Are you in a housing development and if so what are the requirements/ conditions of the Development/home owners association (if there is one). That will be your "limiting factor" for what you do with your property.
If you are rural, then most likely anything goes and that is a great thing.
Septic dispersal fields are best helped to recover by additions of fungi, particularly oyster
mushroom spawn, this fungi does a lot of great remediation functions for contaminated soils.
Building Levees on a creek only works if you can levee the entire distance the creek flows, otherwise it will just flow around and erode the work you did to shore it up.
If you do decide to go this route anyway, be sure the levee is wider than the creek at the base so there will be
enough "dam" to survive a flooding event, and you will want grasses growing all over this levee as quickly as possible.
Once the levee is stabilized with grass
roots, you can add other plants and as they shade out the grass, the
root mass will knit even better, providing solid stabilization of the levee soil.
Hugel beds will work in marshy areas but you don't dig down, you lay the logs on the surface and then cover them as usual.
Gravel is not a great idea for hugels but if you want to use it you would dig out the soil and lay the gravel in the resulting pit as a base layer.
Bermuda grass is the normal, long lasting, heat tolerant grass in the south.
I use annual rye mixed with Bermuda for the base planting then the over seeding contains more Bermuda along with other, area
native grasses and other plants.
As was mentioned, deer
feed plot mix works well, but if you don't want to encourage deer visiting your land and thus gardens, it might not be your best choice.
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