say 200c° after the transition.

The bricks you're talking about are called plasterer's bricks in france.

https://www.google.fr/search?q=briques+platrieres&safe=off&rlz=1T4SAVJ_enFR550FR551&tbm=isch&oq=&gs_l=

Well, i don't know how they would whistand the heat. Best way is to try a few small ones in a fire.
 
Xisca Nicolas
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Yes, that's it. They can be used as they are or filled.

I have tried to use some (lack of refractory one to finish!) in the open rocket for cooking,
and with a big fire they just break of course.

So, with no direct flame and 2" from the ash tray as Tom says...
 
thomas rubino
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Hi xisca; The only place the hot gasses are in contact with the brick is in the burn tunnel ,feed tube & heat riser and those are fire brick , my regular red brick is only on the outside and yes i am using fahrenheit temp readings.
 
Xisca Nicolas
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?? Sorry I do not understand what is "hot" then!

thomas rubino wrote:Hi xisca; The only place the hot gasses are in contact with the brick is in the burn tunnel ,feed tube & heat riser



You do not consider that gasses are "hot" when they have gone down after the heat riser?
What I want to do with plasterers bricks is not outside but inside, where gasses pass inside the bench.
 
thomas rubino
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Xisca; Sorry i was not clear, i was refering to my rmh. Yes the heat is very high until entering the mass, you will want to go at least 1 meter or a little less into your mass with firebrick before switching to your plasterers brick.
 
Xisca Nicolas
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OK Tom, that makes it clearer, and I will first use fire bricks.

Actually, I would do this with stones, but those red bricks are 1 meter long, so this will save sooo much time!
And the surface will be easier to get smooth for the fumes.
 
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