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windbreaks and landscaping for zone 5a

 
pollinator
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Location: 3,000 ft up in the mountains of the Mid Atlantic, USA
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Planning ahead for next spring's landscaping and tree windbreak plantings. We get 75+ mph winter winds that roar down off 5,000 ft mountain tops, cruise across a short valley, across our 35 acre pasture and then WHUMP against new house.

So far my research has included the distance windbreaks need to be from house so I'm not creating future possible downed tree issues on our roof, distance windbreak has to be from house so wind doesn't skip over the windbreak and still slam the house, choosing trees for zone 5a, (actually, my preference is to try for zone 4 just in case as this will be a large expenditure), researching trees not prone to snapping in high winds (goodbye native white pines which sadly are growing by the dozens in our wooded area), ditto on trees highly affected by pests such as Japanese Beetles and deer which are in great supply around here, scoping out different textures and colors so just not a boring straight line of one of a kind trees, scoping out some shorter bushes for low cover and bird and animal refuge, honing in on evergreens that can last a long winter...need to get our mostly clay soil tested as it seems some trees are picky...trying to track folks down at our state university, or an arborist or someone in the know who can recommend best windbreak trees for our area but no luck yet, so just diving down every online tree nursery and blog rabbit hole I can find to learn more. Longevity of tree, growth pattern and annual growth rate...bought several new books on trees and shrubs for Mid Atlantic region--although most are higher zone recommendations that my area...Books are great, though, to introduce new lines of research, things I need to look out for.

Still feels like I'm missing part of the equation...what am I forgetting to add into the research mix???
 
pollinator
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Location: South Shore of Lake Superior
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A few other factors I'd personally want to consider (though may not be important to you) are what trees will give me food/tea/medicine/materials, what trees will be most beneficial to the most wildlife, and what can I get the best price on. I don't have experience with planning a windbreak, as I'm on already wooded land, but those are things that are important to me.

Since you want variety, I'm guessing there will be trade-offs. Some trees may grow quickly, some may be really tolerant of high winds, some may tick other boxes but maybe none of them will be perfect. But they'll be perfect together.
 
Molly Gordon
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Location: 3,000 ft up in the mountains of the Mid Atlantic, USA
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Invest in a concentrated effort in my large garden and its veges and herbs for "food, tea and medicine".  When you have 75 mph blasts of wind coming at you in waves for far too many winter days, its more of a "keep the house standing in the long run" concern, honestly.

"Some trees may grow quickly, some may be really tolerant of high winds, some may tick other boxes but maybe none of them will be perfect. But they'll be perfect together. "  

Totally agree with you on this.  Looking into a mix of trees with various windbreak attributes rather than putting all my eggs in one basket.
 
pollinator
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check your state conservation department.  At least here in Wyoming and Colorado they sell windbreak trees at a much reduced price.  They will also have a list of suitable trees for your location.
 
steward and tree herder
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Hi Molly,
I can sympathise with your windy winters, 70-90mph is quite normal in winter for us too. We`re much milder though - more like zone 8 or 9 here but without the warm summers. It sounds like you`ve done a lot of thinking about it. For what it`s worth here`s my experience:
We planted windbreak trees in early 2008. I used a three row, alternating Long term, Quick growing, and shrubby underfill trees along the rows, with as many mix of species as I thought would be likely to stand a chance.
Because our house is pretty close to the road, I wasn`t able to position the windbreak in an optimum spot, so just did the best coverage I could. Since we are generally windy all year, I also wanted windbreaks through my coppice area to protect the regrowth. We are now starting to really get some shelter and benefit from these trees.
Is your wind direction pretty constant? Ours is generally from the SW, but we can get storms from any direction, and in mid spring cold drying winds from the North and North East do damage to new growth and blows on the front of the house where all the doors and windows are.
Consider the sun as well. For me blocking the wind from the South means blocking the sun. For growing areas however, the upwind side of the windbreak can make a bit of a suntrap on a nice day.
Many people here don`t bother plant trees. They either want the views from the house, or don`t want to look that far ahead. It is a long term proposal. The salt laden winds make a challenging growing environment.
Our other problem is our soil: shallow, silty over bedrock just a few inches to a couple of feet deep means the roots of trees are not that secure. Some of my faster growing trees (not always the ones I expected) fall over in the wind. some carry on growing, others rock around and die.
The rather acid and almost constantly wet conditions restricted the tree choice further.
In the coppice tree field I`m getting more fond of deciduous trees that are less likely to get damaged in winter wind. They still protect nicely during the growing season when winds tend to be lighter.
Generally I wish I had planted more local provenance trees. Because I bought my trees from a forestry source this was compromised. If you would consider delaying planting by a year to source local seed it really could pay off by quicker growth and more robust trees.
Actually planting the trees is not a trivial exercise. Give them as much protection as you can from critters - or plant twice as many to allow for losses. There is also certainly a significant growth benefit here for keeping grass away from the young trees. I`m afraid I never found a good way of achieving that though.
I wish you luck and hope that my ramblings are of some use to you!
 
