Hans Quistorff

Denise Cares wrote:

Daron Williams wrote:

I'm planning on making some new beds that I will let go a bit wild. Just let things flower and self-seed. I still plan on getting a harvest from them but I want to just let them do their thing and see how it changes from year to year. Just a fun experiment and there are some plants that just don't play nice in a vegetable garden but would do great in this setup.

So Daron, basically that's what I've done with my volunteer arugula (that I don't know what variety it is) and now after 3 years of letting it go wild it survived the winter snows and has gone amuck and taken over my whole garden area! So now I have the joy of pulling out plants abundant as weeds only they are 4 ft tall flowering and delicious. There's just too much of it!  Help!!  How do I bring this wild abundance under control?  

Use a scythe or sickle to cut it before the seeds develop. The difference between wild and permaculture is culture indicates controlled perennial production.

Nan Narz wrote:May i request fir a summarized version please .
i.e.. ratio of cultured lactid acid to milk, waiting days, etc

You are working with live organisms in variable environments therefor exact formulas are not practical.  The general rules are: to cold reproduction will be slow; to hot will kill; body temperature rapid growth.  Too little starter may be slow to get started or allow other organisms to dominate; to much starter may inhibit reproduction by the acid content.  Looking at what you have make an estimate and apply the permaculture principle of recording and observing the results.

I was thinking of a non functioning unit just used for insulation to prevent temperature swings which tend to break dormancy.

I am at 47.25 North so the 7 foot tall glass on south and west sides penetrates all the way to the far side of the 18 foot square structure. Morning sun is scarce but winter evenings tend to be clear. so I left the east side insulated. I would like to reverse the shed roof to slope north and dig the current south slope of the floor down and insulate the roof.  I find supplementing light is less expensive than electric heat.  During the summer only 4 feet on the south side gets a lot of light but the setting sun still comes all the way in. The summer usage is for tomatoes and basil.  The north side of the greenhouse is devoted to New Zealand spinach which produces the largest leaves with about 2 hours of direct light.
I fill the greenhouse with barrel planters in the winter and then move them out to appropriate microclimates this time of year.
You probably have the same pattern cloudy nights are no problem but clear nights the radiant cooling can be extreme.  So I should use some other insulation on the north and east and use my rolls of carpet to cover the glass on clear nights.

If I am understanding correctly that these are your own starts and a small size an old refrigerator or chest freezer would prevent temperature fluctuation and light stimulating the awakening of the buds.

Gilbert Fritz wrote:I finally got the IBC tank into place in the greenhouse. Before I fill it up and figure out how to connect the pump and radiator, I'm trying to figure out how to keep algae from growing in the tanks. Any thoughts?

First thing is to keep the water in the dark. I the water going to be in a closed loop and not open like before?

personal experience.  I have found that liquid pectin (Certo brand) with grape juice to be very, very effective

Back in the 1950's I was calling on an elderly man taking care of his elderly mother who told me his mother had insisted on this remedy. Since I have come to understand what is  the possible mechanism of action. Pectin is a soluble fiber meaning fluids dissolve into it. This holds irritating compounds, expelled by the liver into the bile, until they are expelled instead of being reabsorbed back into the blood stream. Another factor that I learned more recently is that These soluble fibers can be digested by bacteria in the colon releasing butyrate and other compounds that are anti inflammatory.

Jordan Holland wrote:From what I understand, osteoarthritis is the body's way of shoring up and protecting a joint that is having problems. Modern medical techniques tend to treat inflammation as a disease that should be eradicated. But I understand inflammation to be healing. Force stopping inflammation with things like NSAIDs or corticosteroids would also logically force stop the healing. If there is arthritis, there must be some stress factor causing it. Misaligned skeleton, physical trauma, emotional stress, lack of certain nutrients, excess of certain chemicals, something. I heard one doctor say, "If your doctor tells you it's from old age or 'wear and tear,' fire your doctor!" If the inflammation is stopped without eliminating what caused it, the problems will likely persist. I think the food as medicine approach is the right track. Food provides building blocks to regenerate. The kicker is what caused the problem in the first place?

My specialty is finding the cause. Generally antalgic posture, that is holding the body in an awkward position trying to avoid pain but causing pain where too much stress is placed as a consequence.
The knees have to straighten at an awkward angle on the stairs if the spine does not flex to keep the center of gravity in the right place.  I am not allowed to use the word by state law because it is reserved for doctors diagnosis but what they are saying is that the joint [arthrose] has an itus or osis which is a reaction to an irritation. Some foods are pro inflammatory making the repair process to slow and others are anti inflammatory regulating the repair process properly. Note in my signature line I also help people with magnet therapy. Magnets speed up electrons changing how water reacts in the tissue. The negative side being anti inflammatory and the positive side pro inflammatory thus can be employed to assist in the repair process.

I constantly have to move new trees out of my plum groves. there was a massive green gauge plum which is a prolific and strong grower with very sweet fruit still looks green when ripe but is strongly cling stone. it has cross pollinated with a yellow plum which is more free stone so I am getting crosses that have the best combination. The oldest grove of Italian prune plumes is the least hardy the trees succumbing to disease after about three years but it keeps propagating from the roots.

When the neighbors are complaining about the dead critter on the road and you go collect it for your compost pile.