Win a copy of For the Love of Paw Paws this week in the Fruit Trees forum!
  • Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education experiences global resources the cider press projects digital market permies.com private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • Nicole Alderman
  • r ranson
  • Anne Miller
  • paul wheaton
stewards:
  • Jocelyn Campbell
  • Mike Jay Haasl
  • Burra Maluca
garden masters:
  • James Freyr
  • Joylynn Hardesty
  • Steve Thorn
  • Greg Martin
gardeners:
  • Carla Burke
  • Dave Burton
  • Pearl Sutton

Apple tree Injury Identification

 
Posts: 16
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
First I'd like to thank the people who helped me on my last post, I'm fairly new to taking care of trees so there are sure to be many more posts like this. I need help figuring out what is wrong with this apple tree and what I can do to help it recover.
20180411_180429.jpg
[Thumbnail for 20180411_180429.jpg]
 
garden master
Posts: 2126
Location: Officially Zone 7b, according to personal obsevations I live in 7a, SW Tennessee
685
forest garden foraging books food preservation cooking fiber arts bee medical herbs
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Part of the damage may be from apple borers. Michael Phillips explains his treatment here.
https://www.groworganicapples.com/organic-orcharding-articles/apple-tree-borer.php

In addition, maybe at some point there was something surrounding the tree base and it grew around it. Wire tie? Metal band? Who knows…

Regardless of the cause, the damage does need repairing. The only way I have stumbled across was to make a bridge graft. I have not tried this as my tree went over in a storm, before I was able to attempt this method.

Here is a link to instructions, including drawings and photos. The drawings are more helpful to me than photos. There are reports that trees that have been entirely girdled have been saved this way. Your tree looks like part if the cambium is intact on your tree. https://www.scribd.com/document/7607870/Bridge-Grafting-and-Inarching-Damaged-Fruit-Trees

EDIT to add: the above link says that the bridge graft scions must be dormant to be used. Does anyone else know if this is true? That means no new growth or leaves. You may need to wait till late next fall.

 
gardener
Posts: 6274
Location: Vilonia, Arkansas - Zone 7B/8A stoney, sandy loam soil pH 6.5
1028
hugelkultur dog forest garden duck fish fungi hunting books chicken writing homestead
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
It appears to have been girdled by something, perhaps a vine since part of one is hanging out at the crease line on the left side in your photo.
First thing to do is make sure you can get most of what ever it is doing the girdling out.
Once you have that done you will need to do some bridge grafts, just as Joylynn mentioned.

Here is a good set of instructions for a bridge graft. Bridge grafting girdled fruit trees
and this youtube  you tube bridge grafting

Redhawk

(good catch Joylynn)
 
Posts: 263
64
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hello!

From the best forensic examination I can do with your photo. It appears to be a giredling wound from something that looks like a hose clamp. You can't fix it, but you can help the tree. Any dead bark, or rotting wood in that wound can get cleaned out, to eliminate bug hiding places, and there resulting high nitrogen guano which speeds up rot. Don’t damage any live bark or solid wood when cleaning the wound. After that you have a choice, see if the tree will recover fine on its own, or further intervene. If you have the skill and desire to intervene, take some apple scion sticks, and do a few jump grafts a cross the damaged area. Its hard to tell the size of the tree wound, or the exact condition of everything without examination; however, one jump graft for every 3" of wound circumference should work. You measure out the needed lengths of each stick at its site, and keeping the stick vertical slide the carefully made wedge shape scion end, up under the small vertical slice made in the bark starting about a few inches away from the wound. Once each stick is done on both ends, you can use some grafting sealer tape around the immediate graft areas, untill about a month after the trees really starts growing. The grafts will take, help increase the flow of nutrients and water, but most importantly. The new tissue grafts decrease the wound size, allowing it to close faster, before serious rot can set in to the lower trunk and butt.

Not sure if it helps, but somethings to consider.
 
We noticed he had no friends. So we gave him this tiny ad:
Heat your home with the twigs that naturally fall of the trees in your yard
http://woodheat.net
  • Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
Boost this thread!