Hans Quistorff

I think you obtained your objective with the live model.  The essence of what you saw without adhering to an exact copy of reality.  The way the blossoms developed at the end was very satisfying , I think because it was what you saw instead of someone else's brush strokes.

I am glad you lie the walking onions.  They are a mainstay for me; every time ai gather greens for raw or cooking I remove some of the tube leaves from the side of the plant.  this seems to stimulate more growth before sending up the one that flowers and produces bulblets,  the remains of last years growth will generally pull off but do not pull to hard so that the bulb comes out of the ground.  No great loss if it does because it will transplant with out too much shock. something else that I find easy for continual harvest is celery.  It seldom forms  large stalks for me but is convenient to pick the stalks around the outside as needed.

I decided we would harvest the daikon radishes in the Truly Passive Greenhouse. The vegetables were nowhere near as impressive as the foliage...

Learning point for harvest or use of biennial plants that seed the second year.  Once day length and warmth increase what has been stored in the root will be used to start an abundance of vegetative growth to produce the seed head.  
So if root is the desired harvest it must be kept cold and dark.  If greens is the desired harvest that can be done a small amount at a time until the seed stalk develops or al at once.  If the seed is desired then limit the harvest of greens.
Due to poor planning some beets were very small so they were left to produce greens (and reds) and I will still get enough seeds for my needs.

As I understand it the natural succession in nature is alders which are nitrogen fixers.  The leaves of the alders build organic soil mater until soil life takes over the nitrogen supply. Observe if the alders come up in cleared and burned areas in the Leavenworth area.  Generally they do not get large in cold dryer areas.  They have no thorns. they can be coped and dropped and used for firewood.   In my area alders can become true trees but only a small fraction of the many that come up after disturbance that manage to reach canopy size before being shaded out.

Nest boxes through a hole in the wall, least comfortable to roost on.  Roost bar one foot in front of the holes then another higher where they most likely will roost.

Abby White wrote:Hi

Have you found anyone?

Thank you,
Abby
abbywhitehartt@gmail.com

Talking with second prospect.

The problem I had was everything likes to eat them before they even get to bloom.   Perhaps why I see videos of Asians growing them in bags of soil on a high shelf.

Permaculture principle is that a problem is a resource that is not being utilized.  If the water is coming out of the hillside develop the spring to pipe the water to where it will be useful.  If the water is coming up in the meadow then make a pond lower than the meadow.

The closer the leverage is to the bolt the less apt it is to break.    That is why the good extractors are square.

One year I covered the orchard soil with cardboard to suppress the grass then covered that with maple leaves.  The next spring there were morels all along the edges of each sheet of cardboard. about 3 gallons all together.
My understanding is that mushrooms fruit when the mycelium reach a dry edge of the substrate it is growing in.   I pointed this out before in a post where he had diligently prepared a morel bed and no morels came up in the bed but did come up in the lawnat the edge of the bed.
Therefor to get more fruiting create more edges.