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Grading with a two wheel tractor

 
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There is a dozer/scraper/box blade for a two wheel tractor: https://www.earthtools.com/implements-snowremoval/dozerscraper/. To increase traction, steel/rubber tracks or wheel weights can be used (https://www.earthtools.com/tractor-implement-accessories/wheel-accessories/).

I'd like to use this equipment for gravel driveway repair, fixing ruts and stretching the time between major driveway maintenance. I might also use it for trail building on steep, forested terrain.

Has anyone tried this? Do you think it would perform well enough? Or am I expecting too much from a ~250 lb machine?
 
pollinator
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Hi Mack. Welcome to Permies!

I'm a bit skeptical regarding how much can be done with these relatively lightweight machines and blades. Packed gravel can be pretty hard to move.

But: I'm not experienced with two-wheel tractors, so I could be wrong. A lot can be done with small machines in other situations, if the operator is patient and creative.
 
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The website says:

All the snow/dozer blades are built with plenty enough strength (blade material 3/16” thick steel, with thicker replaceable cutting edges at bottom) so if you want to push gravel or dirt with them, it’s not a problem at all.



I feel the key wording is "push".

If all you want to do is push some gravel that is on the surface and if you are a strong guy then it might do what you want.

We have a full size tractor that we use the box blade to scrape the ruts out of the road.
 
Douglas Alpenstock
pollinator
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The manufacturer offers both "push" and "pull" blades. In this context I suspect a "pull" blade will actually work better.
 
Mack Flood
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It's one blade that can be quickly configured for either "push" or "pull". Pull position with the box blade kit looks best for gravel driveway repair.

I need to try fixing a couple of problem areas using hand tools. I think it's always best to start that way, if only as a learning exercise.
 
Douglas Alpenstock
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The blade seems rather expensive to take a gamble on.

Are you in farm country? Perhaps you could scrounge up a well-used single section of diamond harrows. These have a hardened steel tooth at every joint, and you can drag them up and down a gravel driveway to break up the packed material, and then flip them over to level with. Old ones aren't worth much more than their scrap metal value to the farmer, since the teeth are partly worn down and rusted on, but they might be gold to you.

diamond-harrows-section.png
*more shiny than usually seen in the field
*more shiny than usually seen in the field
 
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Many years ago I had a 6hp Troy Built Horse. The blade I got with it was great for snow.  
It could work with small amounts of gravel.  It was useless for driveway repair.
 
Mack Flood
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I decided that a walk behind tractor is not the right tool, even for minor driveway repairs, due to weight and traction limitations (gravel is slippery and sets up very hard). Hoping for more was a long shot in the first place. I've been looking for all the ways I might be able to use a BCS 853, since I am thinking it would be a good fit for the scale and terrain I'm working with.

Thanks for the ideas!
 
pollinator
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Mack there is a lot to building driveways properly, and everybody is correct with their comments from their experience.
I have been a road builder as a Civil Engineer and have done a number of driveways with a mixture of equipment.
Generally the heavier the machine the easier the work.
BUT, I have worked in a variety of places with only spades to heavy machines and I would suggest the following without photos.
1 aim to finish with a slight rise in the middle of the road
2 aim to have the drains on the side of the road shaped so water does not rush down a slope
If you have hand tools , a barrow or a trailer;
3 with 40mm aggregate only, no fines, fill deep holes and channels up to the shape you want
4 study run off areas to get them correct
5 introduce say 20mm road base over the top to complete the shaping and use traffic to compact it
6 Enforce 15kph on you drive otherwise it will get wrecked
7 If you can afford it, have a truck spread a cover layer of say 20mm gravel about 50mm deep and use a speadder bar behind almost anything to keep the shape regularly.
That is what I do on my 400M long driveway in a dry climate. 18 inches rainfall
 
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