I built something similar to this for my 35 foot motor home that we are living in full time.
It works so well it heats up the entire RV.
I think I could have heated the entire RV with a much smaller version than I show in the video, had to address high wind issues which I researched early on before I even started my build and have had no problems with my wind proof chimney cap I built.
This summer I plan on building a much smaller down sized version and will play around with having a way to use it as a rocket stove and as a normal wood stove, I would like to be able to throw a load of wood in the fire box and have it burn through the night after going to bed.
Here is the video of the stove I built, its pretty much along the same lines as your stove.
Thank you for your concerns and warnings. Galvanized pipe and fittings are readily available and fairly inexpensive hence there use in the prototype. All my exhaust fittings and pipe are either black or blued, regularly used for wood stoves. The life of the existing combustion chamber and riser is limited but replaceable when the combustion chamber burns out. I check for holes in the combustion chamber every time I remove the ash My next stove will have a heavy steel with no coatings or stainless combustion chamber and riser. I do believe that the 16 gal grease can and the 8" pipe and fittings (replaced with black pipe) used to hold the vermiculite around the riser tube can be used, as the exhaust chamber doesn't get hot enough to damage them. Look at the wielded thick steel rocket stoves or the fire brick and cob construction types with mass for your home they seem safe and reliable.
It is the other images and videos that use galvanized HVAC duct that prompted my post.
My comments were not aimed toward you as your stove does appear to use black or blue stove pipe, as it should. I apologize for the confusion.
I have been guilty of that and I have seen the error of my ways. The combustion chamber (sheet metal) in my rocket stove has burned out with less than 20 to 30 hours of use and has made the stove unusable. Sheet metal pipe and fittings will not put up with the temperatures for long. But as it was only a prototype I will rebuild!!! I will working on a new "heavy metal" combustion chamber and riser design with all new drawings.
Wow!!! What a rocket stove!!! Do you have any drawings for your rocket stove. Maybe Height and diameter of riser? Type of insulation? Pictures during construction? Did you weld it yourself?
This summer I plan on building a much smaller down sized version and will play around with having a way to use it as a rocket stove and as a normal wood stove, I would like to be able to throw a load of wood in the fire box and have it burn through the night after going to bed. I have been thinking about longer burn times, how about a sawdust filled coffee can as fuel for your new rocket stove? Please see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj7X9X8LTe0 and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B47AuaaRhtY Mount the coffee can under the insulated riser, the flame seemed robust enough. Or maybe build a rocket stove riser and exhaust chamber using a 16 gal drum onto the lid of the large sawdust stove. Wow 8 hour burn times and rocket stove too!
I have updated the rocket stove with a new steel burn chamber and riser. Fire started hot and fast with a very good draw. Heated the hermit deluxe from 55 degrees to 80 degrees in about a hour keeping the stove roaring.
You guys might be interested in the new excerpt of the Free Heat movie by Paul and a bunch of other expert collaborators. In this particular clip, you'll see how cuts are made for the bricks so they have a better fit and how the instructor - Isaac Workman - adjusts a barrel to serve as the containment for the j-tube riser. Enjoy!
Snail-paced homesteading in the sub tropics
Tell me how it all turns out. Here is a tiny ad:
rocket mass heater risers: materials and design eBook