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Outdoor Cookstove with TEN BRICKS

 
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I plan to reproduce this stove with much larger concrete CAP BLOCKS.   I wonder if the length, width, thickness ratios of the concrete blocks
are the same  ?
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Scott Perkins
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I will be looking for two approximately eight inches long pieces of steel rebar or small steel pipe to set over the fire to hold the cooking pans so that the flames can blow by the bottom of the cook pan.   If the pan is large enough  a few rocks placed on the bricks and under the pan should work.
 
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Hey Scott;
Next, try using slimy mud between each brick and then coat the whole outside with mud; it will work even better.
Clay bricks will work fine.
If you try concrete, beware that it will crack or even burst if the wrong materials get superheated.

This is an L-Tube design; you must keep pushing your fuel into the fire.
Play some more with bricks and try out a J-Tube.
After you try that, then get firebricks and try out a Batchbox...
And before you know what hit you, you will have caught the RMH bug...
After that, you may find you are an apprentice Rocket scientist.
 
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Looks like they're using some sort of spacer on the back wall of the chimney. If you did the same thing at the front, you'd only need 9 blocks.
 
Scott Perkins
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Nancy Reading wrote:Looks like they're using some sort of spacer on the back wall of the chimney. If you did the same thing at the front, you'd only need 9 blocks.



You're right !    Good eye.   I am disappointed that I did not see that.       And further to carry that through with reducing by one overall  brick !
Genius perception.  I want you on MY team.        I was thinking that I would want to extend the height of the chimney by the width of a brick to increase the upward suck or heat draw .... ( more rocket effect )  and that might involve cutting or breaking a brick or two to make it all fit.

Regards concrete block.   I have learned that the culprit is that concrete absorbs moisture  and when heated will break apart from the steam generated internally.    What helps immensely is to always cover the concrete blocks and never let them get rained on.   They may not last indefinitely  but they will get you through  a couple of good fires.
 
Scott Perkins
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When I  first saw these pictures on the internet,  I  realized I had a few dozen left over concrete cap blocks  leftover from building a
retaining wall at one of my  rental properties.   I will have to retrieve them whenever I visit the rental property again.   In the meantime
I had a concrete CAP BLOCK at home and I took the measurements.    
Thickness   3/5/8 "
Width          7 1/2"
Length         15 5/8"

I will try to build one and when  I do I will try to take pictures.   When I look at the numbers I realize that the creators of the Concrete Blocks
were trying to approach a perfect 4 x 8 x 16  inch  component inclusive of the mortar placement that would be used in   construction of concrete
block walls......  remembering that what we are working with are the CAP blocks only.

Scott in Atlanta

 
Scott Perkins
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Nancy Reading wrote:Looks like they're using some sort of spacer on the back wall of the chimney. If you did the same thing at the front, you'd only need 9 blocks.




Nancy -  I just got an idea that if we did not have a space on the front and back that the front and back bricks might have 3/4 inch space built in
to allow the flame to shoot out along the sides of the cooking pot if it is big enough to straddle the highest prominent (left and right) blocks.

 
Nancy Reading
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Scott Perkins wrote: that the front and back bricks might have 3/4 inch space built in
to allow the flame to shoot out along the sides of the cooking pot if it is big enough to straddle the highest prominent (left and right) blocks.


I suspect you'd lose the chimney effect a bit...

Thinking about the design above - haivng the bricks sideways like that allows the pan to be supported part off the flame path so reduces the heating if neccessary whilst cooking, so it could be quite a practical feature.
 
Scott Perkins
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Nancy Reading wrote:

Scott Perkins wrote: that the front and back bricks might have 3/4 inch space built in
to allow the flame to shoot out along the sides of the cooking pot if it is big enough to straddle the highest prominent (left and right) blocks.


I suspect you'd lose the chimney effect a bit...

Thinking about the design above - haivng the bricks sideways like that allows the pan to be supported part off the flame path so reduces the heating if neccessary whilst cooking, so it could be quite a practical feature.



Check out my recent entry where I did use the much larger concrete CAP BLOCKS  The dimensions were just right for only 9 blocks to create the same stove design.   I think three more blocks to extend the chimney would be useful to enhance the chimney draft effect.

 
Nancy Reading
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Scott Perkins wrote:Check out my recent entry where I did use the much larger concrete CAP BLOCKS  The dimensions were just right for only 9 blocks to create the same stove design.   I think three more blocks to extend the chimney would be useful to enhance the chimney draft effect.


this one? Yes, those blocks are just a bit thicker so work even better. I'm not sure the concrete will last as long as the clay bricks, but fine for a quick set up.
 
I agree. Here's the link: http://stoves2.com
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