Bob : You're living my dream ! Seriously, once again the
land deal fell through-
Lets try to move your story a little bit closer to its happy ending !
As I understand you, you do have a few problems !
6'' pipe, good! I cant recommend going any smaller, and never on a 1st build ! The length of the Heat Riser
should be 2Xs the length of the Burn Tunnel
and 3Xs the length of the
Feed Tube! so you are a little on the short side, we want All the combustion done by the top of the heat riser/barrel interface.
After that your barrel should radiate off
enough heat to cool and condense the hot exhaust Gases causing them to fall!
It sounds like you are using a piece of 6'' cold air return duct as the inside form of your Heat Riser, and an 8'' piece of pipe as the outside form of your
Heat Riser (?) Couple of problems there ! Both of these pipe pieces should be considered as sacrificial forms that theHot exhaust gases (2000+dF) will
quickly consume! With no Clay mixed in with Your vermiculite you will not have a rigid heat riser form left and it will fail !
While I have drank the cool-aide and accept Perlight as a slightly better product than vermiculite, ether could be used mixed with clay bought at Lowes
or Home Depot (80#s Lincoln 60 fire clay) to make a rigid self supporting heat riser but you need to find or make an 12'' diameter container/shell for
the outside wall of your heat riser creating a wall thickness of 3'' 12 - 6 = 6, two 3'' thick walls = 6, 6 + 6 = 12 this is partly to replace the insulating
ability lost by mixing your insulation with clay ! Yes this may increase the size of your barrel !
Your bench is a little small and the vermiculite is not needed here at all ! The air spaces between the stones will be slightly insulating ( though not as -
-much as using sand - many more individual airspaces )
Earlier you said 6'' (cold air return pipe? ) throughout and then you mentioned an 8'' chimney (!) The size should remain standard through out ! Did you
mean 6'' insulated stove pipe ? as long as you assemble the correct hardware its outside diameter is not important !
I am a little concerned that you will have to use an insulated final vertical chimney as you may not be Transferring enough heat to your thermal mass
and cooling the Temperature of the exhaust gases down to ~ 150dF that we would like to see and could be safely vented through the roof in your Yurt.
Under Your
Rocket mass heater every where i would start out with a layer of Aluminum foil shiny side up and glued to the floor, a pattern of bricks to
make air channels cement board with an other layer of alum foil shiny side up, an outside shell layer of brick set on edge and 3'' high filled with P' lite
and clay or V'lite and clay with a few bricks in for support and then start laying fire brick for my Rocket Mass Heater
RMH !
Aero foil insulation is a Two edged sword, as promised by the guy who sold you on it, it WILL reflect 80+ percent* of all the
Radiant Heat that
is radiating from your thermal mass ! Its
R-value or its ability to
Resist conducting heat through itself is a very low
R-19, this was a minimum
standard set in the early 70s This means as your Thermal mass cools down and there is less radiant
energy, your Yurt will instantly feel cool ! This
is another good reason to maximize the heat storage ability of your thermal mass the idea here is not to fill up your Yurt with RMH, but to have a fine
piece of well crafted built in furniture that seems to increase the amount of room within your Yurt !
I have to do a little research to give you links to smooth your understanding of the points I am making please be sure that you are at the right place all
these looming problems WILL shrink to mole hills with further explanation ! For the Craft ! Big AL