pollinator
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I would look into the various native trees of the Shenandoah mountain range for inspiration.      Eastern Hemlock, sugar maples, and various native oaks could be used.  Add in food producing  trees and support trees in the mix like black walnut, mulberries,  and black locust.  To get production while the trees are growing add fruit and nut shrubs  shrubs like blueberries and American Hazel nuts.   All of these plants grow here in 5a New Hampshire and don't have shallow roots like birch and Eastern white pine.  

 
Molly Gordon
pollinator
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Location: 3,000 ft up in the mountains of the Mid Atlantic, USA
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Dorothy Pohorelow wrote:  check your state conservation department.  At least here in Wyoming and Colorado they sell windbreak trees at a much reduced price.  They will also have a list of suitable trees for your location.



Dorothy:  good idea and I was dialed up to use them because of the great prices, but sadly that department in our state has been shut down. Happened shortly after covid started and not sure how that could be related other than the funds are being used elsewhere. There has also been a federal program that has been involved in work crews replanting trees so it's possible they just plan on using federal funding to accomplish the same thing in reforesting. However, they no longer sell trees to the permies, which is putting a huge dent in my tree planting budget.
 
Molly Gordon
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Kate Muller wrote:I would look into the various native trees of the Shenandoah mountain range for inspiration.      Eastern Hemlock, sugar maples, and various native oaks could be used.  Add in food producing  trees and support trees in the mix like black walnut, mulberries,  and black locust.  To get production while the trees are growing add fruit and nut shrubs  shrubs like blueberries and American Hazel nuts.   All of these plants grow here in 5a New Hampshire and don't have shallow roots like birch and Eastern white pine.  

Good to know on 5a, thanks so much. The plan I am formulating is to concentrate on multiple semi-circles of fast growing, non-deciduous trees and bushes surrounding  the windiest sides of the house, far enough away to be safe and not block out the sun. We lease out about 30 acres for pastureland and the plan is to continue farming around these 3-4 deep tree swaths. The income on the lease is minimal and the long-range wind effect on the new house is my main concern.

We are in prime hunting country where any animal that moves, in season or out, seems to be shot. And while I do understand the need to keep the deer population down, we like to mostly peacefully coexist with about 2-3 dozen white tail deer, red foxes, the occasional bear, nightly coyotes, the cutest ever cottontail bunnies, and whatever other animals that wonder onto our property for food and sanctuary. Food producing areas like my large garden are fenced in--so far quite successfully. A large, fenced orchard is also being planned and that's where berries and nut trees will need to live if we are to garner any food from them first!

Question: do you have any experience in using the eastern white pine? It just kills me I have hundreds of small saplings at hand but can't use them in this project. Are they usable in a tree break if they were surrounded by stronger trees that could anchor their root system as well as provide protection on the upper tree from snapping off?  That's a theory I think I may try out. We rarely get any kind of wind at all from the east. It just doesn't come from that direction, or we are more protected from that direction since our property is fairly close to the base of the mountains on that side of our narrow valley.

 
Kate Muller
pollinator
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I don't have any experience with white pine other than a few of them randomly growing in my back yard.   My only experience with non deciduous trees was trying to grow a few Balsam Firs for Christmas trees.  They all died.  

Have you looked at White Spruce?  https://www.fedcoseeds.com/trees/white-spruce-440  

 
Molly Gordon
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Nancy Reading wrote:Hi Molly,
I can sympathise with your windy winters, 70-90mph is quite normal in winter for us too. We`re much milder though - more like zone 8 or 9 here but without the warm summers. It sounds like you`ve done a lot of thinking about it. For what it`s worth here`s my experience.

Thanks, Nancy, I enjoyed reading your post. Sun is most definitely a factor I want to consider in my windbreak planting. We moved from California to the eastern part of the US and I've worked hard to use a lot of wonderful, warm colors in the house to keep us cozy and happy throughout the damp, windy, snowy winters here. There will be lots of calculating tree height vs possible loss of sunlight into the house. We shocked the locals when we built a house with tons of windows to let the light in. Don't want to lose that light in the future.  

Our wind is not constant, just rather dramatic when it is full on 75-80 mph in winter storms. Worse are the sudden gusts that just slam into the house. Fortunately a very strong, well built house. I do have access to local trees and am exploring that as a first option. This is a very rural area we have chosen to move to with any real civilization an hour to several hours away. But I'm finding there are nurseries tucked away here and there if you search them out. Ironically, we are on mostly flat, almost always green pastureland surrounded by ever continuous tree filled 5,000 ft mountains.  

As far as critter damage, yes, the deer are an issue with that. My husband planted a dozen or more small trees last year as the start of a break. Rarely watered them, planted in a too wet area in the winter, and the deer nibbled away...now he's down to one surviving tree. That's why I'm taking on this project. My plan is to use heavy but loose garden netting attached to metal stakes to surround the trees and bushes until they are of sufficient age to be own their own. Also selecting "deer resistant" ones is my very first criteria. Since we will be eventually blocking out what is known as "the best mountain views in the valley" I want the windbreak to not only be effective, but to look nice with various greens and grays in the trees and reds and yellows in the undergrowth bush area. It will be a real trade off in views as we are enjoying the beautiful autumn colors in the mountains and closer trees on neighboring land right now. I comfort myself with the fact a wind break a windbreak will be a savior to our structures,  peace of mind to the winter winds, and a bit more privacy as we do have neighbors and a well-used road a ways off but still too close for my comfort.  It will be nice to block those out in the years to come.

Yes, your "ramblings" were of use, thanks!  It is wonderful to bounce ideas off others. Windbreaks aren't really needed here as so few people are blessed with the amount of open space and flat land we purchased here. And, I've yet to come across any person or organization who has the knowledge of what is best for our area, or isn't just wanting to sell me whatever they can. So, before next spring planting, I'm gleaning as much information and resources as I can to build a matrix of possible trees and plants...and then cull that down to just a few. Call me silly but I want a cohesive look to the property, not a hodge podge of various types of trees, etc.  I have a 3 ft stack of tree/bush/landscaping/deer and pest resistant books specific to the Mid Atlantic area, or at the least, the eastern side of the U.S.  I'm perusing as well. The thing that is sticking out in my mind is a line in one of them to plant as Mother Nature already has: local trees and plantings, as well as in my case, matching the rolling, round topped various ranges of mountains, rounded pines and firs, rounded oak tree, etc. look...as opposed to the upright Italian cypress one of my neighbors has. I now understand why it looks so incredibly out of place in all the rounded hills, mountains, tree shapes, and leaf shapes here. Am a firm believer the comfort level in and outside your home makes a difference in your own view on life and makes your guests feel so very welcome.

 
Molly Gordon
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Kate Muller wrote: Have you looked at White Spruce?  https://www.fedcoseeds.com/trees/white-spruce-440  



I was very hot on white spruce until I joined a conifer blogsite and was advised our summertime temps are too much for conifers and why several people were complaining theirs were dying in same zone as mine. I see from the white conifer tree listing you included it notes it is a "boreal" tree growing in zone 2 from Alaska to Newfoundland.

But I'm glad you included this because it has got me thinking. I keep saying I'm in zone 5 but probably will only buy trees for zone 4 "just in case" for the cold. Maybe I'm going about this all wrong as zone 4 is probably milder summers. We are up in the mountains and get late summer heat up to the low 90's...probably more in the years to come. Plus, having moved from about sea level altitude to 2,500 ft, the sun seems so intense here. I certainly sunburn a lot faster and tender young trees would as well. Maybe I need to stick to zone 5ish trees.
 
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If you're looking for ways to protect an area from the wind, windbreaks and landscaping can be a great option. Windbreaks are typically made up of rows of trees or shrubs that are planted in a way that breaks the flow of air. This can help reduce wind speeds and limit erosion.

Landscaping can also be used to create a windbreak. strategically placing bushes, fences, or walls can help deflect wind and provide some protection. If you're not sure where to start, there are many resources available online or at your local nursery that can help you plan and design a effective windbreak for your needs.
 
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