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Winter Squash sizes/culls? (Maxima & Moschata landraces)

 
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Location: Illinois, Zone 6b
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Is grouping my seed mixtures by fruit size S, M, L, XL a worthwhile endeavor in a OP landrace?  

How do you seasoned squash growers approach the question of what gets culled from your seed saving pile?

I'm working with the seeds of around 100 OP Maxima & Moschata (1 Mixta!).  I know probably ~40% are known varieties (mothers), but since they are OP, I'm generally treating them all like crosses anyway.  I do jot down some descriptive notes of each one such as size, skin color/type, general family type, & flesh color.  Once the last of the seeds are dry & ready to pack away, I'll be faced with the decision of how to organize my massive seed stash.  Ideas?

 
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Location: Cache Valley, zone 4b, Irrigated, 9" rain in badlands.
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I organized my moschata squash into one landrace. The first primary selection criteria is ability to produce in my garden. The second primary selection criteria is taste (which included high carotenes). Then I select for 85% necked squash, and 15% other shapes. I select for weight between 5 to 15 pounds. I combine all seed from all fruits after they have passed the above criteria.

I organized my maxima squash into several landraces.

1- Buttercups weighing 2-4 pounds with fabulous flavor.
2- Kabocha, banana, and Hubbard types weighing 8-10 pounds (medium).
3- Same as the previous, but weighing 2-4 pounds (small).

I don't have any use for squash that are too heavy for easy handling, and I don't have any use for squash under 2 pounds.

 
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cy, in your situation i’d be growing all like-species squash together for a few years to really get the genetics mixed a bit. after that i’d start worrying about culling and making groups by size etc.
 
Cy Cobb
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Thanks Joseph,

I'm comfortable mixing my moschata since the types I have are all fairly similar inside.  My moschata squash are primarily comprised of fairytale type, cheese wheel type, & globe shaped Dickinson types of mostly medium to large sizes (I don't have weights).  I do have one necked butternut type I've come across, but it is not large like the pensylvania dutch types I've seen.  I did try cooking it a couple different ways, but I think it was too far gone, as it tasted a bit "funky" to me.  I assume that was due to outdoor exposure.  

As far as the Maximas, I have learned that I favor the dry orange flesh that the more blocky flat pumpkins like Blue Jarrahdale offer.  There are many "pumpkins" of different colors, skin types, size, & weight that fit this flesh type I've found, and am comfortable mixing those together.  I do have a variety of hubbard hard-skinned types that I may mix together to see how they do.  I also have Candy Roaster, huge smooth white globes that are 50-60 lbs., but pale fleshed, and Turban types that I thought about leaving out of the mix for the time being since they don't have the same dry orange flesh.  I'm not real familiar with buttercup types, but I am sure I have some in the seed stash.

I did get lucky and found a very large green striped cushaw at the dump, so that's my one Mixta.  

I do hope to do some trading with others in the future & expand my seed genetics, but I think I'm off to a decent start.
 
Cy Cobb
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Thanks Greg!  For some reason I didn't see your response earlier.  I think there is definitely value in that.  I'm just hesitant to introduce the turban types in since that might be a trait I don't want to have to weed out later.  I'm considering a separate line for Turban type since they are different enough, and I have a fair number of larger squash to cross.  Still learning how to best use them though.

 
Cy Cobb
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Another thing I've noticed, even in some crossed Maximas, is the skin type.  Some skins have very hard like calcified skin that shatters when struck.  I've learned these are best broken open for roasting by dropping on concrete.  It's very effective, and requires no tools.  While this trait seems very durable, and maybe even desirable for storage, I did notice that where the bumps get abraded is prone to inviting surface mold.  Now, I haven't yet stored ones I've grown myself to see if proper handling improves this (assuming it would).  

Is there a skin type that has been observed to be a poor keeper in winter storage?  What have you all noticed are your best/longest keepers?

I mean, if all of your winter squash that you want to keep in storage are blemish free, what do you expect to last the longest?  Smooth hard skin, calcified shattering skin, thin soft skin, turban/cups?

 
Joseph Lofthouse
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I have selected for soft, smooth skin on maxima squash, because they are easier to use in the kitchen.

Also, the woody skin tends to be associated with woody seeds. The woody seeds take longer to germinate, which makes them less fit for my short-season garden, therefore, they tend to self-eliminate from the population, even if I were not purposefully selecting for them.

I actively select against squash with huge bumpy lesions on the skin.
joseph-squash.jpg
My favorite squash phenotypes
My favorite squash phenotypes
 
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