Trent Drummond wrote:The electrical part won't be an issue, after I gain some knowledge of how the system works, which is why I am here.
Haha, this sounds like you are planning on not having any difficulty at all pulling yourself up by your boot-straps, once you get a good grip on them.
600 feet of head is quite a lot, and remember that the pump needs to to add at least another 100 "feet" to pressurize your well tank at the top of the hill to get the 50 or so PSI you want for your house water pressure. Hopefully the pump is still sound, and they are generally built to last, as hoisting them out of a well at the end of hundreds of feet of pipe is a real bitch. Thankfully, you will have easy access to it. If it is toast, you will need to get one that is rated for about 700 feet of head, which I am starting to think is going to be a bit of a specialty item, and maybe a little bit harder to track down.
As for getting the electrical side of things figured out, I think I would honestly suggest you contact a
local well driller or pump service shop unless you are willing to put in some time learning about electric motors and well pumps. They would know what they were looking at, and could probably have it up and running in no time, if it does indeed still work. The wiring looks terrible, and I see several wires that have been simply snipped off, so I am wondering what happened there. It is most likely a 220v pump with the start capacitors and some sort of control box on the outside of the tank. Those long skinny pumps are designed to sit inside a well casing, so they are designed to cool the motor by pulling water past the motor on the way towards the intake. It is hard to see in the photo, but the pump itself
should be inside a sleeve of some sort, or else being mounted in a large tank, there would not be
enough cooling flow and the motor would quickly burn out.
Speaking of burning out, those pumps must not be run dry! This is where the control box comes in, and in a big tank like this, you would want a float switch of some sort. If the pump can empty the tank faster than the spring can fill it, you need there to be some way to force the pump to stop running when the water level gets too low. Again, a well pump specialist would be the person to talk to about that; I have never installed a well pump with a control box. I have a small 400 gallon cistern for my pump, but I am running it off an inverter, so I control the inverter with my float switch, rather than the pump. It looks like a pretty big tank, so hopefully the spring will be able to keep it mostly full, and you will not have to deal with having it fill another cistern at the top of the hill or anything like that.
I agree that the rusted seam around the neck is a little concerning. Also, I dont really know anything about steel tanks, as everything has gone over to plastic now. There are probably plastic membranes thats are rated for potable water that could be custom made to your tanks dimensions. Honestly, I would wonder a little bit about what the steel was painted with, and if it is starting to rust or flake off inside, I am not sure I would be wild about having that stuff floating around in my drinking water.
Anyway, hopefully some of that helps point you in the right direction, sorry to hear about your well drying up.