Mulberry cutting rooting timing

Following the excellent advice on https://permies.com/t/192682/Mulberry-planting-gender-dilemma, I have located someone nearby with a couple of fruiting mulberry trees to get cuttings from. The general advice on the internet seems to be that it is easier to root from new growth softwood than from hard wood. I'm in Zone 5b, so I'm guessing it would mid-June at least before I can get some new growth from the parent tree. It seems it will take 2-3 months at least for the cutting to root and put out enough growth to be strong enough to be transplanted to its permanent location. I'm wondering if by then it will be too late into fall. Will it reduce the tree's chance of surviving winter? Is it better to take a chance on hardwood cutting from the dormant parent and get the process started sooner? (It's not someone I know very well, so I don't feel so comfortable asking for hardwood cuttings first and then softwood, which of course would be the safest route.)

I don't have answers for you, but Akiva's article on rooting mulberrys may increase the your chances of success.

Good luck!

I took some branches the local electric company cut off a tree and chopped them up into small section of all diameters and shapes. I then pushed them (65-70) pieces into the ground under a mature Linden tree in early February. It is now 1 April and they are sprouting leaves. I just kept the ground moist to wet but never flooded. I also cut some branches off my own tree in late February and cut those down into lengths of 15 to 20cm having atleast two buds mostly 3 or 4 and diameter 10-13mm as per some instructions for sericulture in India. I planted about 100 of these in rows of 4 or five in about 1.5 inch of potting soil in a flower trough. I planted another 100 of none comforming smaller diameter twigs no more than 20cm long in another trough.
The sections planted in the troughs were kept in water for any thing from a few hours to others from the original electric company branches of 3 weeks. These were dipped in rooting powder Indole Butyric Acid (IBA) then push into 1.5 inch of potting soil. Every day I sprayed the two troughs to keep the twigs wet. Our cats kept getting in the troughs or pulled the twigs out from the side. Within a week most if not all the trough twigs produced leaf and male blossom. However the soil in the troughs got dry and the contant disturbance did not help.
So I recommend just pushing  any diameter short sharp branch end into some garden soil out of direct sun that you can easily keep damp moist or wet. Success rate looks to be about 60 out of 65-70 many had no buds but still pushed out leaves! 1 inch diameter is no problem just keep the above surface length short under 25cm. Best done when the braches have no leaves. Success rate on the indoor troughs so far zero roots, the cats keep looking for me!
It does not really freeze here at worse we get down to -2C air temp for 2 night of the year. A false Spring came in mid March 20-27 deg C followed by a cold week. Now its warm and wet most trees have young leaves including the grape vines.