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Merchant and Mills workbook - one pattern book for a basic wardrobe

 
steward & author
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Location: Left Coast Canada
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I think I got it.
Since I couldn't figure out how much to adjust the FBA.  Here was my thinking process.

Bust on pattern too small.
Waist just about matches mine.  Lots of ease there, so that size is fine
hips.  My hips are a bit small, but again, it's a kind of jumper, so that's fine.

How much to adjust?
My bust measurement
minus the 'fits size' measurement on the pattern
= 3 inch.
divide by half
= 1.5 inch.

So I want the bust to move 1.5 inches away from the middle.  

It seemed a good idea at the time.  But I'm recording this in case it wasn't and I'll know not to do it that way again in future.

Next time I cut up a pattern piece, I need to start labelling the bits.  

and now I get to adjust the bottom to match the top.  Not sure if I want to bring it in on the hips a bit.  That's what the mockup is for.
Merchant-and-Mills-Top-64-Full-Bust-adjustment.jpg
Merchant and Mills Top 64 - Full Bust adjustment
Merchant and Mills Top 64 - Full Bust adjustment
 
master gardener
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Location: Pacific Wet Coast
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That looks like it has promise!

Does the raglan sleeve contribute to the neckline? (It looks from the picture that it does.) Have you any way to measure either from the "shoulder to the bust" or from the waistline up to the bust so that you can confirm that the "bust-line" you've created will more or less land where you want it? It's just that to me it looks as if the dart coming in from the side seam is lower towards your waist than you might need it.

As you say though, the mock-up will identify problems if there are any!
 
r ranson
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I know.  It looks horribly low.  I had to remeasure and remeasure again.

Then I realized that I have another 9 inches of cloth in the bottom section, and when I put the two together, it looks better.

I don't know if you can see in the upper right where the three parts go together on the front?  Upper left, upper right, lower front.  
Merchant-and-Mills-Top-64-instructions.jpg
Merchant and Mills Top 64 instructions
Merchant and Mills Top 64 instructions
 
r ranson
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Here's the fabric choice for Top 64.
I don't know if I'll use the cream coloured silk for the facing or if I can piece together enough of the green cotton print.  All I know is that this grey wool next to the neck will not be comfortable.  I should read the instructions before making my choice for the facing.  

I need to cut off a square and wash it to see if it shrinks.  I suspect the fabric is a wool-blend.  I'm planning on handwashing this top, but even handwashing can shrink wool.  Trying to decide the best way to prepare this fabric.

64-shirt-start-small.JPG
fabric for Merchant And Mills top 64
fabric for Merchant And Mills top 64
 
Jay Angler
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Granted I feel the cold and dampness of "Wet Coast" winters, so I would vote for a facing that was warm and fuzzy like a brushed cotton considering the main fabric of wool should be warm.

If this top ends up fitting you well, the pattern would be a candidate for the idea of a "reversable top" - instead of a facing, it could be made fully lined where either the lining side or the other side could be worn facing the world. This would allow two shirts for the drawer space of one and be warmer as well. (But I'm getting ahead of things!)
 
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r ranson wrote:My book has arrived and I adore it!

I was going to order from Amazon because it was cheaper, then I saw that it would be shipping from the UK which in normal times, means waiting two or three months.  So I bought my books from Maiwa as there are a few little things I've been needing but didn't have enough for the free shipping.  Now I do.  And the books arrived the next day (the shop is in Vancouver which is the nearest mega-city) and I've been devouring the books.

I got The Workbook which I'm very excited about, but disappointed that my bust is at least one size larger than the largest pattern size.  But it's a great opportunity to learn how to fit and adjust patterns to my measurements.  Most of all, almost every pattern in this book is something I want to make and wear (except perhaps the wrap-around top as I don't know how good that would look on a large busted woman.  



What do you think?  Am I right that this won't work on a busty shape?

I also picked up this pocketbook elementry sewing skills that I can pop in my bag for reading in every spare moment.  The Merchant and Mills Sewing Book.  This also has some patterns I'm keen to try but again, a bit small in the bust.  I see there's a chapter on darts which sounds like something that will come in handy.

What I love most about these books and patterns is that they are all worked with woven cloth.  

My goal here is to use up fabric that I've hoarded over the years.  With each pattern, I'll make a mock-up to adjust the pattern to my shape.  I don't know how to do this yet, but I figure if I take the largest pattern, make the mockup with 1 or 2-inch seam allowance, set my sewing machine top thread tension to loosey-goosey so it's easier to rip out the seams and see what happens.  Depending on how things go, I might see if I can find a sewing friend who is willing to pin me into shape, but if not, I'll have to find a mirror.



Hi there. This is an old post, but wanted to respond. The top you showed is very cute. I like it, but I have a large bust and small rib cage. I have trouble find clothing that fits in that way. I have read that wrap tops like this one is good for ladies like I, but I have always found them to be too revealing as the front of the top does wrap nicely over the body, but it leaves a wide deep v in the front showing cleavage (at least for me) so, these tops don't work well for me. Which is disappointing as I do like them.

How is your sewing journey going?? Well, I hope.
 
r ranson
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Right now my sewing is on hold while I do some weaving.

But in a month or so I have some plans for making an apron and some skirts for wearing around the farm.  
 
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