first new build

Ok I have bought the 4 disc video set from Paul,Ernie and Erica I just completed my first build and ran it last night outside on the concrete for my greenhouse and not sure if its working properly no granted I DO NOT have it completely sealed this was just a preliminary run should there be water dripping from the horizontal draft tubes,am I not getting enough burn in the catalist chamber?

First of all, hello Roy.

Secondly, there's no catalyst chamberjust a continuous burn, as in most fires, exept it is very hot.

Third, please do search for "metal is doomed"

Thanks for the reply I do have more pics of this build I will send now and all of the metal is rated for 2300 is this going to be a issue for me later?

More to share

Sorry for the repete pics I'm having issues up loading

I believe Erica said that she wants everything to be rated at 2500, and it's better if it's 2800.

I could be wrong, but it seems like that burn tunnel might be a bit long.

Right, she did but.... It may bite me later but I'm going to risk using the metal j tube it is 7x7x1/2 with the inside 6x6 heat treated steel and shouldn't do any thing goofy until after 2500 the length of the tube is a concern I have I didn't think it thru completely the center to center is 24 I'm thinking it should be 18ish when I made the pipe I made the distance from radius to radius 18

Roy, if the rocket is working properly, the metal won't last long I've managed to kill a 1/8 inch gas bottle in only 14 burns and the feed tube, burn tunel assembly were 3/8, the gas bottle was the beggining of the heat riser, to induce a cyclonic movement. Yep right, 14 burns later the top had melted!

https://permies.com/t/24566/rocket-stoves/stand-mass

Aww man don't tell me that so you are suggesting to use fire brick alone?

How hot should the top of the barrel get in a properly working stove

roy kirkpatrick wrote:Aww man don't tell me that so you are suggesting to use fire brick alone?

Firebricks, clay, whatever material able to whistand the heat and being convenient for you.

roy kirkpatrick wrote:How hot should the top of the barrel get in a properly working stove

We're talking anything between 300C°/600C° I've never heard of any getting hotter than that.

roy kirkpatrick wrote:Aww man don't tell me that so you are suggesting to use fire brick alone?

I think the feed and burn tunnel are ok, it is the riser, the top of the riser mostly where maximum heat is. It looks to me like you have stuffed the riser with some sort of insulating clay stuff, so provided you have stuffed it tight enough to be smooth against the pipe you used as a form most of it should be ok. The metal form will burn out and the clay stuff will last ok. But the last two inches of the form stick up over the the clay mix and will probably melt/burn off. This will change your gap The outside of the riser will be fine, much cooler. It is the riser liner that needs the heat protection, so if your insulating layer is up to it, everything else looks fine. I would have liked to see the insulating goop go to the top of the riser form in one go. Adding that last bit later may make the top few inches some what fragile, but if it isn't moving it may be ok. This is all assuming that is a clay based mix.

condensation in the bench pipes will happen until the surface temperature is past 212F. One of the burn products is water. Cob is partly insulating and so will allow the flue surface to rise more than when it is bare. Also a normal burn is 3 hours or more.

Great info all the "insulation" is a perlight/refractory mix if that aids in any picking of my design

ANNNND I was considering a base of rocks at the bench tubes and a two to four inch concrete pour verses cob i.e I have a friend that has a concrete biz will this be a poor decision?