Hans Quistorff

Best if the groves between the logs in your corduroy slope to a ditch to carry any water away. Infact they seem less bumpy when on a diagonal. In the picture you posted the to logs across the road are trapping water in the ruts  with a different placement and using the wood further along they could serve as diversion of water running down the road keeping it dryer and less prone to ruts. This was described earlier where there was an objection to using chemically treated lumber.

Rather than rant about poor land management around your 40 acres, I suggest you think about your land management of your intended use. Which seems to be the direction of your original post.
When you visit the land bring as much organic material as you can use on site and possibly what is not being used at home. Make sure the wast is strategically placed with seeds where it can absorb winter water and not be washed away.  think of that succulent behind the rock picture.
I recommend biennials because these seeds sprout with the first rain and concentrate on putting down a tap root with only a small rosette of leaves at the surface then the root sends up a flower stalk in the spring and makes a lot of seed to blow about and find a niche to repeat  The root leaves organic material in the soil and the stalk becomes a trap for surface material. 3 that are prolific on my dry portions are mullen, evening primrose and California poppies. Of coarse there is nothing wrong with dandelions. Mullen is an outstanding plant because the fuzz on the leaves is used by the weaver bees to make the brood chambers in hollow flower stalks from the previous year.
So think of your visit to the land as being like the cattle that visited under Joseph Lefthouse's trees. Each visit leaves the land a little richer.

It is not being a good neighbor to plant canes and vines that tip root on a property line fence because they will inevitably invade the other side of the fence. Trees on a property  line need to have a shape plan where they don't invade the air space, sun space that belongs to the neighbor. Bushes and dwarf trees can be managed in such a space.  The original poster showed a picture with 2 trees in a lawn. Such trees can be used as living posts if you put screw eyes in them with a long shank so the tree can continue to grow around them. then wires between the trees can be used to train veining and caning berries. This gives you access to both sides so that you can control and harvest them.

I will share a small scale example to help you visualize the answers I can do.
I make a smoothie for each morning and most of the ingredients come from my homestead or other members of my co-op. The main ingredients are: Apple berry pulp, whole raw milk yogurt, raw egg and peanuts [could be pea powder]
As in your question the apple trees need to be spaced out. In my case 100 year old full size trees. In between trees I have berry canes [raspberry, Loganberry, Boysenberry, Hymalayan] To keep them orderly so that picking is efficient they need a trellis to hold them up and train them to shape. The trees act as the posts with a stainless steel eye bolt on each side long enough to allow the tree to grow around it I can have a row of trees and berries. In Glen County California there are mile square fields so the rows could be almost a mile long. In between the rows of trees would be a pasture lane with a rolling barn/pen which would have the shelter for a cow on one side of the center and chickens on the other. In the morning the cow goes out into her pen portion and eats the grass and drops manure. The chickens go out into their pen portion and  spread the manure and eat the pest insects.  In the evening you move the barn/pen forward to clean grass, milk the cow, collect the eggs and feed the chickens.
I have verities of berries and apples that ripen at the same time.  I pick the apples, cut them and put them in a steam juicer. while they are steaming  I pick the berries and the volume of the apples is reduced so I can add the berries and let them finish steaming together.  I draw off the mixed juice which is hot  and sterile enough to seal in jars or freeze. [It could be freeze dried]  The remaining pulp I run through a mill that removes the skins and seeds. This is also hot enough to be sealed in jars or frozen and could be dried to fruit leather or powder. Likewise the milk and eggs could be freeze dried.
So I is possible to have a self cultivating, self fertilizingng smoothie ingredient producing farm. In the tropics it could be coconut trees and vanilla vines. It could be peach trees and pea vines.
So yes this group thinks in terms of interlocking mutually supporting systems. they do not need to be a forest but they should not be a mono-culture that then has to receive a lot of outside input to provide the things that naturally occurs in a poly culture.

The nature of the experiment demanded a six inch system and since weight was a factor I purchased a set of plans from Matt Walker for his ceramic RMH core build.

Matt Walker recommends a bell type bench. My thoughts on this type of build is that instead of 2 runs of round pipe a single run or rectangular air duct in the bench would reduce flow restriction. The exit flue could even run down inside the barrel to an elbow at the bottom of the duct which could be directly attached to bottom manifold portion.

My winter calorie search continues. I am doing sorghum sunflower and millet this year. and plan to leave some standing and see if that will last.

No the wild birds will have it eaten in short order.  I made that mistake and lost all of it while I was gon a few days.  They will thrash it but you have to harvest and store it securely.  The always bury some of the wheat during the winter and I am harvesting it each day now to feed them. I have been feeding bird seed mix again this spring and it is coming up for late summer.

"The water can be collected by splitting a plastic pipe lengthwise and snapping it over the edge" . the edge of what presicly. so i got a bag/tarp sandwich and the water will collect where bag meets tarp. my idea was to lay a channel between the bags, but above the tarp. these channels between the bags will run to the outside edge of the bag.then i build a gutter below that to collect it that runs the length of the wall to the drain. if i make it with the gutter below both tarps i can do the same with the bottem tarp for when the top one starts letting in water.for sure i would like to put a propper roof on . but later once ive saved up for it.  

Over the rippled edge of the roofing materiel so that the rain flows down the little valleys and then drips into the pipe.
My roof has one row of eight roof panels on the south side and then another row of eight above it overlapping at the center beam. The south east corner is the lowest so all the water runs off the south edge and then along the gutter to my collection tank on the SE corner.
Yes I have about 25 square meters of floor space covered by 16 sheets of roofing. How many sheets of roofing do you have?

you used the same or similar material for your roof ? what size was it and over time did you notice the roof sag more ? 'cozz i'm thinking i could do it with out roof beams . but over time it would stretch and sag.  

[note I put an apostrophe between the i and the m after 'cozz and the spell check was happy. but it doesn't work for cozz]
Mine are 8 feet long and 2 feet wide. They are installed with one hump overlap on he sides and 1 inch overlap on the ends. My greenhouse is just under 16 feet square. Because skinny trees are available here like at the permies lab I used them across every 2 feet. Every 4 feet would hold them for rain but not for snow. They are fastened with screws that have a rubber washer through the top of the hump where they overlap into each beam and one in the middle to keep the wind from rattling them  If I take the roof off again I will put a sheet of clear plastic underneath so that there is an air space at the humps.
The water can be collected by splitting a plastic pipe lengthwise and snapping it over the edge. If you are still planing on having a bag on top the collection pipe then could be between the bags.

Translucent roofing like you got is what I have on the roof of my greenhouse and I was able to save some roof gutters to collect the rainwater from the drip edge. The gutter empties into a tank with a faucet on the bottom to water with a hose. The roofing and beams have been taken apart and moved to new property three time.

I used to live with a spring that had over 100 foot drop to the sea level.  So I have tinkered around with a lot of ideas on how to harvest that potential.
I asked Google about  turgid wheel  and was  directed to turgo wheel which pictured a vertical shaft generator if that is what you had in mind.
I concluded that to get the maximum power from a small stream with a horizontal wheel the water should be deflected back against the buckets of the wheel at the top and continue pushing on the wheel as it come under the bottom of the wheel. That puts force into the axial for about 5/8 of the rotation whereas water shooting directly into the buckets of the wheel would only be exerting force for at most 3/8 of the rotation.