Hans Quistorff

I gave it 2 days hoping one of those with more experience with kiwi would respond.   My experience is more with grapes but the vining habit is about the same.  they always look for an opportunity to go up.  They seem to be able to sense when there is something above to reach for. My preference is to grow a central leader then cut it back to force lower buds to form laterals.  Do not let them have free will. I know of a summer cabin where the arbor over the back porch was to be covered but now the whole cabin is covered.

I remove group 3 & 4 immediately and remove group 2 from tree to ripen and prosses for jam to try to get all larva.   Trees usually over produce  so thinning and pruning back excess limbs results in larger and better fruit.

I agree with worm castings and possibly a few worms to keep the soil clean.  Larger pot to always have room for new roots to grow.
Is it possible bright sun on water droplets focused and burned parts of the leaves?

I think there is a lot you ca learn from this experience that you can apply to next year.  Using your trellis supplies like you did you can warm up a section of soil to prepare for early transplants directly to the soil.  The black bags of water suggested would be very effective in doing that. Inconsistent hot and cold days has been my problem for years. I made my greenhouse so the north side is an insulated blanket that I can lave completely open when there is sun. Even on cloudy cold days it will get up to 80*F when closed and 100* with sun.  With water barrels between tomato plants my goal is to keep them above 50 at night and below 80 during the day.  Potatoes overwintered in high tunnel came up in March and are well along in development.

The comfrey should be able to come up through the mulch and if you add the mulch back slowly the clover should be able to continue.

Slugs love plastic containers because it is easy to travel on. So they can hide quickly when the sun comes out and back to eating when it is dark. Be careful not to leave a hose highway from one bed to another.

I recommend observing how much fruit sets then thinning aggressively.  Peaches tend to set to much fruit but your pollination ma vary.   Only allow one fruit in the middle of each strong branch. should not set it back. My mature trees will often split off branches with too much fruit.

My field is covered in swale ponds this time of year but not any mosquitos. The ponds are full of tree frog polliwogs.

It is about permaculture design. In your area new to you observe: do clumps of trees seem to do better than isolated trees because during part of the harsh day they are sheltered by their companion trees?  Then plan accordingly. Perhaps using fast growing nitrogen fixing trees for shelter to slower growing fruit trees, Then cut back and use as mulch the shelter trees to maintain the appropriate shelter.  Heat sensitive trees do best with a shelter tree to the west. Heat loving trees do best with shelter trees to the east and or north. Shade loving trees like a shelter to the south with morning and evening sun.
For example I have 4 types of berries. Raspberries and Loganberries will mold if dew remains on them and melt if the sun scorches them so they are on the east side of an 8 foot high wall of Himalaya blackberries that do not care what the weather is and on the west side are Boysenberries which do not get full ripe flavor until heated by the evening sun.

It seems that 2 contradictory goals are trying to be achieved at the same time. (1) Set up quickly a prefabricated structure during the jamboree. (2) Have a structure that is designed to be disassembled and stored  when not in use stand as a permanent structure.  Not that the structure can not be built as a permanent structure but that it needs to be built with materials that will meet the requirements of a permanent structure.  For example octagon buildings have been built in this locality in just a few weeks and have stood securely for decades with little degradation.