How Permies works: https://permies.com/wiki/34193/permies-works-links-threads
My projects on Skye: The tree field, Growing and landracing, perennial polycultures, "Don't dream it - be it! "
Life on a farm is a school of patience; you can't hurry the crops or make an ox in two days.
Henri Alain
Nancy Reading wrote:I thought if it was really good biochar (no ash) then it didn't affect the pH?
Mart Hale wrote:I would start with a glass of water test the PH, then add biochar, then test the restult.
There is difference in biochar based upon what you started with. I found out that chicken manure once chared still has it's nitrogen levels. ( not that I would want the smell of chicken manure being chared ;-)
Phil Stevens wrote: The IBI biochar classification standard has a set of liming classes that are used to define how well a particular biochar can substitute for lime when applied to soil.
Gray Henon wrote:
Mart Hale wrote:I would start with a glass of water test the PH, then add biochar, then test the restult.
There is difference in biochar based upon what you started with. I found out that chicken manure once chared still has it's nitrogen levels. ( not that I would want the smell of chicken manure being chared ;-)
Then how to convert to lbs per acre?
Life on a farm is a school of patience; you can't hurry the crops or make an ox in two days.
Henri Alain
Mart Hale wrote:
Gray Henon wrote:
Mart Hale wrote:I would start with a glass of water test the PH, then add biochar, then test the restult.
There is difference in biochar based upon what you started with. I found out that chicken manure once chared still has it's nitrogen levels. ( not that I would want the smell of chicken manure being chared ;-)
Then how to convert to lbs per acre?
Now that is a different question from the PH of biochar.
From one of my books I have read "The Intelligent Gardener" by Steve Solomon, he recommends that the first step is a soil test, you can't really know what your soil has until you have done the soil test. After that is done then you can move forward to add what the soil needs.
I recommend getting a soil test, then make changes based on those test results.
Gray Henon wrote:I got a soil test. It says I need 1.5 tons per acre of lime. I need to figure out how much biochar it would take to meet this requirement.
If [kilned] lime is left exposed to the atmosphere, it will, over time, revert back to calcium carbonate by absorbing carbon dioxide from the air:
(IV) Ca(OH)2(s) + CO2(g) <-----> CaCO3(s) + H2O(l)
In other words, the soluble material, slaked lime, if left exposed to the air, converts to the insoluble material limestone. What we have here is the first cement! Modern cements are more sophisticated and "cure" more quickly than slaked lime, but lime continues to be a major component of modern cement. When quicklime is painted on wood, it forms a rock-hard white coating called whitewash.
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