• Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education skip experiences global resources cider press projects digital market permies.com pie forums private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • Nancy Reading
  • Carla Burke
  • r ranson
  • John F Dean
  • paul wheaton
  • Pearl Sutton
stewards:
  • Jay Angler
  • Liv Smith
  • Leigh Tate
master gardeners:
  • Christopher Weeks
  • Timothy Norton
gardeners:
  • thomas rubino
  • Jeremy VanGelder
  • Maieshe Ljin

Breathable buildings in wet climates

 
Posts: 81
Location: South Central Alaska Zone 4a/b
29
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I have read through this thread https://permies.com/t/44483/Breathing-Walls-George-Swanson-Oram regarding keeping buildings breathable.

We live in a temperate rain forest more or less, with a long winter. "From December 1925 to April 2023, the average 12-month total precipitation was 61.7 inches" "From December 1925 to April 2023, the 12-month average temperature was 32.7°F" (National Centers of Environmental Information).

Many of the natural building methods I have read about on permies seem (at least on the surface) to be most suited to more arid environments (like Montana). In those environments, keeping things dry, and drying out a wet building is relatively simple. But when everything in the environment is damp most all of the time... then what?

The only info I have found on historical building methods for my particular area is the Barabara, which is basically a variation of a pit house (this takes great advantage of thermal mass, but I have a hard time imagining the building to be very dry), and later the log buildings. From what I have gathered, the Barabaras did not often last very long, and didn't need to since the people living in them were relatively nomadic and they were simple to construct. The log buildings have a longer life span, but rot can still be a hazard.


So. How do we construct healthy buildings that breathe in very wet environments?

Any permies out there with ideas, experience, research on this topic?
 
steward and tree herder
Posts: 8374
Location: Isle of Skye, Scotland. Nearly 70 inches rain a year
3972
4
transportation dog forest garden foraging trees books food preservation woodworking wood heat rocket stoves ungarbage
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hi Eloise, You could look at techniques from the UK (my rainfall is fairly similar to yours). Indigenous techniques here vary from cob, to drystone walls.
I gather the use of lime mortar rather than cement is one way of increasing the breathability of walls, whilst still maintaining a waterproofness. Your climate is quite a bit colder and I don't know whether that would be a problem for lime mortar.
 
steward
Posts: 16058
Location: USDA Zone 8a
4272
dog hunting food preservation cooking bee greening the desert
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
This is the thread that discusses that book you link to:

https://permies.com/t/43637/Breathable-Walls

Terry said, "This area of a building from what I have gathered is highly controversial and misunderstood even by the “Pro Building Scientist” many of the more popular ones have contributed to this book and are noted throughout.



https://permies.com/t/43637/Breathable-Walls

I thought other folks might find that thread interesting.
 
Eloise Rock
Posts: 81
Location: South Central Alaska Zone 4a/b
29
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Good idea, Nancy. I will do a little research on building methods in the UK.

And thanks for posting those links, Anne!
 
pollinator
Posts: 3827
Location: Massachusetts, Zone:6/7 AHS:4 GDD:3000 Rainfall:48in even Soil:SandyLoam pH6 Flat
555
2
forest garden solar
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
If I was going to build a house with minimal amount of plastic. If possible I would do Rock Gabion Walls, with a layer of cob to give it a "finish" Then I would add a roof with nice overhangs. And earthbag house also works but it has plastic bags.

Uhmm, let me know what you think of this pit house?

https://www.earthbagbuilding.com/plans/solarpithouse.htm
https://naturalbuildingblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Solar-Pit-House-PDF.pdf

UK is zone 10 to zone 8, aka warmer than Seattle, WA. But it is still a god reference source.

These guys in Alaska have some cool info
Walls: http://cchrc.org/vapor-diffusion-open-walls-study/
Solar Thermal Storage: http://cchrc.org/thermal-storage-technology/
Water-Sanitation: http://cchrc.org/pass-system/
 
Anne Miller
steward
Posts: 16058
Location: USDA Zone 8a
4272
dog hunting food preservation cooking bee greening the desert
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I like S Bengi's suggestion.

If I were building something where I was worried about mold, I would want to use mycelium insulation panels for the insulation for the walls, floors, and roof:

Advantages of mycelium over typical, conventional insulation (fiberglass/mineral wool or similar)
1) Carbon negative.
2) Far superior in creating a healthy living environment.  Mold-resistant, no toxic components/ingredients, no off-gassing.
3) Can be produced from readily available materials and agricultural byproducts at a homestead scale.
4) Biodegradable at end-of-life.
5) Stacking functions when panels are dried and put into use after one ore multiple harvests of fruiting bodies.



https://permies.com/t/mycelium-insulation
 
I am mighty! And this is a mighty small ad:
the permaculture bootcamp in winter (plus half-assed holidays)
https://permies.com/t/149839/permaculture-projects/permaculture-bootcamp-winter-assed-holidays
reply
    Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic