• Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education skip experiences global resources cider press projects digital market permies.com pie forums private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • Nancy Reading
  • Carla Burke
  • r ranson
  • John F Dean
  • paul wheaton
  • Pearl Sutton
stewards:
  • Jay Angler
  • Liv Smith
  • Leigh Tate
master gardeners:
  • Christopher Weeks
  • Timothy Norton
gardeners:
  • thomas rubino
  • Jeremy VanGelder
  • Maieshe Ljin

Wood Burning Stove Pipe Angle Inside or Outside?

 
Posts: 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hello!

I have a question(s) about installing a new woodturning stove in a room that if I had the pipe exit the roof straight up (ideally), it would be too close to the second story eve (needs to be at least 10 feet from eve). Or needs to be 2 feet above the highest roof line (my roof it pitched and would require a VERY tall stack!).

I've included a couple rough sketches to help illustrate.

If I cant exit the ceiling straight up, plan B would be adding an angle (30/45) out to exit the ceiling clearing the 10 rule for the roof above.

Question: Any other options as far as piping? (besides moving the stove "really ties the room together" where it is).

My stove (when it gets here) has an option to go out the back, but once out side, I will still need to angle it away from eve. Thinking IF I can do the angle OUTSIDE, I can have it travel through my Eve / soffit?

Going crazy. Any help would be much appreciated.
01.jpg
[Thumbnail for 01.jpg]
02.jpg
[Thumbnail for 02.jpg]
03.jpg
[Thumbnail for 03.jpg]
04.jpg
[Thumbnail for 04.jpg]
05.jpg
[Thumbnail for 05.jpg]
 
master steward
Posts: 6993
Location: southern Illinois, USA
2555
goat cat dog chicken composting toilet food preservation pig bee solar wood heat homestead
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
The inside design allows you to retain added heat. Inside also allows more protection from the elements. For safety, I favor the outside design.... but add a clean out.  Yes, I know you can dismantle the thing, but a clean out will make life easier.
 
Posts: 87
Location: Northern Ontario
21
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
The pipe on the cookstove in my kitchen rises about 2 feet up above the stove, before turning 45 degrees and running along the wall for about 7 feet, before turning another 45 through the wall to meet the chimney. I believe it is to code around here (as long as your pipe is far enough from the wall and has proper heat shielding).

Likely the stove won't always draw as well because of the extra turns, however, I have all of that extra pipe in house radiating heat. I quite like how it looks as well.

-For you it may be an issue of clearance above your windows. How much space is there between the top of the window and the ceiling?
 
Sam Everett
Posts: 3
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Thanks John for your speedy reply!

So...

For better heat, keep it inside and live with that Dr Seuss angle.
For safety, pump it outside?

going through a soffit shouldn't be a problem.

I heard that the outside stacks have less angle options. Still looking for a 45(ish).

Thanks!

 
Sam Everett
Posts: 3
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
thanks @JRosseau

"How much space is there between the top of the window and the ceiling?"

Inside window / back wall is 18" from top of window to ceiling (then it angles up from there)

Outside window from top of window to eve is (roughly 24)  (then it angles down from there)

Eve is roughly 24 deep (+gutters)

 
John F Dean
master steward
Posts: 6993
Location: southern Illinois, USA
2555
goat cat dog chicken composting toilet food preservation pig bee solar wood heat homestead
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I do need to add that if you do run things outside, be sure that the pipe/chimney is adequately insulated to maintain a high enough temp for excessive creosote not to form.
 
  • Likes 4
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I agree about keeping the pipe inside to benefit from the radiated heat thus avoiding excess creosote build up (an outside pipe will do that). You can make an attractive heat shield to help keep the pipe closer to your inside wall. I prefer a heat shield which will cover a big section of the wall rather than an angled heat shield following the pipe.
There are amazing designs for the heat shield to make it attractive as well as creating a natural draft to move even more heat from the heat shield up into the room. The best design I’ve seen here in Montana had a 3 1/2 inch air gap behind a layer of concrete wall board. The board was overlayed with thin-set then small, dark and colored river rock created a leaping trout design. All around the trout, lighter colored river rock and quartz created a river effect like water. I can see you creating two focus points with the pipe angling between them. This will then help the pipe look like a natural element within the heat shield.
This heat shield met the floor yet six inch intended vent holes existed the entire perimeter with one longer rock sitting sideways between each vent. All those vents allowed for cool air to enter at floor level then gradually warm as it would rise. A gentle airflow could be felt after the rocks were all warmed sufficiently.
 
master pollinator
Posts: 4999
Location: Canadian Prairies - Zone 3b
1354
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Why 10' from the eve? Are you using single wall black stove pipe?

A proper double-wall insulated chimney doesn't need anything near that much clearance. Your stove will run better and cleaner. I wouldn't use anything else for a house.
 
pollinator
Posts: 2549
Location: RRV of da Nort, USA
726
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Why 10' from the eve? Are you using single wall black stove pipe?

A proper double-wall insulated chimney doesn't need anything near that much clearance. Your stove will run better and cleaner. I wouldn't use anything else for a house.



If I'm reading his text right, I think he means 10' from the second story eve *unless* the exterior chimney cap is higher (by at least 2 ft) above that eve line.  I'm familiar with these codes as well, even for class A exterior chimney.  Seems to be more about spark/ember concerns that could lodge into and ignite some section of roofing rather than unwanted heat transfer from chimney to potentially combustible wall.
 
Douglas Alpenstock
master pollinator
Posts: 4999
Location: Canadian Prairies - Zone 3b
1354
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

John Weiland wrote:If I'm reading his text right, I think he means 10' from the second story eve *unless* the exterior chimney cap is higher (by at least 2 ft) above that eve line.  I'm familiar with these codes as well, even for class A exterior chimney.  Seems to be more about spark/ember concerns that could lodge into and ignite some section of roofing rather than unwanted heat transfer from chimney to potentially combustible wall.


Ah! Thanks John. I think I misread the OP.
 
Seriously? That's what you're going with? I prefer this tiny ad:
the permaculture bootcamp in winter (plus half-assed holidays)
https://permies.com/t/149839/permaculture-projects/permaculture-bootcamp-winter-assed-holidays
reply
    Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic