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Planting a 2.5 acre forest, need cheap trees recommendations for these specific species

 
pollinator
Posts: 683
Location: Ohio River Valley, Zone 6b
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So I'm planting this small forest, it is boggy in places. There is a riparian area. I've selected these species at the suggestion of my state's Dept of Nat Resources, and based on my needs.

% = plant less than 100
*= plant 100
** = plant 200 and so on
# = chop and drop, inocculate with fungi

::Copse Timber Trees::
American Hybrid Hazel ***
American Hybrid Chestnut *
River Birch  %

::Conifer Timber Trees::
Bald Cypress %

::Deciduous Timber Trees::
Shagbark Hickory %
Honeylocust *
Hybrid Poplar *
Red Maple %
Sugar Maple %
Osage Orange %
Silver Maple %
Swamp White Oak %
American Sycamore %
Hardy Pecan %

::Useless but pretty Trees::
Redbud %
Dogwood %

::Chop and Drop Trees::
Quaking Aspen % - #
Pin Cherry %

::Shrub Layer::
Camelia japonica *
Honeyberry/ Haskaps **
Blueberry *
Thornless Cloudberry %
Lingonberry *
Cranberry ***
PawPaw %

::Vine Layer::
Grapes %
Virginia Creeper %
Hops %

::Herbaceous Layer::
Ostritch Fern *
Watermint *
Wild Ginger (not really ginger) %
Violets *
Lupine %
American ginseng *****

::Fungi::
Turkey Tail *
Reishii *
Shiitake *
Portabello *
Morel *
Winecap *

::Aquatic Plants::
Cattails *
Arrowroot *
Wild Rice **
Native Rivercane %


There are a considerable number of plants I have already sourced. These are what's left. This is less than half of the species.
 
pollinator
Posts: 294
Location: Virginia,USA zone 6
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You might want to check with your state's department of forestry.
This is what is available here in Virginia; I've planted hazelnuts, american plum, juneberry, and chinkapins. They do sell out of state.


https://www.buyvatrees.com/
 
Posts: 1041
Location: In the woods, West Coast USA
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So not sure what zone you are in or where you are...as far as day length....

What about a food forest?   Looks like there's some good nut trees/fruit  shrubs on that list.

I beg to differ, Redbuds fix nitrogen and bring in early pollinators....other nitrogen-fixing native ground covers are good.  Other nitrogen-fixing trees that can be coppiced and their cuttings turned into mulch.

Native plants for pollination and habitat.

Blackberries, raspberries, asparagus, garlic and green onions (wild or not)

Daffodils and asparagus for stopping gophers

Paw Paws need to grow up in an understory, so plant them after the canopy is mature, or keep them covered with sheer curtains or a white sheet to create shade.



 
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Hmm, dogwood, that would be some Cornus species, right? Not sure it applies to all of them, but some at least have a very hard, strong and extremely dense wood. (Cornus means horn, refers to the properties of the wood). I think the wood of C. mas is so dense it sinks in water, even when bone dry. Something like that could have its uses. Some species also have edible fruit.
 
pollinator
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I'm also trying to place what part of the country you live in, because the plants you bring up are all over the place- plants from Canada, the deep south, Asia, Africa. I'm assuming deep south, just because of the cypress?

I think we'd be better able to help if we knew what state you lived in, at the very least.
 
Ruth Jerome
pollinator
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Location: Ohio River Valley, Zone 6b
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To D Tucholske:

Ohio River Valley, on the Ohio side. Honey Locust is found in Africa, but also North and South America. It has a wide range.

To Eino Kenttä:

I had no idea dogwood was so dense. I will have to see if it makes a good Cornu (a nordic trumpet).

To Cristo Balete:

It's a food forest, sort of. It's a Forage Forest. There's lots of food besides the obvious things like fruit and nuts. Asparagus, ferns, pine cambium, pine nuts, the inner part of green pine cones is good roasted, all of the water plants are edible, and so on. I don't like persimmons, but I've got about 400 of them. Mostly for their wood which is blonde ebony. There's the edible parts of the birch too. Acorns and tanbark (tanning leather not eating) from the oak. Maple leaves and sap are edible. Not just from sugar maple. Sassafras has medicinal value, just be careful not to habitually consume it because of the saffrole oils. Rivercane I'm planting next spring has edible shoots, and the wood is very useful. It's a native North American Bamboo. So not invasive at all. Farmers destroyed the canebrake ecosystems to give cattle more land. I plan to make a small canebrake on my land with the 3 local varieties of the Arudinaria genus. Several kinds of reptiles and birds require them to thrive. One of which is locally endangered, the Canebrake Rattlesnake. And it might help to decrease the local rodent population. I do eat snakes. If someone accidentally runs over a snake, they know to bring it to me so it doesn't go to waste. The meat is sweet and oily. I rather like it. Oh and about animals, I plan to raise turkey, possibly rabbits, and possibly quail in the forage forest. I'll let them go feral inside the 6 ft tall fence and hunt them to harvest. I have several goals, so I'll only selectively harvest ones that aren't good to breed for food forest fowl. Wrong color, too friendly, bad at hiding, too stupid, and so on. The resulting breed of turkey should be able to hold its own in a food forest without human intervention, feeding, or protection. And they should have varied genetics to allow for adaptation to new environments when I sell them as an extra hardy breed for the STUN* agricultural approach.

*STUN = Sheer Total Utter Neglect, Nature works best when we get out of the way and stop messing with stuff.
 
D Tucholske
pollinator
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I completely missed you replying back to me. It was the watermint that's from Africa that got me.

I'm from northeast Ohio, so I can give you a good list of our Native plants. I'll "*" anything edible:

Pines:
White, Pitch, Shortleaf, Eastern Red Cedar*

Bushes:
Buttonbush, Blackhaw Viburnum*, False Indigo, New Jersey Tea, Eastern Sweetshrub, Sand Cherry*, American Holly, Wild Highbush Blueberry*, Eastern Prickly Gooseberry*, Red Currant* (NOTE: These last two plants are dangerous around pine trees without certain extreme precautions.)

Fruit/ Nut trees:*
Plum (I can't quite remember the species that would be in southern Ohio, but I think it's different than what I would be planting up here), Virginia Persimmon, Pawpaw, Common Hackberry, Black Cherry, Creek Plum, Serviceberry, Butternut, Black Walnut, Beech

Groundcover:
Wild Cranberry*, Trillium, Eastern Skunk Cabbage, American Lovage (Ligusticum Canadense)*, Canadian Honewort*, Bleeding Hearts (Dicentra Eximia), Jack in the Pulpit*, Purple Pitcher Plant (var. Purpurea), Oblong Leaved Sundew, Ramps*, Meadow Garlic*, Hogpeanut*

Vines:
Hops, Maypop*, American Bittersweet, Virginia Creeper, Greenbriar*, Wild Cucumber (hard inedible, sadly), Indian Potato*

Water:
Wapato*, American Lotus*

A lot of what you put up is good, but I'm not 100% on a lot of it. I'd also recommend trees that do well with water, like Black Willow, Kentucky Coffeetree or American Sycamore, though it'll take a while for two of those to get established. I think there's a trick to planting the Coffeetree seeds also. You can't just put they in the ground, you need to scuff them up with a file beforehand, or something.
 
D Tucholske
pollinator
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T be more precise, I don't know if you'll be able to get the lingonberry, cloudberry or Haskaps & to grow that far south, or the Cypress & Pecans to grow that far north. I don't know how the African watermint or Japanese Camellia would affect anything, as I've never heard of either before.
 
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