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Scott Perkins

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since Nov 14, 2012
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Recent posts by Scott Perkins

Well good for you Dan.  I can tell that you like myself will eat the results no matter how much deviation from optimum the process is.  Someday you will hit the lottery and make a batch so good that you will want to recreate it exactly.... but you wont be able to remember the exact details and you will cuss.   You may think this humorous but I am serious....  I have twenty pet ducks on a pond free ranging and I regularly feed them a 3 or 4 grain "chicken scratch" ... remember I said animal feed ? ? ?    Well the 4 grain super scratch is cracked corn, chopped wheat berries, milo, and hulled sunflower seed.  Yep... works pretty well with the black beans and dark red kidney beans which are the only two beans I cook now due to the antioxidants that come from the color of the beans.  
7 months ago
Dan-  I am excited for you.  I have been preparing these quick nutritious meals for bachelors for about 15 years now.   My recommendation is that you immediately get a smallish spiral bound notebook and log every thing you do regarding ingredients used and precise amounts and cooking times/cooling method etc.   You will definitely find that different beans require different cooking times along with
different grains etc.  Again BROWN RICE is the best to cook because it takes the longest.  Cracked corn ( as in animal feed) works pretty
good... Cornmeal is too fine and results in polenta or grits which may be what you want.
Lastly as you are finding that pressure cooking/canning neuters the spices... I would have you consider adding the spices to flavor after cooking.  That is not that hard to sprinkle black pepper, salt, garlic or onion powder etc just prior to eating.   Lastly... dont forget MEAT.  Raw Ham or pork or BACON or chicken breast
chunks added to your dry beans and grains impart great flavor and variety to your dish.
The 2nd "last" thing as you are seeing is that you are finishing up with a LOT of air in the jars after processing....   This is due to the beans and grains soaking up the water.  Fill the jars to absolutely overflowing with water and you will still have an inch of air or more after processing in the jar.

Thanks for making me laugh when you mentioned using the spoon as a pry bar as it reminded me of
my early mistakes in adding too much dried beans and grains.

I have let others taste my handiwork and I have a good buddy who swears my beans were the best ever and that particular batch was flavored with pickle juice poured out of a dill pickle jar.
That added a little garlic taste but mostly it was the vinegar I think that gave the beans a great taste.
7 months ago
If you can manage to keep the wood dry it will last a few thousand years. Rot resistant wood is needed when you dont think you can keep it dry.
7 months ago
I think essentially we are talking about timber frame construction that requires much less precision in acquiring and shaping logs etc.   I am thinking raw tree trunks the size and length as needed without getting too fancy for the most major load bearing components.   I found a metal roofing company in North Georgia that has a lot of factory seconds and damaged roofing panels that usually involves scratches in the paint coating at a huge discount and I consider the roof to be the most expensive part of the project.  The only thing really needed for 1st class equivalency in the whole structure would be the screws holding the roof on and maybe some timber connectors for the A-Frame joints.   I have seen a fancy alternative to expensive connectors in a project where a guy copied a project which used rope and cord to tie sticks and logs together but he instead used galvanized cables instead of rope and cord and it is likely as strong as the much more expensive connectors.

Just thinking out loud....  Did you ever consider that an Indian Teepee  is just a round A-Frame or an A-Frame Dome/Igloo ?  Alas, I guess dealing with all the triangles for the roof would be too much trouble.  There is nothing better than long rectangular metal roof pieces overlapped which could be easily done on an A-Frame.
7 months ago
Anyone ever given any thought to this ?   It seems to me  A-Frames can be
cheaper, faster and simpler and further savings might be had if some logs were
used for some of the basic load bearing structure.

7 months ago
Have you ever heard of HardiPlank siding and shingles ?   It is cementous and the reason why it can work as a roof is that it is in the form of
shingles which dont have to worry about expansion and contraction in the hot sun and cold winters.  BAsically each shingle expands and
contracts and the water proofing comes from the overlapping  .... and of course the shingles themselves are waterproof.  The HardiPlank
and competitors have mesh material or fibers throughout the material and that makes them tough enough to withstand walking on without
cracking.  Basically this is man made slate.    In your case I realize you are using the concrete to shield an underneath plastic or vinyl layer
but as has been pointed out when the cracking begins it may overwhelm the plastic below  and damage the watertight barrier.  

However, are you aware of the progress that has been made by mixing portland cement into Exterior Latex paint ?  If I recall correctly there
have been some that have taken variously jute,  polyester, window screen and cotton or other fiber canvas etc and put this material on a roof  over nearly
anything and put several coatings of the latex portland cement over it and they are achieving long lasting water proof results in part because
I think it is somewhat flexible.   In the article that I read,  they did not put the canvas over anything except air.  They merely strung the
canvas over rafters and painted it in place and that served as the entire roof.

Back to your concept of concrete roofs.   I believe it could work if you used concrete tiles or squares that allowed miniscule movement between
them without forcing damaging cracks to occur even if they did not overlap like shingles.   Of course if they did not overlap then something
underneath them is handling the water proofing task and the tiles are only supplying the UV protection and protection from abrasion if
you ever walked on the roof.
1 year ago
I could use a pond liner or equivalent but I would need a piece 7 feet wide and 25 feet long.   I dont know where to get something like that.
I googled soil cement and they are simply adding portland cement to the dirt or rocks.    I can do the same thing probably cheaper.
1 year ago
What would be the effect of mixing these different additives with red clay soil  ?

I want to create a hard top cover of dirt around my house where the rain runs off the roof
and on to the ground at the base of the walls and eventually seeps into my basement.

I wanted to shape the ground contour so that it slopes away from the house more and also
try to pack the dirt and make it more watertight to resist seepage  and prevent the runoff from
getting into my basement.

These are the commonly available products from a Home Depot but I have read many places
that different kinds of Lime powder may be considered as well.     I believe is already a component
in concrete and mortar anyway.   Is that correct ? ? ?  
1 year ago