I made my own. Took a good replacement blade and put it on a broken shovel handle. Used it to cut the Kerr in the handle, put the blade in with a couple bolts. Worked great.
"You must be the change you want to see in the world." "First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you win." --Mahatma Gandhi
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I would suggest Silky saws. A little more expensive than some other pruning saws, but probably the best quality pruning saws you can get.
Here is the offical site with a few different options, http://www.silkysaws.com/ but you might find some better deals on them from other sites, so shop around.
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While I have one of those pole saws, in my opinion you get much better pruning cuts with a ladder and a hand saw (like Devin mentioned, Silkies are great). With a ladder and hand saw it is much easier to do an undercut, or hold the branch, so that risk of the falling branch pealing away bark is minimized.
John Wolfram makes an excellent point that I was remise on addressing...In the Arborist trade, the standard rule of "good practice" is never use a "pole saw" where a "pole pruner" will work, and never use either if you can get to the branch or limb to work on it by hand...
Hand work is always the best first choice!!
posted 4 years ago
good idea on making my own.
I'm not pruning tall trees so that is way I only need a 6 foot handle. What I am doing is triming trees with nasty thorns and to reach my arm in to cut is painfull so I need a little longer saw to keep my skin on my arms
The saw that came with my Fiskars stik is suitable for attachment to another handle. Most pruning poles come with a saw that seriously impedes the maneuverability of the pole. I always strip them to just the lopper. Millions of these saws have never been attached to a pole.
My favorite pole saw is this cordless electric model by Stihl. Too pricey for the weekend warrior, but essential for my work.
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