Bob Steve

I found 2 places selling these.

http://www.speciestrader.com/Malus/buy-Malus-sieversii-for-sale.html

http://www.orangepippintrees.com/crab-apple-trees/malus-sieversii

I'd like to use a number as root stocks and let some grow to natural form. Seems like these would be more popular since it's a threatened species.

Ann Torrence wrote:
Yes, but if it's your first time and you are using dormant scions that you bought/traded and dormant rootstocks, why not do the graft first, indoors where there's good light and reasonable comfort to see what you are doing?

I don't know... I have two different answers now. I'm looking for the best method aka the one where I'm least likely to lose my trees and waste scion wood because of improper planting etc.

Ann Torrence wrote:
Many grafters will make the bench graft on dormant rootstock, then let the union "heal" in a dark, moist, protected environment for a week or so before planting out. Like wrapping the trees back up in the plastic bag it was shipped in with some wetted down packing material. If you aren't going to be there to monitor the trees where they are going, you could 1) plant in buckets until the graft heals well (several weeks), 2) use really short pieces of scion - I heard one of Jack Spirko's podcasts with the owner of Kuffel Creek in California who uses scions only one bud in length so that there is less chance of mechanical or wind breakage and/or 3) make the grafts at your kitchen table a week before you head off to the property to plant them. Maybe provide the joint with some extra support, wind protection.

There are a lot of ways to skin this cat, all will work. You can optimize your process later once you have some successes.

I'll add these suggestions to the list but I'm hoping more people reply. I didn't know I could graft to dormant rootstock and leave it sit. I saw someone do this on YouTube and many of the commenters laughed him out of town.

Ann Torrence wrote:
Either should work. It might be worth moving it but leaving it as a pollinator for your other apples. Crabs tend to bloom longer and overlap the short bloom windows of more demanding varieties. A little extra insurance until you know your chosen 20 have taken and fill each others' pollen needs.

There are a number of crap apples along the fence on the property line so I'm not worried about the pollinator issue. These trees have probably been growing in the area for hundreds of years. There used to be edible crab apple and a few other crab varieties on this land but they were all cut down. All that remains are these tuff thorny trees which produce marble sized red fruit. I've saved some seed and hope to get some sprouted soon also. This particular tree I'm talking about sits in water in fall, the water freezes until spring and then it sits in water again until summer heat dries out the ground more. But it is always in water or wet soil. It's also growing in heavy clay and shade... So that probably means this is a special tree. I've seen a few methods for cloning crab apple from cuttings so I may try that instead of grafting. Do you think it's best to do clones from where the tree is or will the tree lose it's tuffness if I move it and attempt to clone it from the new location?

Ann Torrence wrote:
I can't think of an apple that "enjoys" shade. But if it produces crabs, it would likely produce more desirable apples. If the tree isn't useful to you now, what's the harm in experimenting with some chip grafting this summer? That doesn't require a drastic revision of the existing tree to try out. Or if you have the space, leave this one for the birds?

Yeah I forgot the quotation marks. I'm not sure if this one produced fruit last year, it seems like they're all on their own time table. I know 2 trees dropped apples but I don't think they all do every year. This is probably because of shade issues (and other issues...) so that's why I'm wondering if there are types of apples which don't need as much sun as others.

John Wolfram wrote:waiting a while

A week? Or longer?

This will be my first year grafting... Is it possible to plant my rootstocks in buckets, do the graft and then plant them in the woods? Or is it best to plant the rootstocks in the ground and do the grafts right then? I have to drive 2 hours to one site and it may take a bit longer for the ground to finish thawing there. At home I need to plant trees in prepared mounds because of excess water in spring so it'll take a while to prepare each area. Either way, getting them in buckets will give me some extra time but if it's not recommended I won't do it... I need to do about 20 grafts.

Another question I have is about topworking a hardy crab apple tree I found growing in the brush. The problem is that I need to dig it out and replant it first... Is it best to wait until it re-establishes itself after replanting (say for a year) or can I do this type of graft right after replanting?

Final question is about topworking another crab apple tree. This tree doesn't get much sun but it is 20 feet tall and over 30 years old. I think it gets most of it's spring/summer sun at sunrise and then towards sunset. Is there a specific kind or kinds of apple that I could graft to this? One that enjoys shade? It might need to be bark grafted... I'll take a picture of that one.

Thanks.

I don't know a whole lot about beekeeping but I do wonder why no one has contributed. Maybe that's why... Then again, maybe bees are more expensive in Germany.

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/no-bees-no-food

It's a shame that this woman has not received a dime. She is doing A LOT of work.

"This campaign will receive all funds raised even if it does not reach its goal."

Maybe we won't be able to help her get the total funds she needs (though, I don't see why not considering the connections people have here) but I think a large portion of it is doable.

Please share this project through social media etc.

It's suppose to be anatolian white cherry imported from Turkey. I don't have any info on how they were grown...but If they ever produce fruit I'll find out what they really are. This one looks like a bush but used to look like a normal tree...the other one looks like a tree again now.

My camera is finally working again.

This is it... I imagine I should trim it but I'm no expert on what should be done. The other tree looks pretty much normal again.

I planted a couple of anatolian cherry trees last winter but they were ravaged by animals down to 3-6 inches of wood. They were both 4-5 feet tall by the end of summer. Now one seems to be growing a lone skinny branch and 2 leaves recently appeared and the other has grown numerous leaved shoots from the base. Do these sound like they're recoverable? I'm a beginner and don't know what the hell I'm doing really. I'll post a couple pictures later today. Thanks.

I need help identifying the problems here... I think I have a variety of blight and I need to know what I need to do asap. Thanks.

Apple:



Basil:







Bean:



Potatoes:





Squash:

(stem is flat and splitting)



I also had lettuce that looked like this (not my picture):



Should I pull out the entire root system? I harvested a few bucket fulls then it grew back covered in tiny white specks and brown spots along with the same damage under the leaves. Right now I have them cut all the way down...